jdperk-86elco

Hi All,
I have a 1986 El Camino that I swapped in an 2000 LS1 and 4L60E transmission back in 2005. The swap was documented on this forum. I am now getting around to a frame off restoration and I want to freshen up the stock 2000 LS1. I have the electronic throttle body on the car. The engine is a stock 2000 LS1 I think out of a Camaro with the Camaro accessory drive but with the DriveByWire throttle body. I purchased the engine, transmission, and custom wire harness from Speartech. It has been good. I have noticed a lot of noise or clatter until it is warmed up as I have read this is common with the piston skirts slapping the cylinder walls. Anyway, the car has been sitting for 5 years because my brake line rusted out and has been waiting on me to make time to take it apart due to my work travel.

I want to rebuild the engine since I will have it out of the car. The heads are 853 castings. The intake is stock, and I assume the throttle body is 78mm. This will be a occasionally to daily driven street car. I was thinking of installing an LS6 intake and keeping the TB. My question is what should I have done to the engine when I rebuild? Are the 853 heads OK for the street and drivability. I don't want the engine to lope to much but I would like around 350 to 400 rwhp if realistic.
Other questions:

1. What about the oil barbell should that change or be modified?
2. Oil pump replacement to high output or leave stock?
3. New freeze plugs?
4. Bored over?
5. Upgrade injectors?
6. New Heads, which ones?
7. Port the heads?
8. Running stock exhaust should I go with shorties or long tube or stay stock?

Thanks

LS1 TJ

Kind of depends on your budget.
An LS6 intake will get you 20 hp?
A small cam with upgraded springs and push rods?
Aftermarket heads? Engine masters ran a comparison test on the lower priced LS heads. Worth a look. Comparing them to refurbished 853 heads cost wise.
I would pony up for forged rods and pistons.
I would keep the stock injectors but have them rebuilt/cleaned and flowed.
Long tube headers all the way.
New seals all around. Some are using a billet? bar bell.
If the bearing clearances are set up correctly I would go stock (Melling) volume oil pump. Maybe shim the oil relief spring?
New "real" LS7 lifters.
And then a tune on a chassis dyno to take advantage of all the new parts.
Good luck with your project.

jdperk-86elco

Are there any kits out there that are budget friendly, in other words, good bang for the buck?

I intend to go to a local engine builder to do the work because I don't have the time or tools for a LS build. Should I buy the parts myself then take them to the builder?

Y2K_Frenzy

If they’ll let you buy the parts and bring them it’d probably be cheaper than buying them through the shop.
I think your engine might have came out of a Vette since the throttle body is electronic. My ‘00 Camaro uses a cable.
I’m new to the LS game so I don’t have any recommendations as far as “kits.” But I’ve researched “kits” a little and it looks like at one time Texas Speed and Performance were selling ported heads that were falling apart (rocker arms getting torn off and such). I don’t know if that’s still an issue or not, but the remedy at the time was reported to be the use of epoxy as a reinforcement. So I’m not sure if I’d go with them.

jdperk-86elco

My engine came from Speartech and if I remember correctly I asked for ETB, ECM, and a custom wiring harness.

jdperk-86elco

I am reading that forged pistons wear out faster and slap more due to larger clearances due to heat expansion. I have 23 years on this stock setup will forged pistons not last as long? Is it worth the money?

What is a good company to buy LS1 engine parts?

jdperk-86elco

What is a good Cam manufacture that everyone has had good results? I want a smooth idle like an LS6 cam but I assume I can get a better than that with today's technology. Any recommendations to lift, lobe separation, and duration numbers? I intend to get new springs and roller rockers. Maybe a 0.5 something lift, a 114 LS, I don't know the numbers as I have been out of engines for a while since the small block Chevy's.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

The two things you need to ask yourself and answer honestly are:
What's your goal
What's your budget.

IIRC, with the LS1, they can only go .005 over or something like that, basically they can't be bored.

Unless you are planning on adding a bunch of power, it's a waste of money to buy a bunch of forged parts. These engines can handle a ridiculous amount of power with stock parts.

