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went around a corner, floored it. truck went into first gear, got to about 4k and heard a huge explosion, truck wouldn’t move any more, speedometer stopped working, ABS/ BRAKE light are solid on and “service brake system” is on the dash.
free towed it behind my friends truck in neutral (engine still runs) and no speedo.
truck still ticks BTW. it runs great. no CEL just brake light/ ABS light on and no speedometer.
the tranny was rebuilt in july of 2018 with HD parts.
possible flexplate catastrophically failed?? haven’t had time to look at it just wanted some opinions. if it was the flexplate all along that could be why the ticking has gotten worse, and it just gave.
It still ticks. shop screwed me out of 2500$ too. damn shame. serving my country and still this guy screws me out of 2500$ by putting in a junkyard transmission. he’s a POS. still ticks, but gonna remove TC bolts and slide the converter back and start it. if I understand correctly, if the noise stops it was the torque converter bolts, if it doesn’t change pitch or sound at all, it’s something internal or something else, and if it changes pitch then it’s more than likely the flexplate. Sound about right? i’ll keep y’all updated. attached is a pic of the shitty trans he put in. still pissed.
Also, I had some leaks in my exhaust past my header, and I had those fully welded up. I was hoping that was the cause for the ticking, but it wasn’t. When I took off my heads about three months ago to do the lifters thinking that was the problem, I got all new gaskets and all new exhaust manifold bolts. So I know it’s not an exhaust leak, or I don’t think it is .
Also! i have a vibration when the TC is locked up ( I have the truck tuned so there’s no torque converter slippage, it’s either unlocked or locked. I did this to prevent excessive heat. ) going 70-85 mph. normally I would just acclimate this to it being the tires, but after doing a little bit more research I’ve seem to notice that the torque converter can cause this. Along with the noise it just further made me believe it may be loose flex plate bolts or loose torque converter bolts. any ideas or recommendations or tips would be extremely helpful!
TC bolts were tight. definitely top end. can hear it clear as day. sounds like right in the valley. definitely lifter noise. i get 40psi cold start, and it stays right around there once warm.. I’ve already replaced the oil pickup tube o ring, and i used the correct thicker one for my application. My question is the would the next logical step be replacing the oil pump with a melling 10296 high volume/pressure pump and re replacing the oilpickup tube o ring? that’s the only other thing i can think of.
got an update on the ol LQ9. decided to finally rip the lifters out and do a cam swap. I had a Texas Speed stage 2 Low Lift truck cam (218/224 .550/.550 112) in it and i splurged and got a BTR Stage 4 Truck cam (224/230 .553/.553 111+2). all lifters that i had previously replaced were spot on and not damaged at all. pulled out the cam and it had a small nick (pic included) and i’m not sure if that was the cause. went to fire it up and it won’t idle, so it needs a tune. i could get it to run by giving it gas, but the longer duration in the cam is freaking the truck out haha (bought an MPVI2, need to up the MAF range it’s throwing a P0101 MAF Performance code) My buddy said it wasn’t ticking as far as he could here over the open headers, front cam bearing looked a little suspicious, but it didn’t feel rough, just looked funky and i cleaned it up with some scotch brite. It does not look NEARLY as awful as some cam bearings that i’ve seen. Cam install and all went smooth and if it stops the tick i will surely update!
I don't know, man. He LOOKED at the cam bearings. This does not bode well......
i know i know, i should have measured, but they were replaced when the engine was swapped in the truck 20K miles ago when the engine got a full rebuild. Also the lobe that sits in the bearing (forgot the name of it haha) was not damaged at all. it was perfect LOOKING and the cam bearing was nice and smooth after 15 seconds of polishing with some oil and scotch brite
it’s running EXTREMELY (STFT was getting cut by 25% )rich tho which i find really weird. HPTuners showed it was retarding some timing at .85 cylinder airmass and 900 RPM, so i’m definitely gonna have to adjust my MAF parameters and my VE table aswell as timing. ran out of time last night. even at 1500 rpm she sounds MEAN with those 3.5 in long tubes!!
Any chance your tick maybe a stretched timing chain? Could be slapping. You have definitely tried everything else.
thought about that when i had the cam out. should have just replaced since i was right there. but again, it was replaced when the engine was rebuilt, and the knocking was from the middle of the valley, not from the front. I put a stethoscope on the front and it was quiet as a mouse. And that was before I did the cam swap while it was ticking. It also had a acceptable amount of chain wiggle in it. Not too tight and not too loose.
I too am concerned about cam bearing wear based on what I seen from your camshaft journal.
definitely gonna keep an ear out for noises and keep an eye on oil pressure. good thing is if that bearing goes out, I won’t have to pull the heads again. That was the bigger pain in the *** with doing the cam swap. I’ll just take out the pushrods and put the lifters into the trays, and then pull the cam out. After putting rods into the block so the lifters don’t fall into the block. along with the lifter tick, there was a squeak that would happen every now and then, but I was always just equating that to either a bad cam lobe or a bad lifter. The bearing felt fine, it didn’t feel rough or jagged. And it cleaned up real nice. The smart thing would’ve been to stop and pull that front bearing out seeing as I wouldn’t half to pull the engine in order to get to it. used a borescope to check deeper into the motor and take a look at the other cam bearings and they all looked brand new. front one looked like it got a little hot. it looked like it had worn through the first layer of bearing material, it definitely wasn’t down to the copper. if it fails, it fails. i’m glad that the new cam fixed the tick, the nick in the old cam was 99% the problem.
I was actually sorta kidding about the bearings. It's kind of a joke that since cam bearings always look worn, you don't look at them and just run them with a blind eye (or two...lol).
I guess you didn't catch that.
got an update on the ol LQ9. decided to finally rip the lifters out and do a cam swap. I had a Texas Speed stage 2 Low Lift truck cam (218/224 .550/.550 112) in it and i splurged and got a BTR Stage 4 Truck cam (224/230 .553/.553 111+2). all lifters that i had previously replaced were spot on and not damaged at all. pulled out the cam and it had a small nick (pic included) and i’m not sure if that was the cause. went to fire it up and it won’t idle, so it needs a tune. i could get it to run by giving it gas, but the longer duration in the cam is freaking the truck out haha (bought an MPVI2, need to up the MAF range it’s throwing a P0101 MAF Performance code) My buddy said it wasn’t ticking as far as he could here over the open headers, front cam bearing looked a little suspicious, but it didn’t feel rough, just looked funky and i cleaned it up with some scotch brite. It does not look NEARLY as awful as some cam bearings that i’ve seen. Cam install and all went smooth and if it stops the tick i will surely update!
Is that pitting on the surface of the cam lobe? Could that cause lifter noise?
Is that pitting on the surface of the cam lobe? Could that cause lifter noise?
most of what you’re seeing is actually coolant on the cam (spilled a bunch on it, kicked the damn catch can and it spilled everywhere haha) i think that knick is what was causing it. it wasn’t pitting, more of chipped off in my case. but yes pitting on either the lifters or the cam would cause a tick or knock in my case
05-31-2019, 07:07 PM
