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looking for a little help removing k member

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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:02 PM
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Default looking for a little help removing k member

hey guys, i am curious about leaving the engine in the car and removing the kmember...


i know that i will have to support the engine somehow

i am thinking either with a metal bar from the strut towers and then a chain suspending the engine, or a jack under the very front of the transmission...

but what all is involved in pulling the k-member?

any detailed guide on removing with leaving the engine in?

i know i will have to unbolt the motor mounts...and from there i am looking for other useful bits of helpful info...

thanks

Louie
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:07 PM
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You putting in a chromoly K?
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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are you doing this on a lift or in your driveway?
Lift is easy, driveway, wow....
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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garage...no lift

not changing it

i wanna see the damage to the crank etc before i decide what i am going to do about pulling the engine, etc...
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:30 PM
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drop the entire kmember with the engine on it , imo with out a lift its hella hard to attempt to keep the engine up and long enough to drop the pan and inspect the crank...
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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why would it be more difficult without a lift?
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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Use a engine hoise
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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i would never use a steel bar as a brace in the way you are thinking , a hoist would be a great choice.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 10:38 PM
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ok, well using a hoist, i a still unsure of all the things that have to be done to pull the kmember...

what all do i need to remove?
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 12:19 AM
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I just got finished replacing my k-member and oil pan today in the garage on jack stands. It's been up in the air for about a week and I only work on it a couple of hours a night after work. It's not easy. You can go to bmr's site on a swap for one of their kmembers, here' the link http://www.bmrfabrication.com/instructions/km003.htm. When It came time to take the pan off I used a chain attatched to the front of one head where there's an empty hole and ran it diagonaly over a 4x4 to the other head and put a bolt in the back. The 4x4 was perched on the flat spots on top of the fender. I was a little leary using this method but I can tell you the motor is going nowhere, it might drop an inch or so from the chain slack, but it was very sturdy and it was supported this way for a week. Hope this helps
Paul
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AllThrottle4U
I just got finished replacing my k-member and oil pan today in the garage on jack stands. It's been up in the air for about a week and I only work on it a couple of hours a night after work. It's not easy. You can go to bmr's site on a swap for one of their kmembers, here' the link http://www.bmrfabrication.com/instructions/km003.htm. When It came time to take the pan off I used a chain attatched to the front of one head where there's an empty hole and ran it diagonaly over a 4x4 to the other head and put a bolt in the back. The 4x4 was perched on the flat spots on top of the fender. I was a little leary using this method but I can tell you the motor is going nowhere, it might drop an inch or so from the chain slack, but it was very sturdy and it was supported this way for a week. Hope this helps
Paul
awesome man

thanks!!
that is exactly what i was looking to hear

Thanks again!
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by AllThrottle4U
The 4x4 was perched on the flat spots on top of the fender.
Paul
I would be worried that the weight of the motor would crack those plastic fenders all to pieces, but I guess it didnt..
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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The 4x4 rests on the metal shock towers. I have done it this way as well. No issues at all. I have swaped a few this way.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Burger
The 4x4 rests on the metal shock towers. I have done it this way as well. No issues at all. I have swaped a few this way.
Ahh... He said fender, so I was thinking that the 4x4 was all the way across to the top of the fender, not the wheelwell. I can see it working now.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 09:44 PM
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i used a chain and my strut tower brace when i dropped my k-member to do rod bolts and motor mounts. worked great for me
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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ok, well the motor is suspended, but i cant seem to get the kmember out...


i cant get the a-arms to break free from the kmember...

the vertical bolt is unbolted(un nutted) whatever you wanna call it, but that bolt will not come out in either side, and the horizontal one, i cant get the bolt out because the steering is in the way...

what am i supposed to do about it?

thanks
Louie
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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No time to read all the replies, so this could be a repost:

Install a STB if you don't have one.

Take tie down straps and secure the motor to the STB

Now you can unbolt the motor mounts and drop the K-member.

That's exactly how I did it in my '94 and worked great.
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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i have that done with a 4x4...but my biggest issue is that i cant get the damn kmember down now...

i cant get it to come apart from the a arms and i am not too sure how to completely remove the a arms to come with the kmember either...


Please check my post right before this one and let me know what you think

thanks

Louie
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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I think its easier to drop the k member with the a arms still attatched. Just take the whole assembly off. Undo the shocks from the top, undo the two break lines (FR and FL on the booster), undo the motor mount bolts, undo the speed sensors, undo the 6 bolts holding the k member to the frame and drop it slowly. id recommend using the 4x4 method above, or if you have a cherry picker, use that to suspend the motor while you drop the k member. this way everything goes back together easily aswell.

EDIT: youll have to undo the two power steering line that go from the resevoir to the rack and the return line also.
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jermzz
I think its easier to drop the k member with the a arms still attatched. Just take the whole assembly off. Undo the shocks from the top, undo the two break lines (FR and FL on the booster), undo the motor mount bolts, undo the speed sensors, undo the 6 bolts holding the k member to the frame and drop it slowly. id recommend using the 4x4 method above, or if you have a cherry picker, use that to suspend the motor while you drop the k member. this way everything goes back together easily aswell.

EDIT: youll have to undo the two power steering line that go from the resevoir to the rack and the return line also.

Everything is done, except for the brake lines and the strut bolts...

what do i have to take out to get the struts out?

the two nuts and two torx on the top? or something else?

Thanks

Louie
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