J-Rod

My car shipped with 5w-30 Mobil 1. I have considered going up t 15w-50 since I drive the car fairly hard. But with the tight tolerances of the engine and the stock pump I have wondered if that was sucha hot idea. Wondering what other folks were doing?

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

10/30 Mobil 1.

Bruce

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

5w-30 Royal Purple

Jackyl_30

5w-30. I just bought some Royal Purple. The other day. Is that stuff any good?

thechef

iTrader: (13)

10w 30 Mobil 1 switching to Kendall synthetic 10w30 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Louis

iTrader: (7)

15/50 mobil 1 for the summer, and track events, and 5/30 mobil 1 for the wintery season. FYI, I loose ~ 10#s of oil pressure at idle between the 2 <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Slowverado

i run 15/50 in my 2001 5.3 and stock oil pump and drive the dog **** out of it and have had no problems. oil pressure is about the same as it was with 10/30 but at wot it gets a little higher but not so high it will be a problem.

Matt

Mordecai

iTrader: (1)

Mobil1 10w 30

HITMANSS

10W30 dyno oil works OK, but 10W30 synthetic oil can result in excessive oil consumption, especially w/ Mobil 1. Since Mobil 1 doesn't make a 10W40, I use a gallon of 10W30, top it off w/ 15W50.

I have gone from using over a quart per 3k miles, to no oil consumption whatsoever.

<small>[ March 26, 2003, 08:00 AM: Message edited by: HITMANSS ]</small>

Patman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by HITMANSS:
<strong> 10W30 dyno oil works OK, but 10W30 synthetic oil can result in excessive oil consumption, especially w/ Mobil 1. Since Mobil 1 doesn't make a 10W40, I use a gallon of 10W30, top it off w/ 15W50.

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Actually Mobil 1 does technically make a 10w40, but it's a motorcycle oil. But their 0w40 European oil could be used instead of 10w40. Many of you might think it's too thin, but in reality it's thicker than 10w30 Mobil 1 both when cold and when hot!

Here are their viscosity specs:

0w40 at 40c is 80.3cst
10w30 at 40c is 61.3 cst
0w40 at 100c is 14.4 cst
10w30 at 100c is 9.8 cst

Also for comparison, here are the specs on Amsoil 10w40:

79.2 cst at 40c
14.0 cst at 100c

and Pennzoil 10w40

88 cst at 40c
13.5 cst at 100c

So while mixing 10w30 and 15w50 Mobil 1 is still safe, you guys should try out the 0w40 if you can find it in your area. Autozone carries it now I believe.

So contrary to popular belief, the 0w40 oil is not a super thin oil on a cold start in the summertime (where the oil is already almost at 40c, or reaches that point very soon after startup) The difference is that the 0w40 does so much better in the extreme cold that it can qualify for the 0w rating. Don't be afraid of these new 0w oils, as oils are getting better all the time. I didn't even like 5w30 oils too much in the past (and still don't like 5w30 dino oil) due to their rapid thinning out, but the newest synthetics are totally safe in the 5w30, 0w30, 0w40 viscosities. As a matter of fact, the oil going into my car in a few months is a 0w30, it's Castrol's German Formula SLX oil. This oil has a pour point of -78F, but yet is almost as thick as a 40wt oil at 100c (it's 12.1 cst, only 0.4 cst away from qualifying as a 40wt)

zTrackerz

Patman, you seem fairly knowledgeable when it comes to oils.

I read some where that in multi viscosity oils the greater the difference in numbers the more modifiers added. And it also was stated that the modifiers can lead to depositis....

So hence a 0w40 has more modifiers then a 5w40 and ect. And the extra modifiers can lead to deposits...

Any truth to this?

Fastest 35th SE.

REDLINE
10w40 for the summer time.
10w30 for the winter time.

TaTommyWS6

I recently switched FROM Mobile 10W-30, which I have used since I bought my car new (now has 35k miles)

Now I am using Mobile 15W-50 and my oil pressure is MUCH higher. At warm idle it never goes below 35-40. With 10W-30 it used to idle warm at 15-20.

I'm going to stick with 15W-50. Not sure if I have lost a little power though... Maybe it's mental!

