Unexpected rebuild
You can knock the ribs off the bottom of the LS6 intake or switch to the LS6 pipes. If your cheap like me (and many others) just knock the ribs off the bottom. Did that on my C5 and will be doing it again on my Trans Am.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 30
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Been a long time-I spent a good part of winter doing some port work on the 243s. Nothing crazy just getting rid of rocker stud lump, swirl ramps and cleaning up the bowl well, as well as narrowing down the guides. I just got done lapping valves and hope to have heads on this weekend. Question-I need to measure for new pushrods. I took some old lifters apart but can’t seem to get anything to go in them to make them solid. When I hold them in my hand I can’t compress them. Should old lifters be like this? Will they compress when torquing the rocker bolts?
Also got updated LS gaskets from ws6 store. Does anyone have an idea of common around the shop items that could act as a mock gasket (compressed) in order to take the pushrod measurement?
Also got updated LS gaskets from ws6 store. Does anyone have an idea of common around the shop items that could act as a mock gasket (compressed) in order to take the pushrod measurement?
Been a long time-I spent a good part of winter doing some port work on the 243s. Nothing crazy just getting rid of rocker stud lump, swirl ramps and cleaning up the bowl well, as well as narrowing down the guides. I just got done lapping valves and hope to have heads on this weekend. Question-I need to measure for new pushrods. I took some old lifters apart but can’t seem to get anything to go in them to make them solid. When I hold them in my hand I can’t compress them. Should old lifters be like this? Will they compress when torquing the rocker bolts?
Also got updated LS gaskets from ws6 store. Does anyone have an idea of common around the shop items that could act as a mock gasket (compressed) in order to take the pushrod measurement?
Also got updated LS gaskets from ws6 store. Does anyone have an idea of common around the shop items that could act as a mock gasket (compressed) in order to take the pushrod measurement?
OP, I just did a full rebuild on a LS1 with a spun bearing a few years back. I wanted the same thing as you for the most part drive-ability wise, and having good low end torque. The things I learned from my first build were that compression is your friend for those items. My first build made 435rwhp 401tq with a TSP 231/234 .643 .598 camshaft and hand ported 243s, pacesetter 1 3/4 headers, FAST 92mm .040 Costmetic Head Gaskets for 10.7 compression but didn't have near the amount of low end torque as my new build, and the drive-ability wasn't very good (shitty tuner). My new build is as follows and made 442rwhp 405tq with a smaller cam and non-ported 243s and I self tuned it with hp tuners for the most part to have fantastic mannerisms.
- Self Rebuilt SBE LS1 (Stock rods and pistons)
- BTR Stage II Cam (227/234 .613 .576)
- Stock valve, stock port 243 heads milled .030 for 11.4 compression
- FAST 92mm
- TSP 1 7/8 longtubes
- Powerbond 25% UD Pulley
- Hooker Blackheart True Duals
Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want some more details - I had a build thread, but all the pics got lost through the photo bucket stuff. I have a couple dyno vids, PTV measurements, etc.
Good Luck man!
- Self Rebuilt SBE LS1 (Stock rods and pistons)
- BTR Stage II Cam (227/234 .613 .576)
- Stock valve, stock port 243 heads milled .030 for 11.4 compression
- FAST 92mm
- TSP 1 7/8 longtubes
- Powerbond 25% UD Pulley
- Hooker Blackheart True Duals
Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want some more details - I had a build thread, but all the pics got lost through the photo bucket stuff. I have a couple dyno vids, PTV measurements, etc.
Good Luck man!
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I use these for finding ptv as well. 99% of the time, LS builds will have a piston setup that sticks up above the deck, so utilizing a spacer setup like this is necessary. Again, the valve spring shims are dead-on exactly .030”...they make tons of other sizes as well...so I use them to give me exact numbers.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 30
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Got it up and running. Runs a little rough and wants to stall when cold. My first drive I forgot to plug in the coolant sensor on the drivers side head. On this initial drive I’m assuming the computer was calling for more fuel? No stalling experienced. I have since plugged it in, and get some low power and stalling when cold. Will the computer eventually learn the fueling? I’m guessing a good tune would take care of it as well, just want to make sure the car will make it to the tuner!
stock injectors, home ported 243 heads, ls6 intake. I know the stockers are light for this combo, but my 40 lb injectors I stole out of a couple Buick Regal gs motors proved to be no good...
stock injectors, home ported 243 heads, ls6 intake. I know the stockers are light for this combo, but my 40 lb injectors I stole out of a couple Buick Regal gs motors proved to be no good...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 30
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I agree. I realize it was kind of a dumb question to ask after the fact. I am local to Fort Wayne IN if anyone has any suggestions for tuners in the area. Or I considered sending it off-wasn’t sure how much of a difference actual run time on a dyno would make, never had the experience. If it helps here is what the final list is:
stock displacement, stock rotating assy 99 ls1
243 heads I mildly ported myself
ls6 intake
stock injectors (I realize I may limit myself on potential, something I opted to do down the road in order to get car running)
high lift ASA cam from ws6store and valve springs
lid
long tube headers, ory, and loudmouth exhaust
thanks
stock displacement, stock rotating assy 99 ls1
243 heads I mildly ported myself
ls6 intake
stock injectors (I realize I may limit myself on potential, something I opted to do down the road in order to get car running)
high lift ASA cam from ws6store and valve springs
lid
long tube headers, ory, and loudmouth exhaust
thanks