Good quality Rotating Assembly kit
 

Looking to do a 347 forged rotating assembly on my LS1. I have seen some kits from Texas Speed and CNC Motorsports, etc...
Which brand is worth looking into?
Cost is not much of an issue, also there is a small chance of forced induction in the far future, but not 100%.
I have a brand new top end kit so I am just looking for the bottom end.
Thanks in advance!

Also check with WS6store, another vendor/sponsor here. They bundle good parts at great prices, plus outstanding customer service.

Just curious why you need a forged bottom end?
Whats the rest of the build?
What will you be doing with the car?

I have a new top end on the engine and my bottom end has avout 150,XXX miles so I will rebuild it anyways, so why not go forged.
I have $ at the moment and I might go centrifugal supercharger over the winter.

Thanks! I will look into it

Yes I was looking at the K1 crankshaft, rods and Wiseco pistons

Callies crank & rods with Wiseco pistons have worked great.
K1 crank & rods are also great from what I read.

FWIW - If your going forged rotating assembly (crank, rods & pistons) for a 347 the cost of the parts will be about the same as a forged rotating assembly for a 383 stroker. The LS1 stroker typically won't make much more hp but will easily pick up ~ 40+ foot pounds of torque. Plus if you do another engine later LS2/LS3 later you'll have a 4 inch forged crank.

That sounds really nice but is the 383 worth it?
How much more power and torque will the engine produce? Is it worth paying for the machining? And how much does the block machining would cost if I decide to go that route?

You'll need the same machining to do a 347 or a 383. It's all the same

Gracias brother

Thanks ???

You really need to make a firm decision of what your setup is going to be. If you are sure you are going with a centrifugal supercharger which one? How much power are you looking to make with it? What fuel will you run? The big thing is what compression ratio you want. If it's naturally aspirated definitely get the 4" stroke and run more compression as well. If the centri is a sure thing you will probably want a little less compression and the stock stroke may be a better choice as well although that is often debated cubic inches aren't as necessary with boost.

LOL sorry I misspelled the question marks, they should have been thumbs up emojis. I actually made up my mind and I will do the 383 instead of the 347.
What do you think about this one? https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/eagl...stons-58t.html

Make sure you get the correct reluctor wheel for your ecu. Also get the correct dish for the compression ratio you want with the centri. Also research the piston alloy on those Mahle pistons to make sure it's the best option for boost.

Got it! Will do

Before the ls short block market got so popular I spent enough money having my 5.3 bored to a 3.905 bore with a 3.9 crank arp hardware in all holes with eagle rods wiseco pistons built including cost of pistons rods crank machine work etc. To buy a 408 shortblock ready to go. Then when it spun a bearing 3weeks later I spent more on two new rods new bearings and lifters new oil pump and turbo since it put shaving through all of it to buy a set of nice trick flow heads. But instead I have 3.9 bore 3.9 stroke gen 3 iron block motor with stock heads so buy smart research and get a warranty because most machine shops around here that u can afford u dont want to use and the good ones charge more than u can afford and more than Thompson motorsports or texas speed sell there's for. End rant

Thanks for the advice on shops. I know most of them aint worth trusting at all, that's why I will be doing it my self, all except the machining

383 LS1 strokers using the same top end package as a 347 LS1 will make about the same peak horsepower. However, the 383 LS1 stroker will typically make 35 to 45 more foot pounds of torque. The 383 LS1 stroker torque curve will be fatter.

The cost of machine work and labor ends up being about the same with the 383 LS1 and 347 LS1 if care is taken picking out the 383 rotating assembly.

In my experience with having my 383 LS1 stroker built using the Callies Compstar crank, Callies rods and Wiseco pistons there wasn't any extra expense as far as extra machine work, labor etc. The Callies stroker crank & rods are designed to work with little if any extra block clearancing required. Likewise with the Wiseco pistons. It's my understanding that this is also true of the K1 crank & rod package and it was designed with the Wiseco pistons in mind.

I'm not a fan of the Eagle LS1 stroker crank based on what I've read over the years and what my engine builder told me in 2008. The Eagle cranks typically required more work to balance and sometimes needed work to get in suitable shape to use. The Forge quality was good. Things may have changed but I suspect the $100 saved with Eagle cranks lower cost will be spent in extra machine work or labor and likely a bit more.

I would contact Texas Speed and or Brian Tooley Racing or other large vendor and ask BTR about a K1 stroker kit or Callies stroker kit with the matched Wiseco pistons. Some of the big time sponsors can get Callies to rough balance the crank for the set up according to what I've read here on LS1TECH.

I have two LS stroker neither burn oil nor do they have piston rock issues. Both have Wiseco pistons and Callies cranks. I'm sure the K1 set up is also excellent. My NA LS1 stroker has 11.3 to 1 compression not real boost friendly unless using E85.

I'm not sure what a NA 383 LS1 stroker would be like with a 9 to 1 compression. It would shine with boost for sure but probably not while just NA.

If your possible forced induction plans include a a lot of boost with a Procharger or other crank driven supercharger, I would want to step up at least one level in crank quality from what is being discussed. Crank driven superchargers put an incredible amount of stress on the snout of the crank. Personally, I'd want a Callies Dragon Slayer level of quality. Others may have different views.

​​​​​​​Best wishes with your engine build.