Tommy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Tudds

iTrader: (4)

5w-30 mobil 1
I beat the **** outta my car

Patman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Tudds:
<strong> 5w-30 mobil 1
I beat the **** outta my car </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Then you'll want something with a higher HTHS number. Mobil 1 5w30 is only 3.2. Their 0w40 is closer to 3.7 I believe. Redline 5w30 is 3.8. Higher HTHS numbers equal lower bearing wear.

<small>[ March 26, 2003, 06:35 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>

CHRISPY

Patman,
I just came back from Mr. Lube and they said they had a 5W40 Mobil synthetic that works well.

Well when I got home I looked it up and found:

Mobil Delvac 1 5W40
Typical Characteristics
Product Number 44111-3
SAE Grade 5W-40
Gravity, API 32.3
Pour Point, °C (°F) -54 (-65)
Flash Point, ASTM D 92, °C (°F) 230 (446)
Viscosity
cSt at 40° C
cSt at 100° C
SUS at 100° F
SUS at 210° F
95.0
15.0
481
79
Cranking Viscosity,
cP at -25° C
3,200
Pumping Viscosity,
cP at -35° C
20,500
Borderline Pumping Temperature, °C -44
HT/HS, cP at 150° C 4.1
Viscosity Index 167
Sulfated Ash, wt % 1.3
TBN, ASTM D 2896 11
Color, ASTM D 1500 5

Should I go back to Mr. Lube and kick someones *** or am I ok? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I drove the car about 500 feet back to my place and parked it. If they focked up I'll go back there tomorrow and get them to take it out.

Cheers,
Chris

<small>[ March 26, 2003, 07:12 PM: Message edited by: Chris ARE 360 ]</small>

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

I keep switching because the little light in the dash says to change oil. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> I'm running out of brands and weights. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> The last oil change I put in Mobil 1 10W30. So far the light hasn't come on so I guess the car is OK with it.

I don't know what else to try. <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

Patman - Can you help? PLEASE!!

Thanks

John

<small>[ March 26, 2003, 06:52 PM: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</small>

SpeedyPAL

I've used Mobile-1 in every vehicle I've owned since 1977, when it first came out. When selecting an oil viscosity the goal is not to make your oil pressure gauge read higher or lower, that's a function of the clearances between the big end of the connecting rods as well as all the other clearances in the engine.

The maximum oil pressure is set by the regulator built into the oil pump and that is most likely set to 70 pounds or so therefore you won’t see that until you make some reasonable RPMs.

All you need in pressure is 10 pounds per 1000 RPM. More that that and you are simply heating the oil unnecessarily with the oil pump.

Lubrication notwithstanding, the primary goal of the oil is to remove heat from the bearings, cylinders, bottom of the pistons, valve springs and every other part in the engine that is touched by oil.

The lower viscosity oils do that much better than the higher ones. The other very important consideration is to not create an ash residue on the top surface of the top compression ring. And Mobile-1 is hands down the cleanest in terms of ash deposits of any oil I've ever used.

The 0-40 Mobile-1 would be my choice. I’ve been building engines and racing them for over 50 years and we have never had any thing close at such a reasonable price. The specific heat of 15-50 Mobile-1 is simple not high enough and it does a poor job of sucking up heat. If your clearances are so out of spec that you need 15-50 to show any oil pressure – your engine was built wrong. GM does know what clearances are best – even the roundy-round guys have discovered that.

Years ago we used to run larger clearances so that more oil would get past the bearings ( not a terrible thought) but then we had to run 50 weight to make any oil pressure and the end result was we spun bearings all the time. They simply over heated at the slightest excuse – usually a tiny bit of detonation at medium RPM as we came out of a corner. We were not all that smart then but we did learn.
Sorry for the long post

Xerxes

iTrader: (1)

Redline 10W30. No problems or oil consumption what so ever.

Patman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by zTrackerz:
<strong> Patman, you seem fairly knowledgeable when it comes to oils.

I read some where that in multi viscosity oils the greater the difference in numbers the more modifiers added. And it also was stated that the modifiers can lead to depositis....

So hence a 0w40 has more modifiers then a 5w40 and ect. And the extra modifiers can lead to deposits...

Any truth to this? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, with conventional oils it is true, they need a lot of VII to span the larger gaps. But when it comes to synthetics, they can often create these larger span viscosities now by simply using a different formulation for their base oil, with just a small amount of VII added.