BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Alright here are the goals of my car:

1. Retain daily driver streetability
2. Make loads of power, but only when I want it, without touching mileage
3. Not kill the powerband with a "peaky" cam, see #1
4. A reliable setup, that isn't going to blow on me
5. This is an A4 car, will be stalled later with a built transmission

Now this pretty much narrows it down to H/C + N20. FI is out of the question...as much as I always wanted a blower, it just won't be practical. Plus its too damn expensive.

I have decided to go with the Patriot Stage II 243 assembled heads because its a killer deal. Also after looking at tons of cams I keep coming back to the TR230/224 .575/.563 112. This would make a great street setup.

With that said...if I were to upgrade my fuel system and run N20 later (not sure of the setup, haven't done any research yet) what would you change? Keep in mind, the car will be driven 99% of the time without the aid of N20, so I don't want to completely change the setup so that the 1% of the time I hit the button things are "perfect". Basically I need a compromise.

If this setup is bad for nitrous, let me know. But keep in mind I don't want to change to something that I won't want to be driving every day. Also, in keeping with the above, I don't want to drive around on a rich nitrous tune with retarded timing...I only want things to change "when" hit the button, otherwise remaining tuned for NA. Is this possible?

I would search, but unfortunately our search is down.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get. Been toiling over this for weeks.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

No input? Come on guys, sale ends today!

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I would think that you would want the opposite split on exh. and intake.
Like a 230/236 or a 222/226.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

I had wondered the same thing...do nitrous grinds typically want more exhaust duration? And if so would it affect driveability in a negative way?

That's what I was afraid of mainly, just looking for the answer...

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Yes they do. And another thing as far as nitrous goes is your LSA. Ideal is 114 on most "nitrous" grinds. I don't even spray my car, and probably never will and both cams are very good nitrous cams that i have ran or currently run.

Comp 222/226 .566/.569 114
Comp 244/248 .598/.598 115

The 222 cam had a more broad range of power, and still maintained that low-end grunt. The 244/248 is the opposite. That is what you said that you didnt want. High RPM range and starts making good power at 3800-4200.

You are going to want a pretty free-flowing exhaust for the most part, that still has really good velocity.

Hope this helps some.

PREDATOR-Z

It depends how much you shoot on it. I ran reverse 224/220 with up to a 200 shot dry with no problem.
The TR230 with PP 243 heads will be a great NA driver. THAT is what you should get.
You can shoot 100 dry with no tune change on 93/94 octane.
As far as fueling, if you decide wet NOS, then you need a pump, and if you go dry then youll need pump and injectors.

CBX

Do you think I would be able to shoot a 75 shot with my setup without a pump and injectors?

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

with your current mods you can probably shoot a 75-100 wet but you need bigger injectors dry.i'd probably go ahead and get a pump for the piece of mind and you will have room to grow incase you decide to upgrade.

PREDATOR-Z

That all depends at what duty cycle are your injector at. If they are 80% or lower then YES. Above that I would monitor your AFR closely.

LS1 BU

iTrader: (13)

I think a Comp XER 224/228 cam on a 114 . What size stall do you have. This would work great NA and Nitrous.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

It would be something around a 150 wet shot that I would go with. Also our "good" gas is 91 here , which is why I am going with the 64cc head and not the 59.

I think picking the best NA cam would be the right thing to do here since my engine isn't going to live most of its life on the bottle...and only sparingly.

I keep looking at tons of other cams but keep coming back to the TR230 in the end. Maybe I should just get it. But now I wonder if I should get a cam on a different LSA...

LS1 BU

iTrader: (13)

Do the TR230. Just make sure you have a good flowing exhuast setup. Or cutout.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Pacesetter Longtubes into a Rumbler X.

LS1 BU

iTrader: (13)

Sound like a great combo. Good luck with it.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

I can't help but think though, what if I would be better off with something like an F11-114?

FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 228"/230" .576"/.595" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 2200-6600 RPM range, fair idle

230 is my self-imposed limit of duration...any higher and it would get a bit rough to tolerate every day especially with my exhaust. Maybe the bump in LSA would offset the increase in exhaust duration over the TR230 and keep the idle/driveability about on par? Yet, be better for N20...

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Call Alan and see what he recommends to you. But I would say the F11 is a good choice, I don't care for reverse split cams myself.

Oh and BTW, you mentioned that the car would be stalled "later on". The converter is a VERY important component in your setup. Going heads/cam without one will make the car a dog and no fun to drive.

Get the converter first or at the same time. I know I have an M6, but I had a low 11 sec stalled A4 previously.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Disagree. The stall speed needs to be chosen based off the engines powerband...you need to do the engine first, trans/converter second.

Besides I need tax return money for that

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Ok go ahead and get your heads/cam and drive it around like that. You will get your *** handed to you by bolt on a4s with converters.

Everything works together as a package. You have to have all your parts complimenting eachother to acheive the best or desired results.

Just deciding on what cam/heads you want to go with and then matching the converter to it is fine, but not buying the parts, installing them, and running around like that without a verter, that's *** backwards bud.

If you have to do one before the other, then decide on all the parts, and purchase and install the converter first if you can't have it all done at once.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

You honestly think i'm concerned with that? I don't race the car for a living, I drive it. Not everyone is made of money and I certainly can't do it all at once.
Yes, the "package" needs to be matched. The converter needs to be matched to the engine...you need the engine tuned, and some dyno data to see where your at first. A xxxx RPM stall will act differently depending what engine you put it behind.

LS1 BU

iTrader: (13)

I would pick the convertor first and then pick a cam. With the TR230 or F11 I think a 3600 or bigger would work great.