afr 205's /ms4 ??
 

I have a set of 59cc afr 205 heads on the way and i am wondering can i run the ms4 cam with no fly cut.

Or should i just keep my comp xr281 .228/.230 .571/.573 (.587/.589 with my pro mag 1.75's) and will this cam have plenty of room ?

I would like to go as big as i can with stock ls1 pistons.Anyone know of a cam that would work for me?

main thing is no cutting, good for a 150 shot and a rough idle !

any ideas or help would be appreciated

thanks,
mike

what head gaskets. cause i used my milled .030 61cc AFR 205s. with .045 and my 233-239 113TSP. and found the intake had just touched the piston. so always clay it and the 228 shoud fit maybe im guessin.....?

Thanks for the info.I would say the ms4 is out and the comp stays in.

I will check it first with an old stock gasket and then decide what i need to do.


mike

I have 59cc AFR's and with no gasket my 228/232 .588/.595 114+4 the intake and exhaust hit the pistons. So you better be careful with the cam you have. The MS4 is the biggest cam you can run on a stock engine. No milling. I think it would be a disaster with the 59cc heads. Clay it like camaro said.

[QUOTE=Pray]I have 59cc AFR's and with no gasket my 228/232 .588/.595 114+4 the intake and exhaust hit the pistons. QUOTE]

no gasket-i guess it would hit the piston to the valve

Well the engine is on the way out. Should be easy with the heads and intake off and the headers out.

Time for some new rod's and piston's

And a bigger cam

mike

Do you mean its failing, or that you are taking it out?

Plenty of people have flycut the stock pistons and run larger cams with milled heads. Aftermarket forged pistons are nice, but not exactly a necessity.

But if it's ailing, and especially since you're thinking 150 shot, its only money.

No. it only has 30k on it. Runs great. i have sprayed about 10 bottle's through it.

I just hate to pull the engine to take stock piston's to get cut and put it all back together.

are you saying i can get them cut while still in the block??????

That would make my day.

mike

Hell yea you can... It's not as hard as you think. All 8 pistons took ~4 hours being really careful not to over cut. After one or two you get a rythum going and no time at all... I cut mine .085". Get a bendable drill extension, a micrometer, duct tape and rent the dummy head from LGM... Good to go!

http://www.geocities.com/jody_abbott...arpics2025.jpg

waterbug1999

How did you prep the deck surface? Looks like it was sanded with a heavy grit paper & block. How did you keep all that mess out of the cylinders?

Do you mean during the flycutting or during prepping the deck surface?

I've read many times about covering the deck surface with duct tape to keep the shavings from getting into the bores. My question is two fold:
What did you use to clean the deck, as that is definitely not the factory finish?
How did you prevent any shavings, etc from getting into the bores while prepping the deck?

1st I used a 3M round rubber brush that attaches to a drill.. It was Green in color and bought it at Autozone.... I also used some scotchbrite bads and that worked really good.. But, there is hardly no way to keep anything going down in certain areas. Of coarse, be a little carefully around the area. The piston area, you can just blow that crap out, but if it falls in the cooling holes, nothing you can do really. Just take your time..

I guess your day has just been made, lol.

Yup. I am still pulling the engine out.I need to pull the p.o.s behind it that won't shift at w.o.t. It just look's like it will be easyer this way.

Plus i have the slp ported o/p to put in and with all the o ring story's I will be sure to get it right on the engine stand.

But now my new problem is witch cam.mainly because when i did not know better i bought the comp pro mag's 1.75-1 and that seems to really limit my option's or go back to stock rocker's

either way it is still sweet i don't need to do a tear down.

thanks for the help
mike

I was reading up in a car mag on checking P/V clearance. They said you could check it with or with out the gasket. Just add in gasket clearance to the final numbers. But thinking about it now with the 59cc combustion chambers the valves might hang down into the cylinder and at TDC could make contact. With the gasket in place I had .103" clearance on the intake and .130" on the exhaust useing Playdoo and a micrometer.

That might work on a Gen I small block chevy, but you're going to have problems turning the engine over without a gasket on an LS1. These engines have a poitive deck height, meaning the piston head protrudes above the deck surface at TDC.

That makes perfect sense. I couldn't figure out how with no gasket the valves touched the pistons and with a .054 gasket I had over .100 clearance on both valves.