Callies crank vs. Eagle crank
#21
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Originally Posted by Ryan02SS
I know of quite a few guys running blown BBC Marine setups with close to 800hp. They are running 4340 Eagle Cranks and H beams. In our Marine races we hold WOT for over a minute in some cases. That should tell you something right there.
Andrew
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It is my understanding the Eagle requires some extra work to be balances and clear. Then like states Eagle is Chinese and Callies is American.
#25
Let's get back to the hot poon analogy....LOL (We would all rather have it...some pay for it and others don't).
Actually, thats not very far from how I feel...regarding the cranks of course.
I have built many motors using Eagle cranks and I haven't personally experienced any failures including seeing many BBC's in the mid 800's using Eagle H-Beams....some of them had the L19 bolt upgrade for a little more peace of mind.
IMO, some of the bad rap Eagle gets is due to the fact they are affordable, many people buy them, some of which have no right assembling an engine (parts fail....parts of course are blamed).
Will an Eagle motor fail if assembled properly?....highly unlikely. Will a Callies fail in the same scenario?.....IMO even more unlikely as it is also my opinion that QC is a notch higher with the more expensive (and MUCH better looking) part. I also happen to know most of the guys at Callies and I feel they all really give a ***** about the parts they are producing.
I am actually building a 403 LS2 engine right now and upgraded the rotating assembly to a Callies dragonslayer and Compstar rods. The finish on all the journals is ridiculous and in 20 years this is one of the only cranks I checked the center main for run-out and literally had zero....most cranks (even very expensive ones) have at least a few tenths. Point is the machining looks and is spot on.
Another big perk is the Callies piece weighs 6 lbs less than the last 4" Eagle I actually installed in my personal 383 motor (it came with the SSRE rotating assembly). Thats a lot of rotating weight reduction and I will bet you worth a few ponies on the chassis dyno and at the track....another perk I felt was worth mentioning here. It's also worth mentioning I have run my 383 hard including a few missed shifts which happens to the best of us and my Eagle crank is still in one piece....ironically however my 383 rotater came with the CompStar rods so they are doing a nice job as well.
In the end, is it all worth it? Its kinda back to the poon scenario again....to some yes and to others no. If you're on a budget and trying to do alot with a little, your money is probably better spent on a different camshaft or better heads (shameless plug I know....). If you have a few extra sheckles left after planning your new engine IMO, the little bit extra piece of mind and the luxury of looking at that much nicer, lighter part as your dropping it in between the main saddles is all worth it. Higher HP cars that plan for lots of boost or a serious N/A piece that may see alot more RPM should definately take the plunge IMO.
Much like cylinder heads, it's nice to know there's a crank out there for most people's needs and budget....you just have to figure out where you fit into that picture, but in life, it seems I have never regreted buying the better (arguably) more expensive option.
Tony M.
Actually, thats not very far from how I feel...regarding the cranks of course.
I have built many motors using Eagle cranks and I haven't personally experienced any failures including seeing many BBC's in the mid 800's using Eagle H-Beams....some of them had the L19 bolt upgrade for a little more peace of mind.
IMO, some of the bad rap Eagle gets is due to the fact they are affordable, many people buy them, some of which have no right assembling an engine (parts fail....parts of course are blamed).
Will an Eagle motor fail if assembled properly?....highly unlikely. Will a Callies fail in the same scenario?.....IMO even more unlikely as it is also my opinion that QC is a notch higher with the more expensive (and MUCH better looking) part. I also happen to know most of the guys at Callies and I feel they all really give a ***** about the parts they are producing.
I am actually building a 403 LS2 engine right now and upgraded the rotating assembly to a Callies dragonslayer and Compstar rods. The finish on all the journals is ridiculous and in 20 years this is one of the only cranks I checked the center main for run-out and literally had zero....most cranks (even very expensive ones) have at least a few tenths. Point is the machining looks and is spot on.
Another big perk is the Callies piece weighs 6 lbs less than the last 4" Eagle I actually installed in my personal 383 motor (it came with the SSRE rotating assembly). Thats a lot of rotating weight reduction and I will bet you worth a few ponies on the chassis dyno and at the track....another perk I felt was worth mentioning here. It's also worth mentioning I have run my 383 hard including a few missed shifts which happens to the best of us and my Eagle crank is still in one piece....ironically however my 383 rotater came with the CompStar rods so they are doing a nice job as well.
