JBGRAYTA

So what's the deal that it is so difficult to run a 112 lsa or tighter on an a4 vice an m6? I've looked around, and the only real answer I got is that there is a greater load on an a4's idle. Wouldn't simply raising the idle on an a4 to say, 800-1000 fix most difficulties? I'm not sure why tuning is so difficult. I've never had an m6 car, so I don't really know. Is it due to the fact that it is easier to keep the car in a higher rpm band? As for me, I could care less for stock driveability, I don't mind the car shaking around, I just want to avoid some of the surging.
I ask because I am going for either an ASA cam (110 lsa), or something larger, like a G5x2, or tr 230/224. I love the sound of a lopy cam, and am looking for a killer torque curve. I'm not the type of person who wants to spend all this money on a cam that drives like stock, and no one knows I have a cam but me.
I knew I should've gone with an m6, damnit!

jrp

iTrader: (16)

are we talking tuned or untuned? when tuned there is no problem at all. its when you try and run a big cam untuned that there's issues because the in gear idle is like 500-600rpm. stock idle on the m6 is ~700-800rpm

gojo

iTrader: (12)

The bigger the cam the more of a problem. Higher stall converters help a lot. You're right about needing to raise the idle a little more. You will also need a slight amount of cruise affect. Which is one reason a high stall converter helps. With an A4 you can't just push in the clutch as you are stopping, so it takes more work to get transition to idle down to where the engine is not fighting the converter.

JBGRAYTA

thnx for the info. The car would be tuned of course.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Any 1/4 mile times with that SSF?

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

What GOJO said. I had a major idle problem with my baby cam on a 112 LSA for nearly a year (tuned, but, not well enough) ... surging and dieing at idle unless you let it run for 3-4 minutes. The problem is gone now ... just had a SS3600 stall coneverter installed. It went away when the 'verter was installed.

PREDATOR-Z

JEB99TA, just curious, what power are you putting down, and what is your 1/4 time?

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Dude, I couldn't tell ya'. I'll be dyno'ing in two weeks and heading to the track at about the same time. I'll post as soon as I get numbers.

Silver02

iTrader: (1)

My car stalls sometimes when I put it in gear. It has the stock converter. Will the rpm's drop less with a stall converter when I put it in gear? The car runs great once it's in gear and almost never stalls once it's warmed up.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Mine was surging at idle, as well. It was the resistance when putting it in gear and the lack of stall that made it die if I didn't let it warm up for a minute or two. After it would warm up for a few minutes, it was OK ... even when I put it in gear. Once I had the Yank SS3600 installed, it immediately made the problem go away.

It's absolutely a tuning issue the day I installed the cam, but, the installation of a higher stall converter took away the resistence of putting it in gear. This is what made it stop completely. Though, it still doesn't change the fact that my tuning is off ... just not suffering the embarrassment of the engine dieing, anymore.

Silver02

iTrader: (1)

How did the converter make your idle problem go away? I've got an A4 on a h/c car with some idle issues and am thinking of getting the exact converter you have.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Stalls it at idle, I guess, instead of locking it in gear. Now I just crank up the car, put it in gear and go ... without worrying about it dieing. I did turn my idle screw out about a full turn and a half. When it's tuned, I'll turn it back down. Right now, it's running super rich.

gojo

iTrader: (12)

If it only stalls when the car is cold, raise the IAC Park values. Try 1.0 at 40C and 2.0 at 20C and below. This helps when IAT's are cold.