01LS6SS

Your correctly WRONG! Correct, Metal does shrink when cold!!! The hole in the pulley gets larger because the metal retracts into itself. AND...the block of wood absorbs the hammering effect on the crank...I hammer on my crank everytime I shift! Think about the hit a crank takes when you shift to 2nd and the rpm's drop from 6000K plus to about 3500 in under a second!!! These things arent as fragile as people think.

-Dan

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

^^^ This guy is amusing. Yeah it hits when you shift but the force is completely the other way, when you shift you apply ROTATIONAL force, when you hammer on it you are applying LINEAR HORIZONTAL force. Two different things.

There is no need to bang hard on a balancer with a hammer, just tap it on a little bit to hold it and then use a bolt to push it on. My March pulley went on easily at room temp.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Dan, some us here are pretty good with technical stuff (some are even engineers (who me?)). Don't be offended or too close minded about things.

METAL THERMALLY EXPANDS- when you add heat it will increase about it's critical dimension, that might be length, inside diameter, etc.

Maybe you're confused because water expands when it shifts phases (when it's cold)? I don't know.

Also, you have a bearing surface to absorb any kind of axial loading along the crank. It does that, but is not intended to be hammered on. That'll catch up with you, and should be avoided unless it's more practical for you to rebuild often (maybe this is a race motor).

Ben T.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Also, there are even factors that you can multiply to actually calculate how much somethign will expand / or how much heat you'd have to apply to reach a certain dimension.

This might be a good read,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coeffic...rmal_expansion

(Cliff notes; If it's too much info for you- just read the 3rd sentence).

Ben T.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Also, if you shifted out of first at 6200, RPM would only drop to ~4200, and it better be a WHOLE LOT less than a second. Also, as pointed out this is torsional (twisting) loading on the crank.

Ben T.

c5chris99

Did you use dial calipers and check the crank and the pully? Sometimes you have to hone the pully to make it fit properly. If you have a interferance large enough heating the pully all day wont do anything for you but ruin it. check the ID of the pully and the OD of the crank to make sure within tolerance. You should have a spec sheet with your pully with the correct tolerances or check the manufactures website.

magius231

iTrader: (8)

well your kinda looking at it wrong. For what you are saying to actually happen, the metal molecules around the hole would actually have moved away from other molecules directory around it. I understand how your thought process is working on this one, but in this case its not quite right

DaddySS

Are you saying it wont even start to pass onto the snout?

Assuming you have the right pulley, just take the time to get a threaded rod, nuts (3) and washers (2) and pull it on, you do not want to damage the pulley or crank by taking a short cut on this step.

dub.ya.es.SICK

iTrader: (3)

this is RIDICULOUS! just put the dang pully on this isnt hard to do! thread closed.....cmon people

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Whoa man..........take a couple of deep breaths & repeat after me:

"Gooooooz frabbaaaaaah, gooooooz frabbaaaaaah...."

If that doesn't work, try:

"Woooooooosssssaaaaahhhhhhhh"

marv

iTrader: (40)

Haha...this is crazy...

How about we let the pulley reach room temp, go buy the longer bolt or the tool on here and just put the thing on and be done with it...haha...

01LS6SS

Ben, some us here aren't engineers and we know proper sentence structure. So edit your post to make some corrections. "Some us here" aren't offended or close minded, but some us dont like to toot our own horns cause we think engineers are superior beings. As it turns out, you are correct Ben. I was actually thinking about putting the front seal in the fridge so it would tap into the front cover a little easier. As it turns out, I was so close minded that I took the time to read all of your correcting posts, even though I thought they were very pathetic. In my opinion, you are probably fat, ugly, short and have never been laid. You probably have limited friends and use the internet to try to look like a super hero as you teach non-engineer types(like myself) lessons. Judging by your post count you probably have no life and rarely leave your seat in front of the computer. Of coarse this is just my opinion, but Im probably right on this one.

-Dan

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

He said "Poor thrust bearings" which are not the bearings that allow rotational force. They keep the crank horizontally aligned. As he alluded to, hammering on the pulley (or crank) will transfer the force to the thrust bearing.

YankeeVert.

I just bought a used ASP underdrive pulley. The surface on the inside of the pulley hole is very rough(looks like it has deep scratches in it.Will this give me problems when I try to install it? Does this surface need to be smooth?

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Sometimes powerbond pulleys are too tight and need to be honed,but only a titty hair.

As for the cold/hot thing. It is better to heat the pulley to 250-280 degree's for a slip fit type of install. Freezing it makes the hole smaller. I've tested it before with measurements and everything to the same pulley.