Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

You would experience more low end torque, but I would not recommend to advance the cam +4. My cam is in at 110ICL (+0) and it's the best way to give a balanced approach between mid-range torque and top-end hp.
Right now, I'm running 28 degrees at peak torque and 30 degrees at peak timing. This is from my old tune. I'm not getting any knock retard, but since this is a street car, I'll need to do more logging with the motor thoroughly heat-soaked to see if I get any then. Most likely, I'll back the timing off a little.
I'm using the AFR 8019 springs. They are a little bit beefier than the Comp 921s. They are AFR's upgrade spring on the 225s.
The lope is nice, but it's much more refined than the TRak cam or the 234/238 114LSA cam. Overlap is only 5.5 degrees at .050". As a comparison, an FMS 230/232 112LSA F-13 cam has 7 degrees of overlap, so even though my cam has a 110LSA, the overlap is actually less than some popular cams out there.

What's another interesting comparison is the duration at .200":
The F-13 is 150/148 degrees duration at .200".
My Torque Cam is 150/153 degrees duration at .200", plus I have LOTS more lift. So in a nutshell, I have more curtain area (valve opening under the curve) than cams of larger advertised durations. Gotta love these LSK lobes.
An XE-R cam of the same duration at .050" would be down on power about 10 rwhp and would peak about 100 rpm lower in rpm. The reason why is more curtain area with the LSK lobes and more duration at .200".
A 224/228 cam with XE-R lobes has 146/149 duration at .200" (compared to 150/153). The XE-R has .581/.588 lift as opposed to .637/.639. For an XE-R to make comparable power, it would need to be around 230/234 to make the same power.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

Nice write-up patrick, it's appreciated. Now just two words:

dyno graph!

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Patrick..did you have to notch your pistones to run this high lift cam? I have been thinking about a cam with specs a long those lines but not quit as much lift..I too am tired of not making much hp or torque in the lower RPM range..I would really like to have a very quick street car since I go to the track very seldom..and my camshaft makes all of its numbers from 4000 on up

PREDATOR-Z

This should be a sticky:

LIFTS HAVE LITTLE EFFECTS ON PTV CLEARANCE > IT IS DURATIONS AND VE'S THAT ONE HAS TO WATCH FOR.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

You will not have to notch pistons to run this cam. It is only 224/228 in duration at .050". Lift matters little with piston to valve clearance because when the valve is at maximum lift, the piston is nearly at the bottom of the cylinder bore. It's when the piston is approaching or departing top dead center that you get P to V clearance issues. The longer you hang a valve open (duration), the more chance you have of getting into P to V issues. Repeat after me, duration is what gives piston to valve clearance issues, not lift.

As an example: a 248/258 .500/.500" lift cam would have piston to valve contact.
A 224/228 .750/.750" cam would not.

gollum

iTrader: (1)

How about a 230/234 .640/.642 106LSA 106LC. Wouldn't these specs keep your DCR on target while giving use that cool sounding idle we all crave? Thanks for sharing Patrick.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Keith, that cam would have a mean idle, but it has a pretty early IVC...just 41 degrees. Mine is closer to 43 degrees. I think your 106 cam would run out of breath a little faster than mine, but there's no doubt it would be torquey!

That cam on a 108LSA with 0 advance would be very nice on the other hand!

SideStep

Pat,

Did you notice any change is the valve-train noise???

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

No, the LSKs are noisy just like the XE-Rs. No increase in noise though. They are certainly not what I would call stealth lobes, LOL.

gollum

iTrader: (1)

Since we are on the subject of lots of overlap and early IVC. What specs do you think we need to achieve that cool idle with lots of mid range power ?

Rescue Ranger

iTrader: (10)

awesome combo. i too went with a 224/228, but much less lift (.581/.588) on a 113. I'd love to compare dyno graphs! I gotta call East Side today, but I believe my car goes on the dyno tomorrow afternoon if everything goes smoothly today.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Personally, I think my Torque Cam achieves the lumpy idle (if you turn the idle down to the stock 800 rpm, it will sound like a Pro-Stocker) and excellent mid-range torque.

If you want a Billy Badass big duration cam, then a 239/243 .649/.653 108LSA (+1) would basically be a T-Rex with LSK lobes and a little bit tighter LSA. It would give you the excellent mid-range torque (because of good DCR), and will would scream on the top-end. The overlap would be the same as a T-Rex, but it would have about 7% more area under the curve. Itwould still fit under stock heads.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

well, Id also like an answer to the question. does this cam require extra clearance added by notching the pistons? or your other cams for that matter?

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

This question was answered in post #25.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Any chance of getting a vid of your idle, as well as your idle RPMs? I'd like to know what this sounds like.

ProjecT 9

iTrader: (6)

patrick i wish i lived close to you. i'd pick your brain of all your cam knowledge and be there assisting you in all your setup changes just so i can learn more...i really need a knowledgeable guy to show me some things...congrats on the new setup though...looking forward to seeing a graph

gollum

iTrader: (1)

Patrick,
What is your vacuum reading @ idle and what is the minimum needed for descent streetability. I have a vacuum gauge but where do I plug it in to get a reading on my SS?

spazzyfry123

iTrader: (4)

SideStep

You can tap into your brake booster vacuum line... it runs from the back of the intake...

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Same here!