installing LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves in LS1 cylinder block
#1
installing LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves in LS1 cylinder block
Hello,
can I install the LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves in LS1 cylinder block to have 4.125" cylinder bores instead of the LS1 3.900" bores?
will there be engine coolant leak after installing the LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves?
any one has experience in that matter?
Abdullah
can I install the LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves in LS1 cylinder block to have 4.125" cylinder bores instead of the LS1 3.900" bores?
will there be engine coolant leak after installing the LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves?
any one has experience in that matter?
Abdullah
#3
but the LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeve has a bore of 4.125" and the LS1 cylinder liner iron sleeve has a bore of 3.900" so I will need to bore the cylinders of the LS1 block wider and more by 4.125" - 3.900" = 0.225" to fit LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves correctly in the bored cylinders of the LS1 block and after that the LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves can be installed in the bored cylinders of the LS1 block and we will have a LS1 block with 4.125" bores.
now, will the LS1 cylinder block leak radiator coolant at around the installed LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves?
because as I can remember once in the past in camaroz28.com forums there was a thread mentioned that they installed 4.125" cylinder liner iron sleeves in LS1 block and it leaked radiator coolant, looks like it leaked around the installed 4.125" cylinder liner iron sleeves.
any one has experience in that matter can help?
now, will the LS1 cylinder block leak radiator coolant at around the installed LS7 cylinder liner iron sleeves?
because as I can remember once in the past in camaroz28.com forums there was a thread mentioned that they installed 4.125" cylinder liner iron sleeves in LS1 block and it leaked radiator coolant, looks like it leaked around the installed 4.125" cylinder liner iron sleeves.
any one has experience in that matter can help?
Last edited by Abdullah; 11-12-2018 at 01:24 PM.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Hi Abdullah,
Sleeving successfully is difficult and requires precision. The LS1 block has been used for sleek but is very much is weaker than the LS2/LS3. Most companies want to use a LS2/LS3 blocks because it's better suited.
I'm not aware of an LS7 sleeve being successful put in an LS1 block. The CNC cutting has to temperature controlled with cutting fluid etc it takes a master like Steve at RED to do it correctly.
Here a older thread with lots of sleeve info.
Info on Darton Sleeves
Back in the day sleeved LS1 / LS6 blocks had a lot of failure
Typically coolant leaks, head gaskets etc.
RED - Race Engine Development is an excellent source for sleeved blocks. Steve developed the Dart on MID sleeve system if I recall correctly.
Bischoff Engine Service has also done them successfully.
Sleeving successfully is difficult and requires precision. The LS1 block has been used for sleek but is very much is weaker than the LS2/LS3. Most companies want to use a LS2/LS3 blocks because it's better suited.
I'm not aware of an LS7 sleeve being successful put in an LS1 block. The CNC cutting has to temperature controlled with cutting fluid etc it takes a master like Steve at RED to do it correctly.
Here a older thread with lots of sleeve info.
Info on Darton Sleeves
Back in the day sleeved LS1 / LS6 blocks had a lot of failure
Typically coolant leaks, head gaskets etc.
RED - Race Engine Development is an excellent source for sleeved blocks. Steve developed the Dart on MID sleeve system if I recall correctly.
Bischoff Engine Service has also done them successfully.
#5
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I would add that its easier and more efficient as well as cost effective to buy an after market block, such the Dart LS next. You can buy an assembled long block for about 5k. To sleeve an aluminum OE block is about 3 k alone, plus you need a rotating assembly, pistons, assembly and balancing. They are offered in 427 or 440 CIs and 24 or 58 tooth reluctors. Its a no brainer.
#6
I would add that its easier and more efficient as well as cost effective to buy an after market block, such the Dart LS next. You can buy an assembled long block for about 5k. To sleeve an aluminum OE block is about 3 k alone, plus you need a rotating assembly, pistons, assembly and balancing. They are offered in 427 or 440 CIs and 24 or 58 tooth reluctors. Its a no brainer.
#7
TECH Resident
Off the top of my head the eagle 427 rotating assembly is around $1,800 and RED is about $4,000 to resleeve. Then you have to add in shipping on everything. That also doesn't include any of the labor or parts needed to assemble everything. Then you really should change heads to match the displacement which is costly. I was planning on going this route myself until I saw the price of already built short blocks. Unless you need to keep it numbers matching there's just no good reason to resleeve anymore. Of course if you're in a class that requires the factory engine it's not a bad idea to have a 427 with the factory ls1 part number 😉
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#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
On a regular LS1 block, I don't believe there is enough meat to machine and press in a standard LS7 Sleeve into the block. A standard sleeve needs material to sit in.
You would need to do as mentioned and have the block machined for the darton MID sleeves. Here is an article that shows what is required. This was also done at Steves shop. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...ngine-sleeves/
You would need to do as mentioned and have the block machined for the darton MID sleeves. Here is an article that shows what is required. This was also done at Steves shop. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...ngine-sleeves/
#9
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Off the top of my head the eagle 427 rotating assembly is around $1,800 and RED is about $4,000 to resleeve. Then you have to add in shipping on everything. That also doesn't include any of the labor or parts needed to assemble everything. Then you really should change heads to match the displacement which is costly. I was planning on going this route myself until I saw the price of already built short blocks. Unless you need to keep it numbers matching there's just no good reason to resleeve anymore. Of course if you're in a class that requires the factory engine it's not a bad idea to have a 427 with the factory ls1 part number 😉
Used ls2 block $800
Darton sleeves installed $2100
Katech billet main caps $500
machine work to install pinned Katech caps, with line hone and final diamond cylinder hone $1300
Prices may vary. I’m in North Ga. Prolly add a couple hundred more actually for shipping block to Steve. Closer to $5k.
The aftermarket block with a superior oiling system seems far more appealing.
#10
TECH Resident
Steve (RED) did my re-sleeve with Darton dry liners for $2100. Unless he’s had a substantial price increase in the last year or so, I think your price quotes are high, even for the MID liners. I ended up with $4700 in my block, so I won’t go the GM block route again, unless maybe I find a free LS9 block that needs sleeving.
Used ls2 block $800
Darton sleeves installed $2100
Katech billet main caps $500
machine work to install pinned Katech caps, with line hone and final diamond cylinder hone $1300
Prices may vary. I’m in North Ga. Prolly add a couple hundred more actually for shipping block to Steve. Closer to $5k.
The aftermarket block with a superior oiling system seems far more appealing.
#11
If you want a sleeved bottom end, go big... HPR (a vendor on sister site corvetteforum) sleeves LS7 blocks and strokes them to 468ci.
https://horsepower-research.com/prod...m-468-std-deck
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ace-setup.html
https://horsepower-research.com/prod...m-468-std-deck
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ace-setup.html
#12
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I was not aware that Erik was sleeving his own blocks. Good to know. I’m a big fan of his!
#14
TECH Senior Member
You need gaskets for the bore of the engine. If the bore is larger, then yeah, you need different gaskets.
#15
TECH Resident
The wet sleeve needs special coolant and they direct you to a different water pump. You need to completely flush out the entire system when you switch coolants so it's a perfect time for a new heater core and upgraded radiator. That was my original plan anyway.