Drilling 1/2inch holes in lifter trays?
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Drilling 1/2inch holes in lifter trays?
In my LS1 book, it suggests drilling 1/2inch holes in the lifter trays to prevent the oil from foaming up at high revs. Anyone concur with this or is this a big no no?
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I saw this done on Horse Power TV. They said it allows the oil to drain back faster. I also heard people on the site say its not needed in a street car. I don't remember the exact reason why though.
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Straight out of "How to build High-Performace Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's"
A good trick to improve the oil control in a hot rod Gen III V-8 is to drill these 1/2-inch drain holes in the lower face of the lifter retainer trays above each lifter. On a production engine, having engine oil pooling here is acceptable, but on a high-rpm engine, having oil lying around only costs you power and causes the oil to foam and get hot."
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I know of several well known engine builders who are and have been doing this for awhile now....seems to be a good modification in bigger cubed, turbo, blower applications, and higher RPM cars. Allows the oil to drain back more quickly and not allow a pooling effect which causes foaming and excessive heat .....meaning less HP. I look at it this way, it's an easy thing to do for saving HP!!
#7
I have done this in my motor. When you do this ensure:
1. That you drill the holes on the correct side so that the oil does drain back toward the outside of the motor.
2. Drill a pilot hole of approx. 1/4 inch first!
3. Ensure that the bottom of the 1/2 hole is flush with the inside of the lifter tray. This will take some measuring!
4. Be very, very careful when you are drilling becaaause these trays are very brittle and will crack easily!!!!!!! I cant stress that enough.
5. Ensure you have good oil volume before you do this. *** I did not say pressure***
One last note, changing lifters from a non-encapssulated type to an encapsulated type (Melling, Comp, etc.) will yeild better oil pressure and quiet the entire valve train.
1. That you drill the holes on the correct side so that the oil does drain back toward the outside of the motor.
2. Drill a pilot hole of approx. 1/4 inch first!
3. Ensure that the bottom of the 1/2 hole is flush with the inside of the lifter tray. This will take some measuring!
4. Be very, very careful when you are drilling becaaause these trays are very brittle and will crack easily!!!!!!! I cant stress that enough.
5. Ensure you have good oil volume before you do this. *** I did not say pressure***
One last note, changing lifters from a non-encapssulated type to an encapsulated type (Melling, Comp, etc.) will yeild better oil pressure and quiet the entire valve train.
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#10
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
You bought new lifter trays on a head swap?
Is there a certain orientation the lifter tray should be in? They looked perfectly symetrical.
Is there a certain orientation the lifter tray should be in? They looked perfectly symetrical.
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Originally Posted by slt200mph
Any one have a photo of the lifter tray with the holes drilled for those of us who are imagination impared..
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
You bought new lifter trays on a head swap?
Is there a certain orientation the lifter tray should be in? They looked perfectly symetrical.
Is there a certain orientation the lifter tray should be in? They looked perfectly symetrical.
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Originally Posted by kungfuteabag
I saw this done on Horse Power TV. They said it allows the oil to drain back faster. I also heard people on the site say its not needed in a street car. I don't remember the exact reason why though.
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Originally Posted by 2blue
HorsePower TV shows are often re-run several times, so you might have seen the two shows out of chronological order.