Total build cost for 333 LS2 including machine shop
 

Alrighty guys, finally got my 333 ls2 block and rotating assembly back and getting it assembled. Ill have pics soon. And then dyno of course

But first...build cost. I already had a spare ls2 block and a set of 4.8 rods (gen3) and 4.8 crank. I had the rods machined for a floating pin and arp rod bolts installed (more on that in another thread)
I also had a spare set of 243s so that kept costs down there.

Total cost as follows
RPMSpeed Complete rebuild kit (minus oil pump and timing set) $565
LEADFOOT 2.055 intake valves $99
LEADFOOT 1.60 exhaust valves $99
Manley 221438 nextek beehives $299
Trick titanium beehive retainers $205
Johnson 2116 lifters $579
RPMSpeed SCREAMER big bore cam (soon to be released) $389
Melling oil pump 10295 $125
N motion 7240 timing set $89
Custom manton 11/32 pushrods $149
Arp pro2000 rod bolts $99
MAX EFFORT Rpmspeed rocker arms $299

Machine work
Torque plate bore/hone $285
Clean, remove cam bearings, install new $125
Floating pin rod work with hone and arp rod bolt install $140
Check/square deck and check main bore alignment $175
Polish/check crank $75
Balance rotating assy $210
Clean/Surface heads and cut larger seats for valves with 3 angle vj and back cut on valves (replace 2 guides) $300

I kinda shot a little over budget but this was an oddball engine that ive always wanted to do for fun and i had budget room due to having quite a few parts kicking around already.

Total price $4217.

Ive got it exactly how i wanted it. I COULD go for an align hone with arp studs before i complete the bottom end, but im not sure at the monent. Its at a perfect 0 deck at the monent and doing that may change that and i really dont want to mess with it. I plan on 7500-7800 which is why i went way overkill with the valvetrain. Its no solid roller but itll be fine. The limiting factor will be the heads of course and their as cast ports for the monent. I may cut the rocker bosses off but thats all. A true real world engine would prob use some cnc ported heads but i dont want to budget that. I want numbers first then i may have a second set cncd or send these out. very likely send a second set out and use these somewhere else. Could I have spent more or less? Of course. Forged pistons would have added at least $400 to the cost PLUS ring filing and maybe more to the balancing also.
Ill be using a holley sniper ram cathedral but not their "race" style. Nick williams 102mm tb.

I decided to upgrade the oil pump and timing set as this engine will see high rpms alot and i want it to be ready and capable at 7000+

I think, for the money, ill be set up perfectly. Durable at high rpm, still stayed in a decent budget and used readily available parts. Machine work cost quite a bit but i got alot for the money there. Ive seen other places way higher than that.

What do you guys think so far?

Pics will be next week (i hope)

I can't wait to see how this thing does. I've always loved high RPM engines.

Looks like a killer setup! I like how you use a common sense approach in your parts choices; Melling 10295, HD single roller timing chain, beehive springs, etc.; just good proven basic components!

Is there an advantage to the shorter crank stroke?

Not really. just an experiment. you can take a 370 to 7500 also but it takes less effort and can use a smaller runner on a smaller cid setup mainly with a shorter stroke. Plus a 333 is an oddball and i like that.

Prob a 4th gen ls fbody. Not sure on trans. needs a 4.10 at least also of course

Cool. Looking forward to results....

Interesting engine, the 4.0 bore is nice. It would be interesting to see a standard 5.3 vs the 333 LS2 dyno comparison since they are only a few cubic inches different in size.

It will be VERY different from a 5.3l.

all motor? no power adders?

All motor.

Looking forward to this.

It likely wont be put in a car for a while.
And honestly im doing this to show you dont have to go forged to hold power. That used to be the only option.
A forged set of pistons cost more than our complete rebuild kit. That puts alot into perspective. Plus you have to gap rings also and for quite a few piston manufacturers you cant even use stock rods. So again, a whammy to the pocketbook.

Stock pistons have lasted quite a while on spray also and quite a bit as long as the rings are gapped right and use a high quality set.
Quite a few norms established that i want to try to change it seems.

While you're on here. Do your 3.8" bore L33 Floating pistons have thicker than stock crowns?
I'm looking at building up my L33 spare engine and want to use a stock piston.

This will be my next build... with 823 heads, single plane, huge cam and a high good valvetrain I wanna shoot for 8500rpm
Cant wait to see what this thing does!

I can see something like this going into a Brunton Stalker (Lotus 7 clone kit car, made for LS V8 power). With the rev range it will or should have, it will be a natural road-racer!