15mm headbolt is acting seized/crossthreaded on the way out can somebody advise me ?
10-29-2004, 03:31 PM
#1
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15mm headbolt is acting seized/crossthreaded on the way out can somebody advise me ? Damn man damn.
Everything was going exactly as planned (thx JMX). One of the 15mm top pass side headbolts (3rd one from front) on the inside of the valve cover is not coming out anywhere near as easy as every other one. It broke free but it seems to be getting harder to budge. The socket actually spun twice so I am trying to use the breaker bar again to SLOWLEY work it out but it is "almost done moving" the rest of the bolts are almost out and I am on them with a 3/4 socket wrench. I am assuming the dealer has the heads off when I had my re-ring. Is it possible it was crossthreaded at that time. I am not quite sure what to do. I tried (briefly) to work it back in and that was even tougher.
This is my first headswap and I do not know what I will do if I bust a bolt off.
Any advise or anythig you guys got would really be appreciated right about now....Thanks in advance fellas.
Damn.
Everything was going exactly as planned (thx JMX). One of the 15mm top pass side headbolts (3rd one from front) on the inside of the valve cover is not coming out anywhere near as easy as every other one. It broke free but it seems to be getting harder to budge. The socket actually spun twice so I am trying to use the breaker bar again to SLOWLEY work it out but it is "almost done moving" the rest of the bolts are almost out and I am on them with a 3/4 socket wrench. I am assuming the dealer has the heads off when I had my re-ring. Is it possible it was crossthreaded at that time. I am not quite sure what to do. I tried (briefly) to work it back in and that was even tougher.
This is my first headswap and I do not know what I will do if I bust a bolt off.
Any advise or anythig you guys got would really be appreciated right about now....Thanks in advance fellas.
Damn.
10-29-2004, 05:25 PM
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I am only suggesting this as a fall-back position. GM makes a head bolt thread repair kit if it goes that way. Sorry to hear about your troubles. The dealer might have spun those in with an air gun. 
I had an idea. Have you tried tightening some of the other bolts down again? Not all the way, but pretty tight. If the head is lifting it could be putting some angular stress on the bolt.
I had an idea. Have you tried tightening some of the other bolts down again? Not all the way, but pretty tight. If the head is lifting it could be putting some angular stress on the bolt.
10-29-2004, 05:47 PM
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I know a guy that used the head bolt repair kit....It worked great and the motor has been running for about 5k now with no problems
10-29-2004, 06:50 PM
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Guys I really appreciate the input. I just got back from a stupid group meeting in which I had to explain why I was so PO'd. Anyway I am going to go tighten the other bolts down like you guys suggested and Hit the stuck one with some WD40.
Again I appreciate your input -- this could really end up sucking !!
Stupid dealers and thier fancy airguns !
Again I appreciate your input -- this could really end up sucking !!
Stupid dealers and thier fancy airguns !
10-30-2004, 09:16 AM
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Ok I wrenched the other bolts around it back in and my wife suggested talking to the car - so I tried that too (it was a long day) anyway after much sweat I was able to work the GDMF thing out without busting it and the bolt looks fine. I hope the block does too. Amen. Thanks fellas.
Dope - The meeting was the fancy book learnin' sort not the "hello my name is..." kind although I probably do stand to benefit much more from that sort of meeting hehe.
"Lisa can you open that window ? The police have daddys finger prints."
Dope - The meeting was the fancy book learnin' sort not the "hello my name is..." kind although I probably do stand to benefit much more from that sort of meeting hehe.
"Lisa can you open that window ? The police have daddys finger prints."
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10-30-2004, 12:59 PM
#8
Sounds like the bolt hole was partially stripped. I'd helicoil it just to be safe. I wouldn't expect it to hold a torque when you bolt it down again.
The thing you described, where the bolt breaks loose, then gets harder to turn, is usually from a stripped hole.
Glad to hear you got it out.
The thing you described, where the bolt breaks loose, then gets harder to turn, is usually from a stripped hole.
Glad to hear you got it out.
10-30-2004, 01:58 PM
#9
I don't know for sure I've had some of the bolts do that on a few of the head swaps I've done the only thing I do is use an impact to get them out and after I have the head off I cut two groves in an old bolt and ran it up and down each and every hole and it cleans all the old sealer locktite what ever you want to call it. run them up and down a few times then I spray brake cleaner in the holes and then blow them out with air and reinstall new head gaskets and bolts.
10-30-2004, 04:28 PM
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I to am grinding down a bolt to clean the holes....No shavings immediatley noticable but I will inspect them all much closer after State beats U of M. If I have no shavings am I cool?
I had one other bolt on the other head act similar (lower driversside frontmost "shorter" bolt) but not even close as tough. Some of the bolts were thickly coated in this grey smelly paste. I was surprised at how easily some came out there was alot of variation. I plan on installing ARP's dry.
Both heads on the floor now. That ground wire bolt was a bitch.
Rock and roll, thanks guys.
I had one other bolt on the other head act similar (lower driversside frontmost "shorter" bolt) but not even close as tough. Some of the bolts were thickly coated in this grey smelly paste. I was surprised at how easily some came out there was alot of variation. I plan on installing ARP's dry.
Both heads on the floor now. That ground wire bolt was a bitch.
Rock and roll, thanks guys.
