Is this possible? Smart people needed...
#21
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Terry
I've already fixed the problem you're talking about, and have you addressed the coolant shock issue yet, we all know that the 30-40 degree change in temps is not good for the heads, block and least of all the gaskets.
happy hunting
Jay Fisher
I've already fixed the problem you're talking about, and have you addressed the coolant shock issue yet, we all know that the 30-40 degree change in temps is not good for the heads, block and least of all the gaskets.
happy hunting
Jay Fisher
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[quote]
I've already fixed the problem you're talking about
<hr></blockquote>
Thanks for the input. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
Actually I'm going to try to set my pump up to run like stock when in street mode, but add a feature where with the flip of a switch (or maybe just a TPS WOT switch) you turn on "super cooling mode", which cools the cyl head as much as possible. I think this will be great for 1/4 mile racing with blower/turbo/n2o/high compression type applications. The best of both worlds! Does yours do that?
I've already fixed the problem you're talking about
<hr></blockquote>
Thanks for the input. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
Actually I'm going to try to set my pump up to run like stock when in street mode, but add a feature where with the flip of a switch (or maybe just a TPS WOT switch) you turn on "super cooling mode", which cools the cyl head as much as possible. I think this will be great for 1/4 mile racing with blower/turbo/n2o/high compression type applications. The best of both worlds! Does yours do that?
#23
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Terry
we cool the heads all the time at the correct rate for even cooling across the head to prevent hot spots and metal shocking. Terry I'll give you a little hint.... it's not just water flow
Good luck
Jay
we cool the heads all the time at the correct rate for even cooling across the head to prevent hot spots and metal shocking. Terry I'll give you a little hint.... it's not just water flow
Good luck
Jay
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let me add a little something, i understand your plight and we covered your issues and some you will come across when you fix these, and I applaud your work, but like i said we fixed these in the second of our four prototypes. Still waiting on the fifth prototype (production Version) and then we should be ready for release.
Jay
Jay
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Terry, are you gettin accurate temperature readings? 30F? So your coolant is cooler than it is on startup? <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
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Terry's comment...
"Does yours do that?"
Umm...Ours works, even with stock fans and stock stat.
another...
"super cooling mode", which cools the cyl head as much as possible."
It's called high speed air due to the fact that the car is in a forwards motion in our case.
Joe.
"Does yours do that?"
Umm...Ours works, even with stock fans and stock stat.
another...
"super cooling mode", which cools the cyl head as much as possible."
It's called high speed air due to the fact that the car is in a forwards motion in our case.
Joe.
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Jay, hopefully I can get mine working right in less than five revisions. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> I'm sure you and Joe have done a great job developing your pump. I'm not trying to take anything away from that or from your future sales. I'm simply having fun playing shade tree mechanical engineer, implementing a theory that I think can work, and sharing that information with like minded people on the board.
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[quote]
Terry, are you gettin accurate temperature readings? 30F? So your coolant is cooler than it is on startup?
<hr></blockquote>
My problem is I don't have accurate readings, just the temp gauge. The thermo is rated at 160 and is not fully opening, and the temp gauge on the dash is indicating around 130-140 on the highway (who knows how accurate it is). If I stop the car and unplug the fans, it heats up, the thermo opens, etc etc. I am hoping to get some pics up soon for you guys to see...
Terry, are you gettin accurate temperature readings? 30F? So your coolant is cooler than it is on startup?
<hr></blockquote>
My problem is I don't have accurate readings, just the temp gauge. The thermo is rated at 160 and is not fully opening, and the temp gauge on the dash is indicating around 130-140 on the highway (who knows how accurate it is). If I stop the car and unplug the fans, it heats up, the thermo opens, etc etc. I am hoping to get some pics up soon for you guys to see...
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[quote]
Umm...Ours works, even with stock fans and stock stat.
<hr></blockquote>
Then why so many revisions? <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
Umm...Ours works, even with stock fans and stock stat.
<hr></blockquote>
Then why so many revisions? <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
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Posted by Terry...
"Jay, hopefully I can get mine working right in less than five revisions."
We nailed it on the second revision, the last few have been appearance/Corvette application only, and the final is CNC production which also takes into consideration weight.
Another....
"I'm not trying to take anything away from that or from your future sales."
Terry, You can't, We are protected under 3 Pat. Pendings and 1 copyright using the only correct housing.
Joe.
