tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

I would use the tsp stage 3 high lift. their kits are $569. No need to shy away from lift when it makes more power. Also keep the lsa tighter otherwise youre losing out on low range power and peak torque. i wouldn't go higher than that.
Its a 216/220 112lsa.
You start to lose any bottom end/towing power you have after that and reach a point where the peak hp it would make is never being used.
I have the stage 2 high lift in my 2500hd and i love it.
Get your oil pressure issue fixed first before anything and definitely replace your lifters.

Let me know if you have more questions

yadontmention

so with a new cam, pistons and heads done and installed, i wont be doing any work myself, do u have an estimate for what that should cost? like a loose range is good

yadontmention

thanks man will definetly look into but why do u recommend the stage 3 over the stage 2 in my case?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

If you are looking at a complete rebuild like that, give me a hollar. Our complete rebuild kits are better and less $$ than nearly all of the kits out there.
Machine work like vatting, cam bearings, and such will likely run you the most really.
Im a fan of having a true bore and surface so id recommend boring it out, but that is your call.
Our parts are the same price for stock bore or oversized.
Ballpark for all pistons, rings, gaskets, bolts, seals, bearings oil pump and timing set is $699 shipped AND comes with an LS Engine Build Book.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Most people like the sound of the stage3 more. it gives up just a little down low and only gains over the stage 2 above 5500 but they like the sound mostly.

yadontmention

thanks brother.

G Atsma

These guys will treat you right! I've loitered on these forums long enough to see that to be true.

yadontmention

im hoping to get this done around tax time of course haha so if i take this to a shop and say i want this done oil leak fixed and ready to go when i come back what kinda cost are we talking? a estimate average is ok. i really wanna know if im better off buying a 5.7l or buying a built up 5.3l and just swapping the old one out will save me money also?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

You can build a 5.3l into a 5.7 for likely less than finding an ls1 and rebuilding it. most places want 1200+ for used high mile ls1s

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Good low end torque is about two things basically -- a nice early intake valve close for good dynamic compression and good intake vacuum. The bigger the cam gets, your IVC moves later and your intake manifold vacuum gets worse.

A 5.3 is not very big so to get good low end grunt, you need to be conservative on the cam. If it were a bigger motor, say 400+ cubes, I would say cam the **** out of it and dont worry about torque because cubes will make torque whether you want it or not.

A larger cam will almost always move power band up in RPM. for towing on 35s and playing in the mud, I would cam for torque and talk to FTI or yanks about a good converter.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

This is good advice. I would even consider a 4 inch crank for a 383. Then you can run a bit more cam if you like, and that 4 inch crank will net you more torque than about any cam swap you can imagine.

yadontmention

so since i already have problems most likely involving the crank with that oil leak should i maybe get a better crank for it? and what would that include me doing to the engine to get it to run right? and are we talkin a couple grand worth of work or 5000+ kinda cost? how bout i say this can i rebuild the engine all new seals, put a new crank in it and a new cam and whatever else would go along with that for less that 5000?

G Atsma

If the seal surface of your crank looks good I would not fret over it. Just make sure it goes together per spec, and watch the details!

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Your best bet to get a better condition engine, torque, and save money may be to just swap in a used 6.0

And possibly cam it at the same time, be the best time since you could flip the motor upside down and pull the cam and not even worry about dropping a lifter, or do it straight up. But doing it on the stand would be the time to do it.

Like these guys have basically said if you want low end torque from a 5.3 stay under 220 duration and do 108-112 LSA with some advance ground in. And go ahead with the higher lift (600 ish not the 525-550 truck cams, the higher lift truck cams make more power)

There's a guy on Performance trucks that does a lot of 5.3 cams and he swears by 210-220 duration and 108-110 LSA for good low end