Spun Bearing? Good oil pressure.
#21
TECH Resident
Building a engine with a credit card sucks! Sit down and make a list of all parts needed, Price out each part, Save up and buy one part at a time until you have accumulated all the parts you will need, then put aside(as cash flow will allow) about 1K for all the little gotchas then proceed with your rebuild. This might take a little time but it will be rewarding because you won't have to cringe every month when Visa visits. Patience pays off...Don't mean to sound like your "Dad" but I've tried it both ways and finally figured out when you are in a hole STOP Digging...
#22
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Building a engine with a credit card sucks! Sit down and make a list of all parts needed, Price out each part, Save up and buy one part at a time until you have accumulated all the parts you will need, then put aside(as cash flow will allow) about 1K for all the little gotchas then proceed with your rebuild. This might take a little time but it will be rewarding because you won't have to cringe every month when Visa visits. Patience pays off...Don't mean to sound like your "Dad" but I've tried it both ways and finally figured out when you are in a hole STOP Digging...
At this point I'm seriously considering pulling the parts out and listing it all on Craigslist and selling it off as a roller.
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02*C5 (10-20-2021)
#23
If I were in your shoes and you are able to turn wrenches before I'd throw up my hands I'd pull the engine and tear it down. Its very possible you just lost a lifter, clean everything up and you have all your old parts. You can at least make a running car again. I wouldn't run the engine! Good Luck
#25
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Yeah I know it's not that big of a deal and plenty of people have gone through it. It's more of the money than anything. I'm having a tough time justifying spending $5k on it. I bought it for $8k a few years ago. Throwing that amount at a lower value car just doesn't seem responsible.
On the pull before it dropped HP it was 385 at the wheel. 366tq
On the pull before it dropped HP it was 385 at the wheel. 366tq
The following users liked this post:
02*C5 (10-20-2021)
#26
On The Tree
Thread Starter
What makes you think it's going to cost 5k to rebuild the bottom end? Like I said, the motor hasn't run long so it's unlikely the crank is all that trashed, same with the rods. Even if you built an entirely new bottom end, you're looking at 2k between rods and pistons, and machine work. Honestly you're looking at a few hundred bucks tops to clear up the bearing issue, assuming you do some of the work yourself. My machine shop charged me 80 to polish my crank, 200 for bearings, and 300 to blueprint the engine. They gave it all back to me and I assembled it myself (they would have normally charged 300 to assemble the shortblock).
#29
On The Tree
Thread Starter
#30
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
Yes, stuff that should not be there. You cut an oil filter open with a reciprocating saw and found metal debris. So what? Your troubleshooting thus far, as presented in this thread is insufficient to make the big decisions that have been discussed. Draining the oil, w/o further contamination, is an easy troubleshooting step to complete.
I want you to be well and have a functioning vehicle. There is no malicious intent in my response.
I want you to be well and have a functioning vehicle. There is no malicious intent in my response.
#31
On The Tree
Thread Starter
The oil seemed thick and brown. Had grime on the magnet of the drain plug. The bottom of the oil catch pan did have like 4 small metal chips in it. I havent looked in the oil for any metal yet. I see now that cutting it with a saw was dumb but would it put glitter in the oil?
I know you are helping. I take no offense. I appreciate any input from you guys.
I know you are helping. I take no offense. I appreciate any input from you guys.
#32
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
Please provide photos of oil, drain plug magnet, and debris picked up after sweeping thoroughly through the oil with a magnet of sufficient strength. Hopefully members here with much more experience than I can then provide you better assistance. Seems you were getting a bit ahead of yourself, possibly with unnecessary distress, before effectively completing some preliminary troubleshooting.
ETA
Unnecessarily harsh.
ETA
Unnecessarily harsh.
#33
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I'm out of town this week end but I did take some pics. I didn't see any metal pooling to the bottom of the jug. I poured some into a glass jar to look through. There is some sludge at the bottom of the jug. This oil was only put in after the heads and cam was in. Would it get this dark only driving it a few harsh dyno miles?
#34
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
I say $5k because that was the high end of the only estimate i could get. That was if I handed over a fully assembled engine. I'm not sure how much is involved in doing more than that yet. I am using that figure because of typical add on costs I'm expecting handing over a 17 year old engine.
5k is ridiculous. We're talking about a spun bearing here, not a brand new motor. I would guess at 2k at the MOST if you dropped the car off at a shop, had them do ALL of the work, and picked it back up. I don't know your wrenching abilities, but you can obviously save cost by doing work yourself.
#35
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Could me using a saw to cut the filter open put glitter in the oil in the filter? Im wondering if I should change the oil and let it run for awhile and check the filter again. Or would it just cause more damage? The rest of the oil doesnt show much evidence of metal. Trying to check out the minor stuff before tearing it down completely. Thanks
#36
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Using the saw put chips in the filter, prolly not glitter so much. The fact that the element is so saturated with debris is a sure sign of a bearing gone south. I personally wouldn’t start it again.
#38
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Pull it. Post up some pics of the affected bearing(s). Hopefully it’s not a cam bearing.
#39
At the end of the day this is just a hobby so putting this stuff on credit to play is definitely to your own risk and detriment.... let it sit for awhile further diagnosing when you feel at it and then payoff your old tab with that tax money that is gonna be huge next year.... Do you have the capability to do the work yourself if possible? Pull motor etc?