LS123456

Looking for suggestions on how to handle this valve tip/stem wear without pulling the heads. It is mostly affects the front two cylinders and was likely caused by a pinched oil pump o-ring from the factory. Had a cam installed at 45k to remedy the o-ring problem so I figured it only made sense to have a cam installed at the time. Problem is the mechanic who did the cam never mentioned the valve stem wear when he did the springs so I'm only making an educated guess that it existed, at least to some degree, before the cam was installed. Cam is an EPS 222/226 with Pac 1518 springs and the motor has about 80k on it now.

The mechanic who originally did the cam is no longer in business so I had use someone else to replace the springs this time. When I went to have the springs replaced, the latest mechanic told me he couldn't do it because the "valve went down while compressing the spring" (he was using air, not tdc method) and claimed it was a result of the wear on top of the valve stem. I figured the mechanic was over his head with the job and told him to just to stop and put the valve cover back on since I had never heard of such a problem. So after pulling the valve cover myself, this is what I found.

Here are my questions.........
Does it look like this is bad enough to prevent being able to change out the springs?
Are lash caps an option here?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

RB04Av

Sounds like he didn't bonk the retainers with a hammer & socket to break the keepers loose before trying to use the spring compressor.

The damage to the valve stem tips has nothing to do with it.

Personally I don't bother with air. Never has worked for me. I just bring the cyls to TDC, 2 at a time, and use rope. Too easy.

The valve stems look like a lube problem. What's your oil pressure? What do the rockers look like? Anything else look weird? (push rod ends especially)

brobinson216

iTrader: (11)

Pull the heads, those valves should be replaced. I've got a set that look the same.

Failure modes include but not limited to, valve spring setup pressure/height, cam lift, rocker geometry.

Would like to know more about the setup.

Replace those valves. You could have them ground however cost will most likely become economically more than a new set.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

You need to replace the valves and springs. I would also consider a bit stiffer spring or shims for more seat force. I would also consider larger OD pushrods to prevent flex and valve bounce.

RB04Av

Agreed; those are messed up pretty good. They're beyond just changing springs with the heads on the motor, regardless of the best way to do that task.

I'd sure be trying to figure out why that happened before just shotgunning the parts though. Seems like those should have been "enough" spring for that cam, if installed properly.

What cam was in it before?

LS123456

I am fairly confident this was a result of lack of lubrication to the front of the motor due to a pinched o-ring in the first 45k miles BEFORE the cam was installed over 30k miles ago. I think the mechanic might have just changed the springs with the cam and never mentioned the wear. I just don't know whether it has degraded since that time.

What is the downside of changing the springs and monitoring it?

RB04Av

No telling.

What caused it? Are you SURE you have identified it and now have it fixed? If not, it could happen again.

What O-ring was pinched? What do the rockers look like? What was the cam before this one?

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi ALL, I fit Lash Caps often, the valve has NO Register left on the Tip.

I would have a MAJOR CONCERN about Guide Condition ?

Lance

LS123456

The oil pump o-ring was pinched from the factory and the lifters would bleed down at idle and tick like crazy. It was fixed when I had the cam installed. The car was completely stock at that point.

Below is a response in a similar thread which fits my issue exactly.

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

Remove those heads, replace with new valves and have them set up at the machine shop. (Or, you could send them off to be ported by TEA, AI or TSP and have them put them together right and with the right parts for your setup)

I'd also look at TREND for 11/32 pushrods. As mentioned above, these tiny stock PR's can bend and pole-vault off the valves. Either replace your rockers unless they're good. A good polish might do it. But I'd opt for a set of new Bushed rockers and get rid of the stock needle bearings if you still have them.

Good luck.

EDIT: After taking a second look at those chewed up valve tips. I can't imagine your rockers are salvageable. Some of those tips have been ground down on 100% of the valve tip.

LS123456

I understand that pulling the head and replacing the valves is the best solution. No engine lasts forever so I'd like to get a few more miles out of it before pulling the head. I'm not getting any crazy oil consumption and the valve train is as loud as it's always been.

Other than pulling the heads, can I add lash caps?

Do you see anything that would prevent me from changing the springs and reattaching the keepers?

RB04Av

Not really; they seem fairly accessible.

Nobody likes spending money or doing work if they don't have to. None of us are insensitive to your desire to avoid that. However, you would run a SERIOUS risk of very short lifetime after doing this, and in the long run will probably cost more and require more labor than DOING IT RIGHT (whatever that turns out to be) at the moment.

Lash caps could be a partial solution. But keep in mind, doing that "lengthens" the valves somewhat, which will tip the rockers back, which will upset the geometry and maybe require shimming the rocker stands and/or a push rod change. It's not a one-step consequence-free get out of jail card.

But is sounds like you're just determined to change springs (for why, I can't tell; there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with them, assuming they are what you think they are) and run it anyway. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

LS123456

Only changing the springs due to mileage (35k) with the aftermarket cam. There's nothing physically wrong with them.

Karlw

iTrader: (5)

I'd be curious what the bottom end looks like if the top end was starved for oil.

RockinWs6

LET IT BE! No good reason to mess with it. They will last forever like that.