blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

Dudes - Would really appreciate some opinions and experience here. I have an 07 Sierra Classic 2500HD LQ4. It developed a coolant leak I'm pretty sure is a cracked radiator. As such I have a replacement along with new water pump, etc. While this is out, it would be the perfect time for a cam right!?!?

I wanted to do some budget heads/lifters/trays and really refresh the top end but quickly realize that was more $$ than I wanted to spend. So I've made my line in the sand taking the heads off. I'm going to keep the factory 317 heads, gaskets, lifters, trays, etc. Truck has 118k miles and has zero issues, great oil pressure, etc.

I use the truck to drive around town just because I enjoy driving it, and then tow my all-aluminum(1350#) trailer and turbo fox mustang (3300?#) so this isn't even beginning to tax even a stock 2500 gasser. BUT doing a cam would be cool and I think the gains from even a basic cam are too good not to take advantage of. I was going to do the summit big truck tork cam but with deciding to keep the stock lifters I've decided to maybe tone it down a bit. Wanted to save some money and go with something that could utilize LS6 style springs. First cam that came to mind was of course the Truck Norris. Makes huge numbers for a relatively mild cam. I think with the lift the factory lifters would be fine. Also thought about the Summit 8719.R1 209/217 cam as well. Then to confuse things even more I thought about a very basic drop in type cam? Although if I'm doing a cam I want to have at least a little lump cam idle, i mean how can you not want that????

I don't want to sacrifice drivability or most importantly reliability though. I live in Omaha, NE and this truck is outside 24/7. I need it to fire off in -5 temps and -25 wind chill. I know a cam has no real impact on that but just making a point.

I have a performance tune for it I was able to get for free. A big part of me also wants to just keep it stock, fix the cooling system, load the tune, and call it good with uber confidence until 300k miles.

Thoughts of experience? Would love to hear from those of you with towing type trucks who have done cams and have any of you regretted it? if so, why?

Thanks!!!

bthomas

iTrader: (1)

I’d think the 8728 to be a better choice. In fact it’s the one I’m going to use for my 2500

blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

Not disagreeing with you but since I’m staying w the stock lifters I wanted to decrease spring pressure. Truck Norris makes the same power with less spring pressure which is why I was leaning that direction. The ls6 springs and buying through a dealer makes them about the same cost. Any reason you’re doing a cam in your 2500 other than you’re just a hot rodder like me? Or just more power for towing?

99 2500

I have the crane cam 1449041 in my 1999 2500. more power at all rpm's up to 6000, specs are 210/218 114 + 4 with .551 lift. I just googled and no one seems to have in stock though.

bthomas

iTrader: (1)

the summit page says .600 beehive spring? Were you looking at the package they sell? It comes with a double, but isn’t needed to that control cam.

I don’t need to cam truck, but it’d be nice for a bit more power when needed. Like the on ramp every day to work.

blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

appreciate the input! Why did you do originally and what are your thoughts after? Well worth it? Any concerns with reliability?

blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

yes summit sells it with a .600 double spring as the intake is .600 lift and the exhaust is .585. Agree the cam isn’t aggressive and I’m just making assumptions on my part that less = better on stock lifters? Honestly don’t know. I PM’d them this thread. I’m sure they will eventually chime in with more expert knowledge.

G Atsma

I thought Crane was out of business.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

I have a 2500 HD and I plan on installing the BTR Truck Norris NSR ( no springs required ) cam when the time comes. Big torque increases, even down low.

blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

I was pretty set on the truck norris until I talked to Kenny Dangler from Northern Performance about it and he said that cam kills engine vacuum pretty significantly and braking will suffer. This was for the traditional TN cam not sure about the NSR version. Pretty sure I'm going to go with either the Callies 210/218-108 cam or I may still let Summit talk me into the big truck tork cam, still need to speak with them about it and other options. I did see that SDPC has a nice line up of truck cams for very good prices too. I may give them a call as well.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Does your truck have vacuum assisted brakes? Mine has hydroboost, which doesn't require engine vacuum to function.

Fast355

Agreed 2500HD should have hydroboost like my Express van does. Only thing that needs vacuum on my van is the ac blend doors and they work fine at 10-12 in/hg vacuum.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

I have 3 2500hd trucks that i do use for their intended purposes and after using quite a few cams, by far the best decision was the tsp stg2 high lift. It still uses beehive springs so its super quiet and more affordable, but makes great power especially for towing and even cruising. Doesn't need a converter and most 2500d have 3.73 or 4.10 anyway so gears arent an issue.
I have towed anywhere from unloaded up to 26k lbs and regularly work with trailers and loads around the 5k to 6k range and they all work without issue. I use the same cam in all 3. They are different trucks also and all perform flawlessly.
04 2500hd reg cab long bed 4x4 with nv4500 manual trans
05 2500hd xcab reg bed 4x4 with 4l80
08 2500hd xcab reg bed ly6 4x4 6l90 trans

I always recommend it based off how it does in all 3 applications for me.

