Seahawk82

Sorry if this question sucks, but it seems rather important. I just got my rotating assembly back from the machine shop and started assembling the bottom end. I put the crankshaft in and gave it a few turns and noticed that the reluctor wheel was rubbing on the main cap. Seems that 1 spot is out of whack. Is there a gentle, yet effective way to fix this or am I looking at getting a new reluctor wheel installed?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I have absolutely no experience with this sort of problem, however if it were my engine I would take it back to the machine shop and have a new wheel installed.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

You can lightly bend it back, but I would advise against praying against the cap to do it. You would want to have the crank out of the block and use 2 flat pieces of steel and squeeze them together over the small bend to spread the clamping force evenly.

The rings are an interference fit. (.007 if I remember correctly). You don’t want that ring to budge on its mounting surface. I had one come bent on an aftermarket crank and replaced it with a new factory one. It spun because the new one turned out to only be .003 interference fit. I since upgraded to a billet wheel that is welded to the crank.

If you can fix the bend, put a dial indicator on it and spin the crank to check the runout. There is a safe range of wobble that it can have before the sensor will give sporadic readings and you will be pulling it apart again. You will have to look that spec up because I just don’t remember it.

http://www.engineprofessional.com/ar...Q415_56-62.pdf

This article says more than .002 runout and to replace it, I think the factory max is .010, but someone will correct me, I will see if I can look it up.

Seahawk82

Really great info. I appreciate it! Reluctor wheels are pretty inexpensive so I may just go ahead and replace it. Piece of mind kinda thing I guess.

Seahawk82

I thought about it. This is probably the 10th time I've used them and the 3rd time they've messed something up. So I think I'll find a new shop. They are super pissy when you try to talk to them about a mistake they made...so **** em.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

If it is a crank and reluctor wheel that you plan on never changing, you may just want to upgrade to a billet wheel and have it tacked onto the crank and have them rebalance it. Shop I used rebalanced the crank for free when I had him replace the wheel. I think Callie’s now come standard with billet wheels. Then you don’t have to worry about it ever spinning off. Some people had problems with new factory ones made in Mexico. Didn’t have the correct interference fit as I mentioned above.

Seahawk82

My crank is a Callie's stroker crank. I'll make a few calls to a few machine shops tomorrow and see what's what. I wasn't sure if it was a common thing that I could easily remedy. I guess I probably shouldn't go banging on the crankshaft.

TyCZ28

If its bent its no good. Replace it. A bent reluctor is asking for problems down the line.

Seahawk82

Makes sense. Ain't nobody got time for problems down the line.

RockinWs6

Hard to find good machine shops today so most just don't give a rat azz what they turn out. We had a absolutely number 1 shop nearby years ago, you never had to tell them what should be done they knew. Too bad they long retired, now its impossible to find a good machine shop OR even a mechanics shop that really knows anything. When I have to go I tell um right what I want and how they will do it, if they give me any **** I just walk away. Eventually if you are lucky you'll find someone who gives a ****. Now a days its just too easy for any ******** to set up shop. Its not a quality world any more, all the old timers that really knew their sheet are long gone. I've seen and talked with top shops in my area and I'm disgusted trying to get anything done anymore.

Gonna buy a effin crapo plain jane boring please shoot me I'm so boring to drive car soon and forget about having any fun with my pants on. Hope you get someone who can help you. Good Luck