[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]
[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]</p>
"Jay, hopefully I can get mine working right in less than five revisions."
We nailed it on the second revision, the last few have been appearance/Corvette application only, and the final is CNC production which also takes into consideration weight.
Another....
"I'm not trying to take anything away from that or from your future sales."
Terry, You can't, We are protected under 3 Pat. Pendings and 1 copyright using the only correct housing.
Joe.
[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]
[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]</p>
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I'm probably going to sound like a retard... <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
But is the water flowing backwards thru the thermostat in your set-up? If so, have you tried installing the thermostat backwards?
But is the water flowing backwards thru the thermostat in your set-up? If so, have you tried installing the thermostat backwards?
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Pat it does. I'd love to put it in backwards, but its molded in to a the outlet tube and turning it around is not possible. After I try slowing the pump down, making a special thermo will be the next thing I try.
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I've only replaced one thermostat on my car, and I didn't look at it carefully, but here's what I'm thinking.
A conventional waterpump is not "positive displacement" It doesn't really generate much pressure, it's too loose.
If your electric pump is "positive displacement", can it be forcing the thermostat open?
Just guessing about something I know nothing about. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
A conventional waterpump is not "positive displacement" It doesn't really generate much pressure, it's too loose.
If your electric pump is "positive displacement", can it be forcing the thermostat open?
Just guessing about something I know nothing about. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
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I can't believe I put a 160° in my car and didn't remember it was a one piece hsg/therm unit. Must be getting old... hehehe...
Terry, I've got a cheap-*** mill at my shop, I'm willing to bet I could mod a stock hsg UI've got one floating around) to accept a SBC therm. I'll go out and find it and look at it.
Terry, I've got a cheap-*** mill at my shop, I'm willing to bet I could mod a stock hsg UI've got one floating around) to accept a SBC therm. I'll go out and find it and look at it.
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The way it is facing right now, its forcing the thermo closed. ;( I drilled a hole to allow the pressure to get out, and the thermo will now open, but enough fluid goes through the hole to cause the engine to overcool. I guess I need to drill a smaller hole. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
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Stupid Question:
Does your water direction go INTO the block from the thermostat hose or out? Like I said, I know nothing about LS1 cooling systems.
I have one in my hand and the spring tension is ~5 lbs. I see a .125" inch hole in the flange with a check ball in it. What does the check ball do?
Does your water direction go INTO the block from the thermostat hose or out? Like I said, I know nothing about LS1 cooling systems.
I have one in my hand and the spring tension is ~5 lbs. I see a .125" inch hole in the flange with a check ball in it. What does the check ball do?
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Im thinking the same thing....
Isnt the hot water going around and then through the radiator before it his the thermostat?
Im wondering how much reverse cooling is worth... All this effort? ;-)
Perhaps the benefit of a EWP by itself is enough, and the reverse cooling is somethign to approach later.
I just think that the order (block,heads,temp guage,heater core inputs,thermostat,radiator with the pump somewhere in there) might be critical and not somethign you can so easily reverse. Dunno...maybe I am oversimplifying it. I dont know *exactly* how they do it in the LS1 anyways.
chris
Isnt the hot water going around and then through the radiator before it his the thermostat?
Im wondering how much reverse cooling is worth... All this effort? ;-)
Perhaps the benefit of a EWP by itself is enough, and the reverse cooling is somethign to approach later.
I just think that the order (block,heads,temp guage,heater core inputs,thermostat,radiator with the pump somewhere in there) might be critical and not somethign you can so easily reverse. Dunno...maybe I am oversimplifying it. I dont know *exactly* how they do it in the LS1 anyways.
chris
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[quote]Originally posted by Joe Prince:
<strong>Posted by Terry...
"Jay, hopefully I can get mine working right in less than five revisions."
We nailed it on the second revision, the last few have been appearance/Corvette application only, and the final is CNC production which also takes into consideration weight.
Another....
"I'm not trying to take anything away from that or from your future sales."
Terry, You can't, We are protected under 3 Pat. Pendings and 1 copyright using the only correct housing.
Joe.
[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]
[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]</strong><hr></blockquote>
Cool! THen surely as a cool guy on the board you can throw a few good ideas Terry's way so that he can continue to do what he's trying to do without harming anything. :-)
Since your intell. prop. is safe now, surely you can be a source of important info. Thats what the board is about, I think...
chris
<strong>Posted by Terry...
