Can't get the crank pulley off?
 

Have you ever had that problem where you're trying to pull the crank pulley off but the pulley is hitting the back of the head of the crank bolt even though the bolt is all the way out of the threads? Sucks, right?

So, you go to Home Depot to see if they have a bolt of the same size but longer. They don't have it. You check Loew's, too, but no luck. How are you going to get this bitch off? :bang:

Well, the head of the bolt is pretty big, and it doesn't need to be. If it just didn't have that shroud on it the pulley wouldn't touch it and the pulley could come right out. Here's my solution to this...

http://www.ash-can.com/hosted/images/crank_bolt.jpg

Just a little while with a hack saw, a vice, and a bench grinder took care of this problem for good! Oh, and to whoever at GM decided that the LS1 crank bolt needed to be only 103mm long, FUCK YOU!!! :upyours:

Lol, nice rant! :jest:

What kind puller were you using?

I was using some puller I rented from AutoZone. It's just your typical 3-bolt puller. It really doesn't have anything to do with the length of the crank bolt, though.

what are you going to use to seat the pulley back on the crank? That formed washer or "shoulder" is there for a reason.

This is the reason i began to love my ARP bolt. Made removal easy, and trying to install the new pulley with the old bolt wasn't going to happen, again ARP bolt to the rescue, used that to get the pulley on the crank far enough to use the old bolt again. Best 15 bucks ever...

if you were using a 3 jaw/bolt puller why was the bolt still in there? If it was because the puller had a pointed end why didn't you just use a different bolt to block the hole. By block it I mean protect the end of the crank...

When you buy the right tools, there is no bitching. Search is your friend. :)

The bolt should be removed and puller should be pushing against the end of the crank like stated here.

NEVER use a bolt to pull the pulley back on. Insert a threaded rod and nut and washers to pull it on - too many chances to damage the threads by using a bolt.

I have another install tool. It's got a real long bolt on it... too long to be used with the puller, in fact.

The bolt going through the middle of the puller was smaller than the crank bolt, so it would just go straight into the crank. I've never heard of someone having the puller push off the crank itself. That seems like a bad idea. In any case, this is a perfectly safe and easy solution.

I have an installer tool that I bought from a member of this board with a stud and a piece on it that you turn to seat the pulley. I don't use the crank bolt for seating.

I rented a 3 jaw puller from Advance Auto Parts and it has a cone piece that sits on the end of the threaded rod that seat on the end of the crank and then you just crank it down adn it pulls the pulley off.

I also went down and bought a 180mm long bolt with the same thread pitch and used that to pull the new pulley on the removed it and did the torqueing procedure.

dude just some food fo thought; when you pull the pulley off in that manner you exert a shitload of stress on those threads since there are one a few holding the bolt in. instead, pull the bolt all the way out and place a socket inside the puller I think I used a 9/16 and use that for the leverage. that way I was appling force to the snout of the crank instead of the threads.