BB

iTrader: (7)

I have a LS1 block and a LS6 block. I put the new Eagle 4" crank in the new block to check the reluctor wheel run out. It is about .009 as it was when shipped by Eagle. However, the wheel makes the slightest contact with the block. At first I thought is was damaged due to my small brain (see main cap removal thread). So, I pulled the crank and put the new bearings in the old LS1 block and the reluctor wheel is still making contact with the block. Is this contact normal?

I can turn the crank pretty easily by hand until I hand tighten down the caps. Then on the LS6 block I can not turn the crank by hand at all. Is that to be expected? I didn't put the caps on the LS1 block so not sure if I would get the same outcome.

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

not normal, after caps are torqued to spec, you should be able to turn crankshaft through complete rotation

BB

iTrader: (7)

Should there be no contact of the reluctor wheel with the block? I will tighten down the caps on the LS1 block and see if it turns by hand. If it doesn't turn between the two blocks it must be a bad crank.

CharlieLed

iTrader: (1)

Crank should turn freely with caps on and bolts torqued, if not, then you have problems. Time to mic the crank and the ID of the installed main brgs, use plastigage if you don't have the correct mic. The reluctor wheel is another matter altogether...

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

No contact is normal, verify main cap locations on new ls6 block, torque to spec with bearings and check size with dial bore gauge. bearing clearance should be .0015-.002 on mains. if you dont have tools to do this, use plastigage

BB

iTrader: (7)

Thanks.

If the wheel is making contact going through all this is not needed yet since the crank/wheel is bad? It contacts the block on both blocks.

Is there a gap spec for the wheel from the 5th cap?

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

experience would say .010-.015 on reluctor wheel to #5 main. remember, most piston manufacturers mark #8 piston so end user puts it in #8 hole, because it has been clearanced for reluctor wheel

BB

iTrader: (7)

All the diamond pistons came clearanced. I turned them all over, none were marked, and they all had the same clearance forthe wheel. I guess you get equal weight that way and no confusion on which piston to use.

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

JE also notches all of theirs too. Eagle finishes their cranks on the large side of size for the purpose of having enough material on the crank making the oil clearance changes on assembly so its probably tight by a thousandths or so. More than likely when you check your clearances you will have to polish about .0005"-.001" off of both the main and rod journals. That is atleast my experience with Eagle cranks.

10secondZ

iTrader: (24)

Sounds to me like the main bearing saddles are out of line...if you can turn the crank by hand untill u tighten the caps...that would usually indicate that you need an align bore or hone.If the runout was only .009" that is perfect...put a dial indicator on the center main journal with bearings in the block but no caps or bearings on the top....rotate the crankshaft slowly...if you get more than .0015 per hash mark, the crank needs to be straightened..but I would straight edge the main saddles first and make sure the bearing bores are straight.

Carter

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

First, I'm assuming you are keeping the proper caps with the block they came from.

Second, make sure they are all installed in the correct direction. 1 thru 4 should point in the same direction. 5 points the other way.

The crank will bind up if you have one or all of them flipped.

Where is the wheel making contact exactly?

It is pressed flush against the shoulder on the crank?

BB

iTrader: (7)

I will test all this tonight. The wheel is making contact on the its back side - with the main seats of #5 upper and lower cap. I was going to use a indelible marker on all of this to see exactly where is makes contact on the block. It seems like it is different on each block. I will do everything on the LS1 block that I know is good as the LS6 could be damage from my little brain.

The wheel is pressed on as far as it can go on the crank.

BB

iTrader: (7)

It appears that the wheel is slightly contacting the top of the main (not main cap). I have included a picture but it does not show the contact clearly. The run out seems to be about .007 if I read the dial indicator correctly.

It is a .001" dial and this is the 7th mark from the 0. Gotta be .007 right?

In the LS1 block I can turn the crank freely. You will see in the picture that the outer bolts are not in all the way but the inners are fully torqued. On the LS6 the crank is seized. Can't budge it. I think the contact is in the same place but it is greater. This is probably because I damage the block.

On both blocks the contact is in the marked area. On the LS6 the contact may be on the whole outer part of the wheel and lower main (saddle).


On the LS1 block is any contact OK? I can turn the crank no problem by hand but I can hear and see the contact of the wheel to the mains. Does this mean the crank is bad?

On the LS6 the contact keeps me from turning the crank by hand. Can I or a machinist grind down this part of the main on the LS1 or LS6 block to provide clearance?

As suggested above I have not put a straight edge on the mains saddles on the LS6 block. So, it is possible the blocks saddles are screwed up because of my ignorance and a align hone will correct this.

The real issue is whether or not I need to send the crank back or if corrections can be made to the block to make this work. My concern is that if the wheel if off then the ODBII could not work correctly.

BB

iTrader: (7)

T T T

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

if its only touching in an area then it's possible that the reluctor ring is slightly bent. When I put my engine together I had this problem. Somehow I must have slightly dinged the reluctor wheel. I put some marking dye on the wheel so I could see WHERE it hit and then just used a small hammer to "bend" it back straight (don't beat the living SH*T out of it.....just tap a little at a time) and it worked like a champ.


now if it is touching all around, I would still look into tapping it back some (the reluctor wheel is two plates tacked together and this could be the problem) but if that does not do it (you just need clearance) then it's possible that the register on the crank that the wheel mounts against is not right.

Boosted LS1

As posted above, you need to torque them up in the correct order and tap the crank forwards and backwards to set the endfloat. The last tap should be forwards to locate it properly BUT you haven't torqued the cross bolts up to 18 lb/ft. You should do this to make the casing true. Try this and see if you get it fixed.

I had a rover v8 which went solid until I torqued the cross bolts and then it was free

BB

iTrader: (7)

Everyone, thanks for the help.

I will finish the torque sequence on the LS1 and test again. After the first pass of the inner bolts is when you knock the crank backward and then forward. I did do that.

I will go get some dye and see how much we are contacting. I fear that on the LS6 block it is part wheel and part block that is the problem. Once I get this Eagle crank to work on the LS1 and we know the wheel is now good what about the LS6? Can I grind down the saddle area in the second pic above to get this to work?I am thinking I only need .001" to get the clearance.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

unless your LS6 block is warped, if the crank works in an "LS1 block" it will work in the "Ls6 block".......it's your crank.....

BB

iTrader: (7)

Caps are torgued in and in the LS1 block I have just a little bit contact on the outside of the outside reluctor ring - couldn't get marking dye today so I used indelible marker. On those patches of contact I used a hard plastic hammer. It is not taking much to get the needed clearance. Still have some contact but will have to wait until tomorrow to finish. I will get dye tomorrow to test fit in the LS6 block.

matey

stupid question, but you have the center thrust bearing in place correct?