I'M LOST! Best Mods for improving low-end torque?
#1
I'M LOST! Best Mods for improving low-end torque?
Please go easy on me, but I am very lost after doing a lot of reading on Trans Am mods on this board and need some advice.
I don't know a whole lot about cars, however I will be purchasing a T/A within the next few months, and I want to start getting an idea and begin to learn what I need to know so I dont' get taken for too much $$$ by purchasing stuff that I don't need to accomplish my goals.
Here is my goal: I want the best possible speed off of the line, flat-out awesome 0-60 speed in an automatic transmisson T/A or Formula(don't laugh, I know that can be a contradiction but I need an auto). My reason for an auto. is this car will be my daily driver, and I can't stand driving a stick in commuter traffic 80 minutes each way. This car will not be a race car taken on the track, I plan on putting another $5000 in audio system upgrades, so I don't have the same amount of dough for the performance, but I want to invest some money into that as well.
I don't plan on racing this vehicle or going 150MPH, my goal is the best low-end power for daily city and highway driving. When I go WOT I want the car to fly when I am going 20, 30, or 50 MPH.
What are the specific mods that I need to add to my car, and what are the tuning adjustments that need to be made to the engine/transmission/computer to get the best possible low-end torque? How much parts/labor would I be looking to spend, ballpark, to accomplish this?
Would I be more satisfied with a low-end speed modded LS1 or LT1 for daily driving?
Thanks
I don't know a whole lot about cars, however I will be purchasing a T/A within the next few months, and I want to start getting an idea and begin to learn what I need to know so I dont' get taken for too much $$$ by purchasing stuff that I don't need to accomplish my goals.
Here is my goal: I want the best possible speed off of the line, flat-out awesome 0-60 speed in an automatic transmisson T/A or Formula(don't laugh, I know that can be a contradiction but I need an auto). My reason for an auto. is this car will be my daily driver, and I can't stand driving a stick in commuter traffic 80 minutes each way. This car will not be a race car taken on the track, I plan on putting another $5000 in audio system upgrades, so I don't have the same amount of dough for the performance, but I want to invest some money into that as well.
I don't plan on racing this vehicle or going 150MPH, my goal is the best low-end power for daily city and highway driving. When I go WOT I want the car to fly when I am going 20, 30, or 50 MPH.
What are the specific mods that I need to add to my car, and what are the tuning adjustments that need to be made to the engine/transmission/computer to get the best possible low-end torque? How much parts/labor would I be looking to spend, ballpark, to accomplish this?
Would I be more satisfied with a low-end speed modded LS1 or LT1 for daily driving?
Thanks
#2
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ls1.com has an entire list of "free mods". That owuld be a good starting point. Definately do a lid. After that, get a higher stall converter. That will be a minimal investment and it should ensure that you enjoy your ride.
#3
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you should look at some of the baby cams. like the hot cam or an ls6 cam. ive heard those dont need any tuning. ive got an automatic also and a new converter will be one of the best mods for an auto. everyone says it on here! i would also probably look into some new gears. id say 3.73 at most. and def. a catback exhaust sys. hope this helps any. the converter will be 500 on up depending on brand. the cam installed maybe closer to 800 but i dunno. 500 for gears and installation.
#4
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The LS6 cam will give him NO low end kick.
You will want a stall converter, since you don't plan on racing much, a 3000 stall will suit you nicely, and work well in traffic. Headers will be next. QTP's are the best out there, but they will run you $700 just for the headers. Also get a lid, Doesn't really matter which one, they're all the same. Then a small cam....something along the 220/220 lines, probably no more lift than .550. And tires, you will need tires so you don't just spin away all your new found power. Nitto drag radials work well as a daily driver tire, and they hook pretty well.
You will want a stall converter, since you don't plan on racing much, a 3000 stall will suit you nicely, and work well in traffic. Headers will be next. QTP's are the best out there, but they will run you $700 just for the headers. Also get a lid, Doesn't really matter which one, they're all the same. Then a small cam....something along the 220/220 lines, probably no more lift than .550. And tires, you will need tires so you don't just spin away all your new found power. Nitto drag radials work well as a daily driver tire, and they hook pretty well.
