Can I go w/stock 6.0 liter gaskets for my 408
#3
TECH Senior Member
If you want a "right" tight quench, better determine your piston/ block deck position and get gaskets that will give you a .035>.040 quench range. Some poeple go lower, but I don't like that for Street.
FYI (piston to block deck - COMPRESSED gasket thickness = quench)
A tighter quench will give you better combustion and reduce detonation.
FYI (piston to block deck - COMPRESSED gasket thickness = quench)
A tighter quench will give you better combustion and reduce detonation.
#4
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
If you want a "right" tight quench, better determine your piston/ block deck position and get gaskets that will give you a .035>.040 quench range. Some poeple go lower, but I don't like that for Street.
FYI (piston to block deck - COMPRESSED gasket thickness = quench)
A tighter quench will give you better combustion and reduce detonation.
FYI (piston to block deck - COMPRESSED gasket thickness = quench)
A tighter quench will give you better combustion and reduce detonation.
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#5
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (21)
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
If you want a "right" tight quench, better determine your piston/ block deck position and get gaskets that will give you a .035>.040 quench range. Some poeple go lower, but I don't like that for Street.
FYI (piston to block deck - COMPRESSED gasket thickness = quench)
A tighter quench will give you better combustion and reduce detonation.
FYI (piston to block deck - COMPRESSED gasket thickness = quench)
A tighter quench will give you better combustion and reduce detonation.
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (21)
quote from mike norris Tony's (AFR) "elaboration" i love the search button...i know this does not directly answer your question but i figured it would provide a little bit more knowledge to the thread
I think what Tony is getting at is that an optimal quench area is in the .035"-.040" area and work your way from there. Some will say that for every .010" added to the quench area over .035" is worth 5HP or so, compression still being equal. Maybe Tony will elaborate.
...The bottom line is that the "tightest" quench you can run without driving the piston into the deck of the head under running conditions will usually yield the best power results given the same CR. Tighter quench "tolerances" help to reduce detonation, provide an extremely efficient "burn", and helps completely "atomize" any fuel droplets left...also, there is no "dead space" which would waste some of the energy available from combustion. Some of the best running motors I've seen come in for a freshen up (back east when I was working @ SSRE) were scraping the carbon off the tops off the piston on the quench pad side and slightly "kissing" the deck of the head...thats when you know you have it "just right"....LOL