Forrer13

Hi guys.
I have wanted to learn about the LS family for some time now so I ordered some books and started reading. I feel like I have a pretty good basic knowledge but the more I learn the more I realize I don't know.

Last September I picked up a used 5.3LS off Craigslist for $100 and began this project. A couple of weeks later I traded the old block for a brand new one, here is where I am today:

Gen 3, 2003 New old stock 5.3 LS iron block, deburred.
Gen 3, Stock crank, balanced and polished with Speed Pro main bearings.
Gen 4, Connecting rods with ARP rod bolts and Speed Pro bearings, balanced rotating assembly to 1 gram.
Gen 4, Speed Pro 4.8 LS flat top pistons with Speed Pro rings and floating wrist pins.
Trick Flow camshaft TFS-30602001 and ARP cam sprocket bolts.
(216 duration at .050 Intake, and 220 duration at .050 exhaust and .560 lift)
Trick Flow double row roller adjustable timing chain and billet gears with Trick Flow chain dampener.
Melling standard volume and pressure oil pump.
Trick flow lifters
Reconditioned 862 cylinder heads, with three angle valve job, 2” Manley LS1 SS Intake valves, 1.55” Manley LS1 SS Exhaust valves and Trick Flow double valve springs. I am doing my own porting and polishing.
GM MLS head Gaskets and new TTY Mahle head bolts.

I dont yet know what I will be putting this engine in or even if it will be manual or automatic, but what do you guys think so far?

Next will be to determine my intake etc.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Looks like it will be good for low end power to zip around on the street. Read up on if that timing set requires clearancing on the timing cover to fit. I don't think you need an adjustable timing set, but if you install it correctly, it won't hurt. A factory LS6 intake will be a good choice to go along with the build. Take your time when doing your port work on the heads. Also you didn't mention what push rods you will be using, which I guess is a good thing since you'll want to measure your PTV and determine your push rod length when the engine is assembled.

Forrer13

I did use a double roller adjustable timing chain which came with shims to space the oil pump out. there were some minor spots where the pump contacted the front cover, but some work with the grinder fixed that.
I am working on the head porting as we speak, and have been taking my time and watching as many videos as I can find on it. I am apprehensive about removing the swirl ramp so I may clean it up but still leave some of it in place. 862 heads FYI. based on the cam base circle I have mathematically calculated my pushrods at 7.425" but I have an adjustable push rod to check that after I am done with the heads. I will also measure PTV clearance but I feel like I should be fine there.

I am leaning towards the Fitech Ultimate LS kit for the intake as I don't currently have a wiring harness or computer and I feel like I get a lot for my money with the kit, (intake, TB, injectors, harness, sensors, etc) all things I would need to buy individually.

Do you guys think the Fitech Ultimate kit is a good way to go?

Kawabuggy

iTrader: (1)

If you had not already installed it, I would say ditch the double row timing chain. It's just not necessary. There is a GREAT timing chain & sprocket set that comes with a WIDER link chain, and a torrington needle bearing on the back of the cam sprocket, with 9 way adjustable timing. I get them from my machine shop for $80 bucks. In my opinion, this set is more than capable of doing what needs to be done. I have built 3 motors over the past year, and all 3 have that same timing set, with ZERO issues so far.

That cam is going to be very mild. It will be perfect for street driving duties. I don't think it's going to have much "rumble" at idle though. You did not list the LSA though and that does play a good part in idle chop. I am in the process of swapping cams right now because the cam I chose is too mild. Keep that in mind. You never hear of people swapping to SMALLER cams.. But you hear about THOUSANDS of people going bigger.

For the money you are going to spend on the FI Tech kit, you could actually SAVE money by using a GM harness and intake manifold, and you would still have enough $$ to buy HP Tuners and do your own tuning. I have no experience with FI Tech but I'm willing to wager that it is not as precise as a GM computer that has been properly tuned can, or ever will, be. I've used GM computers, and GM harnesses on the swaps that I have done. Really straight forward. Intuitive. Everything has already been solved/resolved by some of the best engineers on the planet.

G Atsma

That cam has 114LSA, which with the duration it has gives a negative 10 degrees overlap. It might have an uneven idle, but not much if any real lope. Looks like a good cam for street use, though.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I don't like the waiting. I vote you grab an all oem engine and put it into a vehicle and start driving it right away. Build the second engine on the side while you drive the vehicle for the time being.

Otherwise you just spend months... years... putting something together... then drive it 50 minutes and something awful happens 9/10 times you are still struggling, pulling it out and doing everything twice, three times. Waiting on machine work, only to find out it was done wrong after you put miles on it and they are not responsible...

When you could have been driving years ago... with a stock engine...

Also whats with the 53 no boost? the whole point of the 53 IMO is the boost ability. Otherwise I'd say get a 427, or 513, or 602, or 735, or 855, or 982, ... +cubic inch engine... not 333 or less. its not even a big number until at least 350 lol.