#5
Administrator
It may sound extreme, but I'd go with a turbo kit. I've personally been in a 02 A4 Z28 convertible that made 450rwhp with only 7psi. That's through a stock converter, 3.42 gears, stock rear, etc. The car runs 12.0 @ 118mph I believe on street tires. VERY fun car to drive! Don't waste your time on little mods that will eventually add up and give you the power you want. Get it right from the start.
http://livernoismotorsports.com/n_ga...?gk=78&t=rides
http://livernoismotorsports.com/n_ga...?gk=78&t=rides
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#8
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I'm trying to do the same thing you are with lots of Tourqe...my advice would be a VHP cam (Vincetti High Performace). They are a sponser here, and if you look on the right side of the main page you will see thier logo near the bottom. They are all about tourqe! Unfortunately not many people have them so i haven't been able to get to much feedback about their stuff. So if you decide to go with the VHP i'd like to know what you think ! THX! Oh yeah and all the other stuff (bolt ons would really help out in the long run! Good luck to ya!
#9
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Cut out, lid, converter and gears. If you commute 80 mins to work then I would stay away from drag radials, they will not last.
Cut out: $40 + $40 install
Lid: $120 (you can install this easily yourself)
Converter: $700 + $100 (tranny cooler) + $300 install
Gears: $500 includes gears and install
Some of these items you can find used on this board for a great price.
Cut out: $40 + $40 install
Lid: $120 (you can install this easily yourself)
Converter: $700 + $100 (tranny cooler) + $300 install
Gears: $500 includes gears and install
Some of these items you can find used on this board for a great price.
#11
Originally Posted by DaddySS
Lid, mild cam, converter, gears.
Btw, do you really know what lowend power does? It'll just make you spin a whole lot. Power will be good...in the rare case that you actually hook! And inadvertently getting the rear loose is not safe if you can't get it back. Just a heads up for you.
#16
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Originally Posted by tomaSS
If you commute 80 mins to work then I would stay away from drag radials, they will not last.
#17
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The converter will solve all of your problems. You will have more torque than you know what to do with. If that isn't good enough, slap on headers and a small dry shot of nitrous. You can't lose with that combo, easily into the 11's.
#19
Future_T/A_Owner
Sweet... I am so looking forward to next year when I can get car! Thanks for all of the info. guys, I plan on putting it to good use in the coming months before I make my purchase, so I then know exactly what to do to the car after I have it.
I do have a question.
How much will Parts + Labor on headers, catback, lid, stall converter, gears willl set me back? I don't want crap, but I also can't afford top-of-the-line racing products either. By getting an idea of what this stuff costs ahead of time, I can budget accordingly.
Thanks
PS: Will an automatic tranny WS6 Ram Air package have a real noticable difference in power from a standard automatic tranny formula/T/A after I add some mods it, or are they about the same?
I was just wondering if in you all's experiences that the Ram Air is more about looks, because I love the looks of the Ram Air or is it really worth the difference in power/handling. I know the Ram Air packages have suspension upgrades, but if I purchased a standard T/A without the WS6 package, and I add the mods that you guys recommended, would I need to upgrade the suspension? Would I be better off sticking to the WS6 and modding that, so I don't have to upgrade the suspension with basic mods described above? Can I possibly ask any more questions? Thanks again!
I do have a question.
How much will Parts + Labor on headers, catback, lid, stall converter, gears willl set me back? I don't want crap, but I also can't afford top-of-the-line racing products either. By getting an idea of what this stuff costs ahead of time, I can budget accordingly.
Thanks
PS: Will an automatic tranny WS6 Ram Air package have a real noticable difference in power from a standard automatic tranny formula/T/A after I add some mods it, or are they about the same?
I was just wondering if in you all's experiences that the Ram Air is more about looks, because I love the looks of the Ram Air or is it really worth the difference in power/handling. I know the Ram Air packages have suspension upgrades, but if I purchased a standard T/A without the WS6 package, and I add the mods that you guys recommended, would I need to upgrade the suspension? Would I be better off sticking to the WS6 and modding that, so I don't have to upgrade the suspension with basic mods described above? Can I possibly ask any more questions? Thanks again!
#20
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There won't even be a noticeable difference between the two before you mod them, let alone after. Just make sure that the car you buy has 3.23 gears, the way to tell this is by looking at the RPO sticker inside the drivers door. Code GU2 is 2.73's, an GU5 is 3.23's. You want GU5.