Kjduvall

i just did the tsp choacabra cam cam in fresh .30 over lq4 and it has great manners, nice idle, and is fun to drive. we wouldve went bigger if it wasnt for stock converter.

Summitracing

@blackdak318,

Thanks for sending us a PM to check out your thread.

Something that caught our eye in your initial post is the free "performance tune". We assume that's a canned tune. Those are good to get you up and running but there could be further tweaks to the tune needed to suit your liking. If the cost of a custom tune isn't in the budget for this cam swap we'd suggest sticking with the stock cam. With the truck having no issues other than the coolant leak we'd fix those, load the tune, and drive it! That way if the tune doesn't work out then no harm no foul. Remove the tune and you're right back to the stock truck.

If that "performance tune" comes with x amount of re-flashes or a custom tune is in the cards then we would look into a cam swap.

Our first choice for this combo and goals would be our SUM-8728R1 "Big Truck Torkinator". Specs on it are .600/.585, 212/218, 110+3 with -5* of overlap. For a daily driven truck that wants to tow with confidence, this cam is a great fit. It'll have a steady lope but will be easy to tune and live with. It will make great torque from 2,000 on up and pulls well to 6,500 remaining easy on the valvetrain with .600" lift beehives. It wouldn't be a problem to use stock lifters with our 8728R1 and the .600" lift beehives.

If the goal was to use a budget-friendly LS6-style spring the Truck Norris cam would be our 2nd choice. Specs on it are .552/.552, 212/22x on a 107. Without knowing the exact exhaust duration we can't provide an exact overlap number but that should end up around 5*. This would have a steady lope but not be a bear to tune or live with. We wouldn't worry about issues with power brakes with the TN. As others mentioned you should have hydroboost in your 07 2500HD Classic.

Another option for use with a budget-friendly LS6-style spring is our SUM-8719R1 stage 1 high-lift cam. Specs on it are .550/.550, 209/217, 112+1 with -11* of overlap. It would be a bit milder than the 8728R1 or the TN. You could still get a noticeable idle out of it. You might lose a bit of grunt with this cam compared to the other two. However, it would be very easy to get along with and still provide a noticeable improvement over the stock cam. It would run out well to 6,500+ with our LS6-style springs.

Something to keep in mind when keeping the stock lifters and doing a cam swap. The trays could be worn which could allow the lifters to slide down in them when the cam is pulled. It's a good idea to use some dowel rods to help hold the lifters up before removing the cam.

With any of the cams mentioned, we'd recommend getting a minimum of a 5/16" Chromoly pushrod with a .080" wall to help keep the valvetrain stable. You can typically find a set of 16 for around $100.

This gives you an idea of how we would look at the cams for this combo and goals. Let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

Hey everyone. To close the loop here I decided against doing this to the truck. Just not worth it. I drove the truck around like I usually do and never got over 2500 RPM. It's a 6500# 2500HD truck that gets terrible gas mileage as it is, I'm certainly not out romping around in it. I also have an all aluminum trailer and lighter weight fox mustang when towing that is only about 5000# total so this doesn't come even close to taxing the truck. I saved the $$ and am using it elsewhere. Really appreciate everyone's input though!!!

G Atsma

You know, this thread hit very close to home. I have a 2004 Tahoe with about 250k miles. I use it to run to town (20-30 miles round trip) or short road trips during which it never or very seldom sees past 3500-4000 RPM or close to full throttle.
I've been daydreaming about a mild truck cam and some minor head work for when the engine is up against necessary work, like maybe a valve job.
This thread has me questioning the cam part. Now all I would do is a thinner head gasket to tighten quench and a bit of milling to raise compression a bit more than the gaskets alone would. And who knows if this will happen...

07SGguy

Cam Motion Titan 1 Truck Cam will add power under 2500. It makes more torque starting at 1200rpms in my 2000 2500 with the 6.0 and a 5 speed. I had to add fuel at full throttle everywhere except idle rpms when I tuned it.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

If you do decide to do something, Just keep it small. No more than the TSP Stage 2 low lift cam.

Don't do much to the heads other then a good valve job and blend the seat's into the bowl if there is casting flash.

G Atsma

Yeah, that was all I was thinking of doing besides any milling to adjust the compression beyond what is gained via thinner gaskets.
Thank you! Good advice!