G Atsma

The OP doesn't mind waiting, or you wouldn't see this thread

Not everyone boosts 5.3's. They can be made to run great NA. The whole point of the 5.3 is GM's basic truck engine, NOT boostability. SMH....

JoeNova

I think that is a whole lot of unnecessary.

1. Gen 4 rods/pistons are VERY overkill for a 5.3 that isn't going to see a ton of nitrous or boost. The gen 3 stuff is way way more than adequate.

2. That trick flow cam is fine for a slightly more than stock 5.3. It barely lopes at idle, and anything over 900 RPM it sounds completely stock (I've used SEVERAL of them).

3. The double roller, billet gears, adjustable gear, dampener, lifters, etc are all unnecessary. The stock stuff is more than adequate, especially for such a small cam. You'll likely never see any real world benefit to any of this.

4. The general idea with a budget LS build is to keep it simple. These aren't old small blocks. VERY LITTLE has to be replaced to make decent power with these.

5. You're literally 10 minutes from me.

Suncc49

Can't believe you spent so much money on a non forced induction build to be honest. My 500 bucks junkyard 5.3 cammed takes all the boost with stock gaskets,bolts etc....

Do you have around 2,500 in this engine?

Seriously stock rod bolts and re used head bolts have held on tons of engines seeing plenty of hp.....

Forrer13

Guys, thanks for all your responses.

First, the timing chain is already installed so its a done deal. It might be unnecessary but I don't think it hurts anything so moving on.

I do realize the cam is on the small side, but that's OK I want the engine to have good street manners and I am not trying to build a race engine. I am also not interested in building a boosted engine, not yet anyway. Maybe 5 years down the road after this engine is mounted in a vehicle and has a few thousand miles on it I will get the itch to upgrade, that will be phase 2. Sure I could have built some big cube engine, but this if just a fun project to keep me busy on the weekends while I learn about the LS engine. More cubes = more $$$.

Remember, I don't even know what I am putting this engine into yet and I am in no hurry I already have two perfectly fine vehicles.

I agree that some of this build is overkill but other than spending a little more than necessary it doesn't hurt anything, and if I do go turbo down the road the internals should be OK to 600HP or so. Better too much than too little I say. I have almost exactly $4000 invested at this point.

I am on the fence with the Fitech stuff. I would use the GM computer and harness but I would have to buy new (I don't trust used computers) I will need an intake, TB and injectors also. Where can I get all the stuff Fitech supplies in their kit for less than $1500?

http://fitechefi.com/fitech-uploads/...2010-20-16.pdf

JoeNova

One of the LS engines biggest claims to fame is the Cost/Output factor. At $4000, you have more money in that engine than I have in the entire 5.3 setup in my Nova, and more than the total cost of my LS swapped C4 corvette. If you want this to be a fruitful endeavor, don't spend money on things that aren't needed.

Same goes with computers. I'm fairly baffled at the idea of not trusting a stock one. I also have a VERY poor opinion on FITech stuff, but only when looking at it from a performance aspect.

Suncc49

Good street manners? These engines respond great and drive good on what you would think would be a radical cam....

Joe knows his stuff - If I was 10 minutes from him, I would be bugging him to learn more.

G Atsma

There are MANY here who would, or SHOULD, agree with you!

Forrer13

Joe, it sounds like you are the man and I am lucky to have you close by.

I don't want to spend more than necessary on this project, but I am happy to spend a few extra bucks to make sure things are reliable and safe to handle whatever I want to do with this engine. Like I said before this is just a project and I have all the time in the world to save up and learn, and I do want to spend wisely.

My head porting and polishing is coming along nicely, I will post some pictures when it is done. After my heads are finished and installed I will be working on the intake system, wiring and computer.

You guys have just about convinced me to skip the Fitech system and go with OEM computer and wiring.

Where is the best place to get a stand alone harness and computer from and what should I expect to pay?

Should I use the truck injectors that I currently have or will they not be big enough?

Do I go with a bigger TB, and what intake manifold should I use if I don't want to use the truck intake?

Forrer13

Oh, also, what do you guys suggest for roller rockers?

I am leaning towards using the OEM rocker bodies that I have with a new trunion kit. Should I use bronze bushings or needle rollers, and from who?

G Atsma

Bronze, from either CHE or Straub. The needles are more failure-prone.

Stampede4ever

JoeNova, what are your thoughts on LS7 Lifters for a mid cam, and a home port job on some 799 heads for a 6L, worth doing, or not, for a street motor?
Also, where are you located, I'm about 30 miles south of Columbus?

Thanks.

Forrer13

Are the Trick Flow lifters P/N TFS-21400002 considered LS7 lifters?

What is the difference between LS7 lifers and LS1 lifters? What makes the LS7 lifters special?