"Jay, hopefully I can get mine working right in less than five revisions."
We nailed it on the second revision, the last few have been appearance/Corvette application only, and the final is CNC production which also takes into consideration weight.
Another....
"I'm not trying to take anything away from that or from your future sales."
Terry, You can't, We are protected under 3 Pat. Pendings and 1 copyright using the only correct housing.
Joe.
[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]
[ December 12, 2001: Message edited by: Joe Prince ]</strong><hr></blockquote>
Cool! THen surely as a cool guy on the board you can throw a few good ideas Terry's way so that he can continue to do what he's trying to do without harming anything. :-)
Since your intell. prop. is safe now, surely you can be a source of important info. Thats what the board is about, I think...
chris
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Chris,
I know what Terry's problem with the pump is, but it's not mine. I don't feel inclined to share any proprietary info that I worked my *** off learning at the risk of destroying my own motor. So, I guess I'm not cool than, so be it.
"Cool! THen surely as a cool guy on the board you can throw a few good ideas Terry's way so that he can continue to do what he's trying to do without harming anything. :-)
Since your intell. prop. is safe now, surely you can be a source of important info. Thats what the board is about, I think..."
Chris.
The only thing I can say to Terry at this point is to literally "stop while you are ahead" The factory housing will not lend itself to this project that he has started. I have thousands of hours and dollars into the aftermarket design to truly and successfully reverse cool the LS1 motor without resistors, special line sizing or pump governors etc.
Terry, if you are still going to pursue it, I wish you all the luck in the world.
I know what Terry's problem with the pump is, but it's not mine. I don't feel inclined to share any proprietary info that I worked my *** off learning at the risk of destroying my own motor. So, I guess I'm not cool than, so be it.
"Cool! THen surely as a cool guy on the board you can throw a few good ideas Terry's way so that he can continue to do what he's trying to do without harming anything. :-)
Since your intell. prop. is safe now, surely you can be a source of important info. Thats what the board is about, I think..."
Chris.
The only thing I can say to Terry at this point is to literally "stop while you are ahead" The factory housing will not lend itself to this project that he has started. I have thousands of hours and dollars into the aftermarket design to truly and successfully reverse cool the LS1 motor without resistors, special line sizing or pump governors etc.
Terry, if you are still going to pursue it, I wish you all the luck in the world.
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Ah well....
At this point I have maybe only 200-300 hours in my car. "Thousands", being at least 2000, would mean a full year (250 work days) of 8 hour days, and I sure dont have that in my car. Maybe if I did I would understand completely. But at the point of having 200-300 hours in the car, Im still willing to tell anyone everything I learned about a home solid roller stock bottom end motor. People have even succeeded at it in ways I didnt and gotten far more power out of their car than Ive gotten out of mine. And oh yeah... Ive wasted 1000's of dollars... I think I have the only $6000 ARE stage 2+ heads <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> , Ive been making payments on a car thats been undrivable since February, and Im still at a best of only 411 hp through the exhaust.
I understand you have to make a living at it....If I could make a living at something relating to LS1's, I'd be all over it too.
I just dont think you are in danger of losing what you have worked so hard for by sharing what you know about what Terry is doing 100%. Maybe there are folks that are on this board waiting with CNC machine to find out what you did and evade IP laws to make a pump too. Doesnt seem likely enough to me. But Im not you...
chris
At this point I have maybe only 200-300 hours in my car. "Thousands", being at least 2000, would mean a full year (250 work days) of 8 hour days, and I sure dont have that in my car. Maybe if I did I would understand completely. But at the point of having 200-300 hours in the car, Im still willing to tell anyone everything I learned about a home solid roller stock bottom end motor. People have even succeeded at it in ways I didnt and gotten far more power out of their car than Ive gotten out of mine. And oh yeah... Ive wasted 1000's of dollars... I think I have the only $6000 ARE stage 2+ heads <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> , Ive been making payments on a car thats been undrivable since February, and Im still at a best of only 411 hp through the exhaust.
I understand you have to make a living at it....If I could make a living at something relating to LS1's, I'd be all over it too.
I just dont think you are in danger of losing what you have worked so hard for by sharing what you know about what Terry is doing 100%. Maybe there are folks that are on this board waiting with CNC machine to find out what you did and evade IP laws to make a pump too. Doesnt seem likely enough to me. But Im not you...
chris