Intermittent P0336/ constant P0300
10-22-2019, 12:54 PM
#26
That's also a good sign. Did you actually go listen to the tail pipe when you did that? And open the throttle body and listen through it?
As for the reluctor. It shouldn't move no matter what you do.. well within reason if you blew the motor to pieces it might but just revving it no it should not move.
Crank sensors can be funky, if you didn't put a high end brand sensor in it I would replace it with the most expensive/highest brand name you can find. Cheap crappy sensors are out there and do cause issues.
It was a great idea to replace the pig tail too. When you did, did you use high end weather proof butt connectors? Or at least solder and solder it really good and use heat shrink? I would do the weather proof butt connectors, that's what I use on all my high end splices. They are more consistent than even a great solder and heat shrink tube. (when done right obviously, if done crappy either isn't very good)
As for the reluctor. It shouldn't move no matter what you do.. well within reason if you blew the motor to pieces it might but just revving it no it should not move.
Crank sensors can be funky, if you didn't put a high end brand sensor in it I would replace it with the most expensive/highest brand name you can find. Cheap crappy sensors are out there and do cause issues.
It was a great idea to replace the pig tail too. When you did, did you use high end weather proof butt connectors? Or at least solder and solder it really good and use heat shrink? I would do the weather proof butt connectors, that's what I use on all my high end splices. They are more consistent than even a great solder and heat shrink tube. (when done right obviously, if done crappy either isn't very good)
10-22-2019, 01:16 PM
#27
That's also a good sign. Did you actually go listen to the tail pipe when you did that? And open the throttle body and listen through it?
As for the reluctor. It shouldn't move no matter what you do.. well within reason if you blew the motor to pieces it might but just revving it no it should not move.
Crank sensors can be funky, if you didn't put a high end brand sensor in it I would replace it with the most expensive/highest brand name you can find. Cheap crappy sensors are out there and do cause issues.
It was a great idea to replace the pig tail too. When you did, did you use high end weather proof butt connectors? Or at least solder and solder it really good and use heat shrink? I would do the weather proof butt connectors, that's what I use on all my high end splices. They are more consistent than even a great solder and heat shrink tube. (when done right obviously, if done crappy either isn't very good)
As for the reluctor. It shouldn't move no matter what you do.. well within reason if you blew the motor to pieces it might but just revving it no it should not move.
Crank sensors can be funky, if you didn't put a high end brand sensor in it I would replace it with the most expensive/highest brand name you can find. Cheap crappy sensors are out there and do cause issues.
It was a great idea to replace the pig tail too. When you did, did you use high end weather proof butt connectors? Or at least solder and solder it really good and use heat shrink? I would do the weather proof butt connectors, that's what I use on all my high end splices. They are more consistent than even a great solder and heat shrink tube. (when done right obviously, if done crappy either isn't very good)
10-22-2019, 01:51 PM
#28
That all should be good then. Helps to open the throttle body when listening though since they are close at rest. But you're probably okay.
Would be interested in a compression test. Dont forget to unplug the injectors when you do it, and do it as soon after running it as possible or oil the rings a little before the test to get the best numbers. But even cold sitting for a couple day numbers will be good for seeing if there is a problem.
Would be interested in a compression test. Dont forget to unplug the injectors when you do it, and do it as soon after running it as possible or oil the rings a little before the test to get the best numbers. But even cold sitting for a couple day numbers will be good for seeing if there is a problem.
10-23-2019, 02:54 PM
#29
That all should be good then. Helps to open the throttle body when listening though since they are close at rest. But you're probably okay.
Would be interested in a compression test. Dont forget to unplug the injectors when you do it, and do it as soon after running it as possible or oil the rings a little before the test to get the best numbers. But even cold sitting for a couple day numbers will be good for seeing if there is a problem.
Would be interested in a compression test. Dont forget to unplug the injectors when you do it, and do it as soon after running it as possible or oil the rings a little before the test to get the best numbers. But even cold sitting for a couple day numbers will be good for seeing if there is a problem.
10-23-2019, 03:07 PM
#30
I'd just unplug the injectors. There will be residual fuel pressure in the fuel system that will come out of the injectors if you only pull the relay. And if you pull the relay and disconnect coils the fuel wont burn off and will wash out some of the oil on the rings.
Also no reason to unplug the coils if you unplug the injectors since no fuel at all will come out. Unplugging the injectors really is the easiest and best way, and is a one step deal.
10-23-2019, 03:11 PM
#31
I'd just unplug the injectors. There will be residual fuel pressure in the fuel system that will come out of the injectors if you only pull the relay. And if you pull the relay and disconnect coils the fuel wont burn off and will wash out some of the oil on the rings.
Also no reason to unplug the coils if you unplug the injectors since no fuel at all will come out. Unplugging the injectors really is the easiest and best way, and is a one step deal.
Also no reason to unplug the coils if you unplug the injectors since no fuel at all will come out. Unplugging the injectors really is the easiest and best way, and is a one step deal.
12-10-2019, 11:55 AM
#36
Did you happen to use a mirror to see if anything looked funny?
Put a wrench on the bolt and make sure it's actually tight?
If you don't find anything I would replace the 02 sensors, you said there were codes for them and it's always nice having fresh good 02 sensors. And do a crank sensor too, a good one. And see where that gets you. The crank sensors do fail and they aren't expensive or hard to replace so it's a good thing to try and isn't much of a waste of money or time if it doesn't help.
Put a wrench on the bolt and make sure it's actually tight?
If you don't find anything I would replace the 02 sensors, you said there were codes for them and it's always nice having fresh good 02 sensors. And do a crank sensor too, a good one. And see where that gets you. The crank sensors do fail and they aren't expensive or hard to replace so it's a good thing to try and isn't much of a waste of money or time if it doesn't help.
12-10-2019, 12:34 PM
#37
I couldnt budge them by hand but when i pull the intake i will check to make sure theyre tight. The 02's are new, densos. Whats a good brand for the crank sensor? I had already replaced the crank sensor twice with new ac delco (made in china), and they failed out of the box. Put the old one back on which is the original one with 155k miles on it. I also did a crank relearn. I also have a new fuel pump that will be going in this coming month to upgrade the stock pump. I havent checked the fuel pressure at the rail yet.
Last edited by blkbird; 12-17-2019 at 08:02 AM.
12-10-2019, 03:11 PM
#38
Checking fuel pressure is a good idea, and check it under load too
10-4 on the sensors, and I would have said try an AC delco. But if I recall correctly I think some other people have said they had issues with the AC delco sensor too. I'll look on rock auto and see if I see one that looks like a good brand.
Is it a gen 3/24x crank?
If so they have delphi and NTK. NTK is NGK and they always make great products, so does delphi though.
10-4 on the sensors, and I would have said try an AC delco. But if I recall correctly I think some other people have said they had issues with the AC delco sensor too. I'll look on rock auto and see if I see one that looks like a good brand.
Is it a gen 3/24x crank?
If so they have delphi and NTK. NTK is NGK and they always make great products, so does delphi though.
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00pooterSS (12-10-2019)
