Oil still in my coolant.....dammit
#1
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Oil still in my coolant.....dammit
I was hoping the new radiator solved it because the crack was right near the tranny fluid fittings, so I thought it was tranny fluid getting into the coolant. But I checked my coolant today and there's dark little clumps of sludgy **** floating around and stuck all in the radiator cap spring coils.
So, the radiator isn't the problem and the head gaskets are brand new, also the heads were checked and have no cracks......so what else can allow oil or tranny fluid into my coolant?
Also, I burned 2 quarts of oil in the past 350 miles
But its running like a brand new engine with no smoke coming from the tailpipes.
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So, the radiator isn't the problem and the head gaskets are brand new, also the heads were checked and have no cracks......so what else can allow oil or tranny fluid into my coolant?
Also, I burned 2 quarts of oil in the past 350 miles
But its running like a brand new engine with no smoke coming from the tailpipes.
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Did you get a machine shop to check if a sleeve/s dropped? Its a very common problem with the early sleeved Ls1 blocks.....Thats my guess. Try a cooling system pressure test. It should hold pressure...If it does I have no idea. Good luck man.
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there might of still been some stuff in the block flush the cooling system. then check it again. also like mentioned pressure test the cooling system. did the shop check and see if the heads were not warped. what kind of gaskets are you using? (mls or composit) although remember be carefull when checking the cooling system for leaks because if the oil is entering the cooling system the when testing it the coolant is gonna go into the oil. you have to remember your cooling sys runs at 15 psi and the oil is at 40 psi which do you think is gonna win. i have had an issue with mls gaskets leaking coolant one one of my motors and changed them to composit and had no more probs.
good luck
good luck
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#8
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Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Did you get a machine shop to check if a sleeve/s dropped? Its a very common problem with the early sleeved Ls1 blocks.....Thats my guess. Try a cooling system pressure test. It should hold pressure...If it does I have no idea. Good luck man.
I checked each sleeve with a razor blade by moving it over the seem between the block and sleeve, to see if I could feel it. A few of them were very very slight, but I couldn't tell if they were dropped. If they were it was like a matter of a nats ***, like nothing at all.
BUT....how can oil get into a dropped sleeve? How does oil get near that seem, I don't see how it can.
If I have a crack in my block, how can I tell? I can see oil getting into my coolant this way easier than through that seem in the sleeve and cylinder wall.
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Originally Posted by sleepersilverado
there might of still been some stuff in the block flush the cooling system. then check it again. also like mentioned pressure test the cooling system. did the shop check and see if the heads were not warped. what kind of gaskets are you using? (mls or composit) although remember be carefull when checking the cooling system for leaks because if the oil is entering the cooling system the when testing it the coolant is gonna go into the oil. you have to remember your cooling sys runs at 15 psi and the oil is at 40 psi which do you think is gonna win. i have had an issue with mls gaskets leaking coolant one one of my motors and changed them to composit and had no more probs.
good luck
good luck
.
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Originally Posted by mcamp001
do you have a power steering cooler in the upper rad hose? That was my problem
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If it were me, I'd drain the oil, leave the bolt out of the pan, then pressurize the radiator with a pressure kit at 15-17 psi. If the block has a crack, then the procedure should reverse sending coolant into the oil galley since it is no longer pressurized. Your pressure gauge should loose pressure and if the crack is large enough, then you should get coolant coming from the pan.
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
If it were me, I'd drain the oil, leave the bolt out of the pan, then pressurize the radiator with a pressure kit at 15-17 psi. If the block has a crack, then the procedure should reverse sending coolant into the oil galley since it is no longer pressurized. Your pressure gauge should loose pressure and if the crack is large enough, then you should get coolant coming from the pan.
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