1 BAD BIRD

iTrader: (3)

For what I have I believe my numbers are LOW <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">
http://home.ptd.net/~badbird/dyno1.jpg
Any thoughts

bob

[ December 18, 2001: Message edited by: 1 BAD BIRD ]

[ December 18, 2001: Message edited by: 1 BAD BIRD ]</p>

ChrisB

Can't download it on a dialup - to big. Try converting it to a jpg file (it's a BMP right now).


!!!!
Chris

monSSter1191

1) That is a very odd looking graph... I've never seen anything quite like it. Doesn't look right to me.

2) 305 power isn't bad assuming you have maybe a lid and/or cat-back but for any decent number of bolt ons... that number is a little low.

3) What kind of dyno was it (manufacturer)? Was it a Mustang or Dynojet? New or old? And are the numbers SAE corrected, if they're not corrected you could be fighting altitude and temperature in your dyno numbers. If yours is not SAE corrected the numbers may (probably will) be better.

roy

I am guessing you have a automatic transmission.
Doyou have a stall converter? If so I believe your torque should be higher unless you were running it locked.
Another thing I noticed is the pull was cut short . The car only seen 5500 hundred rpm .
I run it till it bounces off the rev limiter.

What mods do you have?

jmX

First, they shut down the run too early...they need to take it to the redline next time.

Second, that dyno graph is friggin huge. Not only is it over 2500 pixels wide, its over a meg to download.

Thrid, post your mods so we can judge if its low or not. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

hankd

Save that file as a .jpg and upload it again...too damn big!!

RyanJ

Go back and re-dyno. Mustangs read a little low, so 305 is pretty good. What are your mods. aren't you the black/yellow TA with heavy 17" TT2's? yeah, 305 is pretty good. expecially at 5500rpm <img src="gr_tounge.gif" border="0"> .

jpg dyno:

link: http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/yj/QA/eU/cu23793.jpg

1HoTTZ28

Go to a dynojet and make sure they start it around 2500 and shut down right at the rev limiter. What mods do you have anyway?

RyanJ

looks like FLP's, loudmouth, whisper lid and maf, Yank TT3000, and a HPP3. get to a dynojet. or see if that guy will re-dyno you for free since he screwed the pooch on that one.

Nick's WS6

That looks just like my dyno sheet except mine are 10hp/tq higher.

1 BAD BIRD

iTrader: (3)

[quote]Originally posted by 1 BAD BIRD:
<strong>For what I have I believe my numbers are LOW <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">
http://home.ptd.net/~badbird/dyno1.jpg
Any thoughts
SORRY <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0"> I shrunk the pic and added my sig.

bob

[ December 18, 2001: Message edited by: 1 BAD BIRD ]</strong><hr></blockquote>
***************************
1 BAD BIRD
1999 Trans Am WS6 #2415
black, A4, 3.23, TC
MODS
Firebat yellow decals, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil, Yellow painted calipers, Whisper lid and K+N filter, Yank TT3000 with an STR 3.0, FLP long tube headers with off road Y pipe, Hayden trans cooler, BMR STB, SFC, panhard rod, tubular LCAs and relocation brackets B&BTriflow quad tip, Autometer Phantom gauges, Lo-Tek A pillar duel 2 1/16" gauge pod, Taylor 10.4 mm 409 Pro Race wires, NGK TR55 spark plugs, American Racing Torque Thrust Iis NRAuto White face gauges MMS Ported and polished TB Tbyrne MAF ends Alpine CDA D857 HU
DYNO #s
TQ: 307.6
HP: 305.9
BEST TIME
When I get gonads J
PROUD MEMBER
Mid Atlantic F-body Association
Eastern F-body Association
***************************

BIGBOS

Yea a dynojet will give you some more accurate #'s

monSSter1191

durr.. the picture is so big I didn't notice it said "Mustang Dynomometer" at the top... *smacks forehead*

Yeah, on second glance, it looks like the guy started the pull late and ended it way too early cutting it off sharply on either end. I'd go back and complain and have them re-dyno if they refuse, threaten to spread the word about their shop, they will probably change their minds... the last thing they want is a $20,000 piece of machinery sitting idle.

1 BAD BIRD

iTrader: (3)

the shop is no more <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0"> so? what should my numbers be?

bob

xssive

iTrader: (123)

Did you bump your Speed limiter with the Hpp3? If so, then your dyno operator just sucked. Get on a dynojet.

monSSter1191

The shop is no more? Then consider your town/city/village/metropolis lucky to be rid of such a shop. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

Your numbers are what the dyno says simply because you don't know what they *could* be... Your car was putting those numbers down but like Ryan said it was at 5500rpms since the operator shut the machine or "recording" down before you were even close to redline. There's a pretty good chance your numbers are actually a little bit better than that.

See the dyno operator has a little remote controller of sorts and before the gas is mashed and the pull starts he pushes the start button, but right before he shuts it down, he pressed the off button, this basically just tells the computer what to record. What looks like happened with yours was the guy started, and pushed the button a couple seconds later, then let the button off way too early and probably shut it down way before redline. Did they only give you one pull or what? If no, were all of them this way? This is just operator error thats all.

[ December 18, 2001: Message edited by: monSSter1191 ]</p>

1 BAD BIRD

iTrader: (3)

Yes they where all like this. this was my first time ever at a dyno so I had NO clue what was to be expected <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0"> and no my rev limiter is not changed


bob

DriveATransAm

dont worry, i was on a dynojet (is that what flp uses?) and my car dynoed at 303 hp and like 317 tq (corrected)

however, my car runs high 11s in the quarter. Dont go by dyno numbers, ESPECIALLY if you have a converter.

1 BAD BIRD

iTrader: (3)

ggg