Porting Oil Pump: Pics or How-to's?
most people shim the spring about .100" I posted som pics on here earlier on the week. I'll see if I can dig them up. You basically want to remove any casting flashing and smooth out the entrance/exit holes.
.100 minimum. LME suggest .150, i also have one of the red springs so i may try that.
yeah thats all im gonna do(debur/ chamfer the inside). and smooth the inlet and outlet. theres some major edges i can see on the larger opening. 1/16" ridge!
and the smaller hole has some small ridges. which way does the flow go?
large opening to small opening?
or small opening to large opening?
i think its big to small.
yeah thats all im gonna do(debur/ chamfer the inside). and smooth the inlet and outlet. theres some major edges i can see on the larger opening. 1/16" ridge!
and the smaller hole has some small ridges. which way does the flow go?
large opening to small opening?
or small opening to large opening?
i think its big to small.
Last edited by STANG KILLA SS 2; Feb 23, 2006 at 04:20 PM.
Porting the oil pump inlet and outlet are really very easy in my opinion. First, I would suggest you practice on some kind of old aluminum casting if you have not worked with a die grinder before. I didn't shim my pressure regulator spring and I still picked up about 5 to 20 PSI (RPM dependent) just because the flow efficiency is improved (about 60 PSI at 2,000 to 2,500 RPM's and up-wards of 80 PSI at 5,000 to 6,000 RPM's).
Basically, you need to study the natural flow of the intake port and get rid of any obstruction/flashing, etc. and streamline the flow from the pump inlet to the channel leading to the interior of the gerator. On the outlet side, the factory pump just has a hole drilled into body of the pump. This needs to be opened up into a cone shape. Also, go into the passage where the outlet connects to the front oil journal of the block. That can be smoothed and blended into the bottom of the cone area.
I took these photos before I put a sanding roll on my die grinder to smooth every thing out. Then, it was getting late, so I cleaned the pump parts, oiled and reassembled the pump. The parts should be inspected and measured for wear before you waste any time on porting. My pump had about 40,000 miles on it when I did the work and it had no scoring, wear marks, etc. Also, I had good to excellent oil pressure before. I just ported the pump since I had to pull the crankshaft timing gear to install my new timing set and I wanted to inspect the pump while it was easy to do. Porting the pump increases its efficiency, increases it volume and pressure and reduces the horsepower loss for a given flow rate.
All my best,
Steve
Basically, you need to study the natural flow of the intake port and get rid of any obstruction/flashing, etc. and streamline the flow from the pump inlet to the channel leading to the interior of the gerator. On the outlet side, the factory pump just has a hole drilled into body of the pump. This needs to be opened up into a cone shape. Also, go into the passage where the outlet connects to the front oil journal of the block. That can be smoothed and blended into the bottom of the cone area.
I took these photos before I put a sanding roll on my die grinder to smooth every thing out. Then, it was getting late, so I cleaned the pump parts, oiled and reassembled the pump. The parts should be inspected and measured for wear before you waste any time on porting. My pump had about 40,000 miles on it when I did the work and it had no scoring, wear marks, etc. Also, I had good to excellent oil pressure before. I just ported the pump since I had to pull the crankshaft timing gear to install my new timing set and I wanted to inspect the pump while it was easy to do. Porting the pump increases its efficiency, increases it volume and pressure and reduces the horsepower loss for a given flow rate.
All my best,
Steve
Last edited by Steve Bryant; Mar 15, 2006 at 06:06 PM.