In the end, is it all worth it? Its kinda back to the poon scenario again....to some yes and to others no. If you're on a budget and trying to do alot with a little, your money is probably better spent on a different camshaft or better heads (shameless plug I know....). If you have a few extra sheckles left after planning your new engine IMO, the little bit extra piece of mind and the luxury of looking at that much nicer, lighter part as your dropping it in between the main saddles is all worth it. Higher HP cars that plan for lots of boost or a serious N/A piece that may see alot more RPM should definately take the plunge IMO.
Much like cylinder heads, it's nice to know there's a crank out there for most people's needs and budget....you just have to figure out where you fit into that picture, but in life, it seems I have never regreted buying the better (arguably) more expensive option.
Tony M.
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I have seen Eagle SBC cranks bust at the first main on a couple of motors. Same for scat sbc. I also notice the Eagle LS1 counterweights are taller so it requires more assembly clearancing time with piston skirts, and sometimes pin areas (with the 4.100 x 6.125 combos). I have callies 4.125 cranks here that clear 6.125 rod combos.
#27
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I also beleive Compstar is coming out with LS1 cranks priced around $850!! So Callies/Compstar will now offer a budget series crank and all out race Magnum XLites!!! Makes for ordering cranks alot simpler now, one stop shopping!!
Contact me for details.
Dave
Contact me for details.
Dave
#28
I know off hand that Callies used to offer the Racemaster which sells for $1600, but supposedly they discontinued it and replaced it with the Dragonslayer which is only $1300. I forget what's the difference between the 2, but the Dragonslayer was cheaper to produce and saved the public some money. I also know that Callies offers an even more expensive crank, but I don't remember the name. I didn't realize they were producing ANOTHER one, but cheaper.
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
I know off hand that Callies used to offer the Racemaster which sells for $1600, but supposedly they discontinued it and replaced it with the Dragonslayer which is only $1300. I forget what's the difference between the 2, but the Dragonslayer was cheaper to produce and saved the public some money. I also know that Callies offers an even more expensive crank, but I don't remember the name. I didn't realize they were producing ANOTHER one, but cheaper.
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Callies LS1 line:
Magnum XL: $2999
Magnum : $2399
Dragonslayer: $1535
Compstar (coming soon) ~$850
(Racer Pricing)
Magnum XL: $2999
Magnum : $2399
Dragonslayer: $1535
Compstar (coming soon) ~$850
(Racer Pricing)
Last edited by SLED28; 11-10-2006 at 12:58 PM. Reason: misprint
#33
I'm not going to get into the us versus them scenario other than stating the obvious and that is you get what you pay for in anything you buy. Weight , Sizing and precision do not come cheap if it did don't you the Nextel cup and NHRA boys would be using those cranks also and god forbid if you would have any trouble who are you going to call for Tech help down the road if you do. (China?)
Here are the differences for you on the Callies and CompStar Cranks
Magnum XL - This is the lightest crankshaft we make - Hence the price...
Magnum - This crank is fully machined and hand shaped. We will make it in any stroke from a 2.900 up to a 4.500 Stroke ( Yes you did read right - 4.500)
DragonSlayer - We only offer this crank - the stock stroke and a 4.00 stroke with 2.00 or 2.100 Rod Journals. As of right now this is the best bet for a street/strip motor. These cranks come internally balanced to your bob weight with your choice of reluctor style.
Now coming in January we will be offering the Compstar Crankshaft for LSX Engines. We have been offering this Offshore style of crankshaft in the old style chevy motors for over a year now. They will be available in the stock stroke and 4.00 Stroke only. These will be selling at $815.00 with your choice of reluctor style once again.
I hope this helps you in your decision!
Here are the differences for you on the Callies and CompStar Cranks
Magnum XL - This is the lightest crankshaft we make - Hence the price...
