csxfbird

iTrader: (5)

Lately, the T/A's been acting up...sporadically, it doesn't want to start. When I turn the key, it'll crank, but won't fire. If I let it it sit for a few minutes, and try it again, it'll usually start up fine after that. But sometimes, I have to let it sit for 10 minutes or more before it'll "let" me start it again.

The car is bone stock, aside from a kill switch I wired into the window switch. However, the switch doesn't actually cut off the starter wire, it cuts off one of the power wires that goes to the starter kill relay. And without the switch depressed, the car won't even crank, so I doubt my starter kill is causing this problem. The batter was reading about 12.61 volts when off, which is a tad low, but not low enough to keep the car from starting. And it's not throwing any codes. So, what else could this be? Again, it only happens sometimes...but of course, it's always the most inconvenient sometimes.

LS1powerhouse02

iTrader: (9)

When you turn the key to the on position (not start but on) do you hear the fuel pump humming? Check to see if you can hear that next time you turn the key. If you dont hear it and it doesn't start then your fuel pump is going out. This is just the first thing that came to my mind. Good luck.

Brent

bastien

iTrader: (1)

I used to experience the same thing 6 months ago, but for some reason that problem wen t away and now I can get her started withing 3 seconds. sorry I cant help :/

dyls1

iTrader: (11)

This was how my car acted when I needed to replace the computer the second time. It had gotten wet somehow living on the firewall and the terminals were kinda crusty, cleaning them didn't fix it so had to replace it again. But when mine was acting up the car would throw over a dozen codes each time. Is your ses light on?
Doug

S1LV3R

iTrader: (5)

I heard something like this before. I'm not positive on this, but someone once said there is a relay for the starter and one for the ignition. Both are under the hood. Switch the two and if the car doesn't turn over then you know the relay is bad/going bad.

csxfbird

iTrader: (5)

LS1powerhouse02, yes the fuel pump is functioning as far as I can tell, that was one of the first things I checked for. It does hum whenever I turn the key to "On".

dyls1, nope, no SES lights.

S1LV3R, if you could get me some more info on this, I'll definitely have to check this out.

Thanks for the input guys. It gave me a lot of problems this morning, and once more after that, but it's been starting fine since earlier.

ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

Sounds silly..but what are your plugs like? Mine were pretty oiled once and i had the same thing happen, swapped plugs and it was fine.. check the wires to..

speedo

iTrader: (15)

1st thing to do is get a fuel pressure gauge and test the pressure off your driver side rail when you crank it over without it starting to see if you have PSI.

Kinda sounds like a fuel issue. Might have a bad check valve in the fuel pump which will cause it to "leak down" on a cold start.

How old is the fuel filter?

Josh

iTrader: (9)

I had a similar problem when my ignition relay decided to stop working. If the car gets progressively worse, that may be the problem. As was stated above, the ignition relay is located with the fuses in the engine compartment. It's definitely a quick and easy place to start.

If I'm not mistaken, this can also happen when your cam and/or crank sensors are "confused." You may want to do some research on the effects those can have on your car starting or not starting.

Josh

speedo

iTrader: (15)

I was thinking crank sensor also, but I would think it would be backfireing big time if that was the case..

I had one let go on the dyno one time and my ears are still ringing from the backfires......my wires melted together on the cranksensor..

csxfbird

iTrader: (5)

Apache, the plugs have been replaced within the last 4,000 miles, so I think they're still ok.

I took Josh's advice, and I switched the starter and ignition relays, and it's been starting fine ever since. I was under the impression that if the ignition relay was bad, switching it with the starter relay would cause the car to not even crank, but like I said, it's been fine since.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

try flooring it when you try to start it. if that works then its your coolant senser.

jermzz

iTrader: (18)

Try to push start it when it's acting up, if it starts that way you can eliminate a few things. If it doesnt start, it's probably pcm related.