LS1 TJ

I have a rebuilt 2002 LS6/4L60E in my 98 Wrangler. I bought the engine used from a local salvage yard. It was stock. Before all my LS swaps I have a local machine shop pull the pan and check clearances. It wasn't pretty. So I contacted the salvage yard and we sat down with the machine shop on how to go forward. The salvage shop owner really stepped up and said he would either refund my money for the engine or they would pay for all the parts to make the short block LS like new. I would cover the machine shop costs.
So we agreed to forged rods (Scat) and forged pistons (Mahle). All new bearings. The forged pistons do have piston slap on a cold start. It's been 15 years since the rebuild and maybe 30K miles with zero issues. No weird oil consumption. Runs great.
Having said the above I rebuilt a LS1 about 5 years ago and used Diamond pistons and Scat rods.. Zero piston slap on cold start up. Nothing against Mahle they have good product.
In regards to a "kit" to rebuild a LS I would ask your chosen machine shop to give you a quote to rebuild your LS with an itemized parts price with the manufactures part numbers. Then you check if the pricing of the parts is reasonable.

jdperk-86elco

Yes, being realistic I am not wanting to make a lot of power. I want around 400 HP for sporty driving. Good low end torque for acceleration. I will not be (running) this over 6K RPM very often. I may in the future want to put a Pro Charger or some brand of super charger if I can fit it under the stock hood in the future. I intend to get an LS6 intake. I don't want a lot of lope, I rather have a smoother idle and reliable for daily driving.

I am thinking a cam and springs upgrade that is similar to an LS6 cam or a little mildly aggressive. A cam that will give me somewhat smooth idle, maybe a slight lope I can live with daily driving.

Are there any other mods I should do while I am having the engine rebuilt?
1- Should I get a metal oil barbell?
2- Should I replace the rear oil seal plate with an upgraded one that is thicker in some areas to prevent cracks and oil leaks?
3- Should I get a high output oil pump or get a stock one and shim the spring, or just run a stock oil pump?
4- If I keep the stock rods and pistons is there anything I should do with them?
5- Is there anything else I should do to the engine internally?
6- I have read that there is a fix for the oil consumption of the early LS1s by grinding down an internal oil value boss and installing a different valley plate, is this worth doing or are there other fixes for sucking oil into the intake? I have a 2000 C5 and see oil inside the intake, I have also read that the fix is inside the valve cover? Any information on this topic?

Thanks for any recommendations and advice.

Y2K_Frenzy

Easy on the rappings. 😂

jdperk-86elco

I was thinking wrapping but running would be the proper term here ;-)

kbronSS

If all you want is 400hp(not rwhp) then just get yourself a ls6 top end(243/799 heads). As far as cam, id go with a Cam Motion HIGH LIFT DROP IN version. Itll be way better than the ls6 cam but more power without the need of a stall. Obviously long tube headers. Upgrade the basics that u will be removing for the cam swap. No need for bigger injectors. Itll be more than what u want as far as performance and its night and day difference from what u got right now.

jdperk-86elco

Thanks, from my research that was what I was thinking. I'm on the fence on LS6 heads due to cost. Do you think 243/799 heads over the stock 853 heads is worth the cost?

I am also on the fence about shorty VS long tube headers. Shorty headers will help the torque compared to cast manifolds and be easier to get in the engine bay.

Do you have specs or the part number for the Cam Motion drop in version and the LS6 cam specs for comparison. I am thinking LSA 114 to 117 to keep the smooth idle. I am also thinking 0.6 lift is the max I should go with a stock bottom end.

cula8r

iTrader: (2)

These are a few suggestion on what I would do for a mild build:
-If you're gonna bore I used SRP 4032 forged high silicon pistons for my 6.0L or go with Speed pro hypereutectic pistons.
- send you heads out to TEA for a rebuild and port job. https://totalengineairflow.com/product/gm-5-7l-stage-1
- add a mild cam like this one or the next one -1.5. https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...-elgin-1838-p/
- Try and get a complete LS6 intake with everything on it.
- 10295 Melling oil pump.
- Mid length headers.
- Arp head bolts and rod bolts.
- Good tuner.

If your builder lets you supply the parts .....bonus but keep in mind that they won't guarantee the engine.