Magnum - This crank is fully machined and hand shaped. We will make it in any stroke from a 2.900 up to a 4.500 Stroke ( Yes you did read right - 4.500)
DragonSlayer - We only offer this crank - the stock stroke and a 4.00 stroke with 2.00 or 2.100 Rod Journals. As of right now this is the best bet for a street/strip motor. These cranks come internally balanced to your bob weight with your choice of reluctor style.
Now coming in January we will be offering the Compstar Crankshaft for LSX Engines. We have been offering this Offshore style of crankshaft in the old style chevy motors for over a year now. They will be available in the stock stroke and 4.00 Stroke only. These will be selling at $815.00 with your choice of reluctor style once again.
I hope this helps you in your decision!
#35
Was the info I posted above about the Dragonslayer weighing 46 lbs. accurate? Just curious.
What's the difference between the Dragonslayer and the Compstar and why such a big drop in price? January is a bit too far along for me as I hope to have my car back together sometime next month, but just still wanted to know.
What's the difference between the Dragonslayer and the Compstar and why such a big drop in price? January is a bit too far along for me as I hope to have my car back together sometime next month, but just still wanted to know.
#36
DragonSlayer is an ALL AMERICAN MADE Crankshaft.
Compstar is made in China on our own Forging Die we had made to our spec. and we also provide them with material specification they must abide by so we know we are getting a true 4340 crankshaft. - but final sizing is done here at Callies to the same specs. of our crankshafts.
Tony did post the correct weight for the 2.00 Rod journal dragonslayer crank. He just bought one of these about a month ago.
Compstar is made in China on our own Forging Die we had made to our spec. and we also provide them with material specification they must abide by so we know we are getting a true 4340 crankshaft. - but final sizing is done here at Callies to the same specs. of our crankshafts.
Tony did post the correct weight for the 2.00 Rod journal dragonslayer crank. He just bought one of these about a month ago.
#37
FormerVendor
Dragaholic,
I have used both of these cranks and we also just had a 2.000 crankpin Callies Dragonslayer here and it weighed 45.75 pounds on our shipping scale VS. 52 pounds on the Eagle 4.000 crank. If you can pay the 400 buck difference you are gettin a nicer crank and it is also considerably lighter plus with the smaller rod journals you are losing weight on the rods as well and there is slightly less friction at the rod jpournals. If you are trying to go fast NA it's usually worth it probably as the weight drop and rotating inertia will make you a lil faster no matter what power you are making.
I have used both of these cranks and we also just had a 2.000 crankpin Callies Dragonslayer here and it weighed 45.75 pounds on our shipping scale VS. 52 pounds on the Eagle 4.000 crank. If you can pay the 400 buck difference you are gettin a nicer crank and it is also considerably lighter plus with the smaller rod journals you are losing weight on the rods as well and there is slightly less friction at the rod jpournals. If you are trying to go fast NA it's usually worth it probably as the weight drop and rotating inertia will make you a lil faster no matter what power you are making.
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Was the info I posted above about the Dragonslayer weighing 46 lbs. accurate? Just curious.
What's the difference between the Dragonslayer and the Compstar and why such a big drop in price? January is a bit too far along for me as I hope to have my car back together sometime next month, but just still wanted to know.
What's the difference between the Dragonslayer and the Compstar and why such a big drop in price? January is a bit too far along for me as I hope to have my car back together sometime next month, but just still wanted to know.
#39
Ok...I think I caught on. The 4" Dragonslayer is offered with either a 2.00" or 2.100" rod journal. That is the portion that goes inside of the connecting rod. If you get a crank with a journal size of 2.00", then you have to get a set of connecting rods with a 2.00" crank pin which is the size of the bigger hole correct? Isn't the 2.100" the standard and most common size? What's the difference between the 2?
#40
whats wrong with the stock LS1 3.66 Crank for street combos with eagle H-beams or callies compstar rods and diamond pistons?
I have see the stock crank suport 700, 800 even 900 HP.
Cartech had built a 346 C5 Vette with twin turbos, i seen this car go a 8.90 at 150 mph
I have see the stock crank suport 700, 800 even 900 HP.
Cartech had built a 346 C5 Vette with twin turbos, i seen this car go a 8.90 at 150 mph