what do i need to do to spin my motor to 7k
#1
what do i need to do to spin my motor to 7k
Id like to be able to spin my motor to about 7,000rpm.
what am i going to need to set it up for it.
id like to keep it a hydrolic roller (is that posible)
what will i really need, id like to keep this as low cost as possible.
do i just need double springs and good rockers or just good springs.
what would you guys recomend
what am i going to need to set it up for it.
id like to keep it a hydrolic roller (is that posible)
what will i really need, id like to keep this as low cost as possible.
do i just need double springs and good rockers or just good springs.
what would you guys recomend
#3
um cause i need to, reasons will be obvious later.
um maybe i need to rev more cause i shift just before i cross the traps and dont want to change tires or gear. We will just leave it at that for now.
this little 347 i have needs to spin to make power
um maybe i need to rev more cause i shift just before i cross the traps and dont want to change tires or gear. We will just leave it at that for now.
this little 347 i have needs to spin to make power
Last edited by smokinHawk; 10-28-2004 at 08:52 AM.
#4
I was just asking because I’ve seen a ton of posts about everyone wanting to rev the snot out of these engines.
Since you said you didn’t want to spend a lot… Some nice double springs like the Comp 977 would be nice, but they might be too hard on your seats. Other than that just go with a roller rocker and some ARP rod bolts. This ‘should’ keep float down and keep the engine in one piece for a while.
Since you said you didn’t want to spend a lot… Some nice double springs like the Comp 977 would be nice, but they might be too hard on your seats. Other than that just go with a roller rocker and some ARP rod bolts. This ‘should’ keep float down and keep the engine in one piece for a while.
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#10
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It does not take much. On my TA it was all factory rockers and lifters, stock bottomend with good heads and cam and it went to 6800 for 4 years without any problems. If you have a forged bottom end and a good valve train it will work just fine. We run 7000 on good dual springs and Harland Sharps all the time.
NAte
NAte
#11
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Restritor pushrods are used to keep the hyd lifters from pumping up at high rpm. 1 end of the pushrod is swedged solid then drilled with a sinker EDM machine with a .030" hole. This end goes to the lifter. Mustang guys use them to run some classes where OEM roller lifters are mandated.
Chris
Chris
#12
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Originally Posted by Nasty N8
It does not take much. On my TA it was all factory rockers and lifters, stock bottomend with good heads and cam and it went to 6800 for 4 years without any problems. If you have a forged bottom end and a good valve train it will work just fine. We run 7000 on good dual springs and Harland Sharps all the time.
NAte
NAte
Na$ty Nate whats up man.... i called a while back and couldnt get ahold of ya...... How much do those Harland Sharp rockers run?? You gunna make it to Thunder?? Ill be there.....
Kyle
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Yes you probably could, it just depends on how ofter you're going to be hitting 7K and what you use the car for? If you're planning on getting 100K miles out of the bottom end 1/4 mile at a time at 7K you're dreaming. Too many variables you need to be more specific on your uses and expectations.
Yes the rocker ratio affects the actual cam specs.
Yes the rocker ratio affects the actual cam specs.
#15
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If you haven't already been advised, I'd very much so recommend an either stock or ported LS-6 oil pump as well. I went through two LS-1 pumps in one motor riding the red. The ported LS-6 pump I have now has lasted double what both LS-1's gave me. They don't seem to like the redline-atleast not for long anyway...If you pull a search, you'll find some stories. I wouldn't chance it.
#16
ya i wish i would have thought about the oil pump when the engine was apart, how hard is it to swap it out in the car?
i dont plan on this engine lasting to long, when i put it back in the car, i already noticed some light scores on one of the cylinder walls, and at that point i was like screw it., it would be nice for it to last 20k miles, but i wont be heart broken if it doesnt, hopefully i wont damage my internals. ill have to do another .005 bore so it will be 3.91.
i dont plan on this engine lasting to long, when i put it back in the car, i already noticed some light scores on one of the cylinder walls, and at that point i was like screw it., it would be nice for it to last 20k miles, but i wont be heart broken if it doesnt, hopefully i wont damage my internals. ill have to do another .005 bore so it will be 3.91.
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It's definitely not a hard job, but it's not what I'd consider quick either. It's just that if your pump happens to go out, no matter the mileage, you can pretty much kiss the motor goodbye. I caught my second 'What? No oil pressure?' ordeal pretty quick, but it wasn't quick enough...It fries your springs and rockers first, while also drying up the main and rod bearings. Not everyone would think it's such a big thing to worry about, but I now stare at the oil pressure gauge when I'm dancing around the redline. Just something to think about...
#19
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Your only choice really is a factory spec, or ported LS-6. I don't believe we have anything in the after-market available. Yet, that is...I'd go for factory spec and hit it with a die grinder myself-not much at all is removed-not worth the extra $$$.
Sponsers, take no offense...sorry...
Sponsers, take no offense...sorry...
#20
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It is not just what is removed there is plenty done to the inside of a ported pump as well stiffer spring shamfered edges...
Hey Kyle how is the car? The harlands are $325.00 and I may be at Thunder if we can get a couple of customers cars running in time.
Nate
Hey Kyle how is the car? The harlands are $325.00 and I may be at Thunder if we can get a couple of customers cars running in time.
Nate