A little advise needed before LS1 goes in 67 Camaro for the last time
 

A little background about the build... After my wife passed I decided to do a 67 Camaro to occupy my time etc. It was going to be a father son build with my oldest son who was a big American muscle gear head. The engine (LS1) and trans(T56) was coming from another project (2000 Trans am WS6 12k miles) that was in my garage since 2002. My son was the information for the LS platform I was a small block guy. Sadly the day after we started on the project he committed suicide. His last sentence in a letter to me was make sure you finish that Camaro in his honor. So, here's my question(s). The car is now painted, ready to put the engine back in. I think I definitely should replace valve guide seal given the amount of time its sat idle. Then there's the part of me that says it's a 67 Camaro and needs to have a cam in it that lets you know it's there. The original owner bought the TA new and sent it a shop before he even drove it he said they changed the heads, they are 241 castings, he did not know if any work was done to them. He said it was tuned, skip shift deleted and a Hurst shifter installed, cam is stock. The 67 has an Eaton true track with 430 gears in it. The Ls1 has a Holley pan on it, Headman hustler stepped long tubes. Need a little advise about cam, do I change springs or maybe put new heads on it? Remember it only has 12k on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've used this site as a reference for many years, many knowledgeable people here. Sorry for the long post.

If you just want a cam sound a decent power increase just a cam with spring/pushrod change wouldnt be expensive or difficult.
WS6 hot cam, texas speed 224, brian tooley stage 1-2, Cam motion titan 1-3 would fit this bill perfectly.
Heads start at around 1200 for ported 243 and go up to 1600-2500 for aftermarket castings then at that point at least an LS6 intake would be welcome.
Always keep in mind you dont have to do it all once and have fun. Sorry for your loss

Yeah, I'm not hung up on dyno numbers, but I do want it to move! I want to get all "major" mechanical work done before I put the subframe and engine/trans back in. Every part of the body engine bay and floors are straight as arrow and flawless. The less work around all that pretty stuff the better! Thanks for your advice. I'll be making some sort of a purchase from one of the sponsors.

Deal with WS6store. They will help you out with sound advice and good service! My personal advice is to not go too wild on mods. Keep it fun to drive, as in FLEXIBLE. Keep going man, you've been thru a lot. Have a blast with your car!
Gary

WS6 store definitely has a good reputation.

Which Holley oil pan are you using? And what motor mounts?

Russ Kemp

I went with the BRP mounts and used the Holley 302-1.

I would not use that set up. As it will mount the engine too high, since the 302-1 oil pan is a lot thicker above the cross member than the 302-2/3 pan. This then causes excessive front u-joint operating angles Also I don't think the raised engine position will allow the trans to clear the stock tunnel.

A friend used the Holley LS swap system to install a 6L LS1/ Magnum 6 speed into his 1968 Camaro (was a 4 spd car). The trans cleared the stock tunnel, and the stock shifter hole lined up with the trans shifter.

Russ Kemp

I raised the trans tunnel. I did not have any fitment problems when I had it in before. I will definitely check my driveline angles when I put it back in. I just dropped the subframe yesterday to get it powder coated. It got nicked up a bit at my buddies body shop.

G Atsma, Is there anyone in particular to talk to at the WS6 store?

I think everyone there is good to talk to.

BTR Stage 2, Summit Stage 2 or Cam Motion Titan 4 are all good streetable cams with some chop.

I see you're running the BTR stage 2. How do like it? How many miles on it?

I have about 1500 miles on it. It drives like stock. It can buck a bit just off idle crawling around a parking lot. Pulls from 1500 rpm to 6500 rpm.