At 471rwhp now, how to hit 500rwhp?.......
#1
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Hmmm when we last dynoed Project Dragzilla, we pulled 471rwhp/505rwtq, with the following configuration...
422 ARE iron block
-02 LS6 heads big valve stage II
-244/244//112 ARE/Comp XE-R grind
~11.75:1 compression
-1.75 TTS longtubes
-3 inch dual exhaust, with 2.5 H pipe crossover, and 3" Borla XR1 Sportsman mufflers with dumps
-26 degrees of WOT timing
-93 octane with 2-3 gallons of 100 racegas
-Locked up FLP tranny with Yank 4800TPE
-Thru 9" Moser rearend
-On Speed Inc. dynojet
-On 28 inch slicks
Now on one hand, I am thinking of trying some dyno tricks and also some changes...
-X pipe instead of H pipe (option A); bullets
-3" Y pipe with dual cutouts (option B); catback
-Dyno on regular radials
-Meziere Eletric water pump
-1&7/8 Dynatech headers
-Retarding the cam 2 degrees (it's +4 aka 108icl)
I can do that with my current block, though I was talking to Wade @ ARE and I have to say their big bore resleeved motors have been impressive this year as far as durability is concerned... The Shop car, the silver Z28 aka 'Agent Argent' in the GMHTP buildup articles ran all race season with one of their 4.100 bore Aluminum bore motors with zero issues. My ARE 4.060 bore iron block has been great all year, no leaks or head gasket problems, but it's tempting to run a 4.100 bore motor.
From a project standpoint, what would you guys like to see, a swap to a resleeved 4.100 aluminum block and we can see how it does during the 2003 season, or stay with the 4.060 longer stroke iron block? I have to say I am a bit curious as to what the motor would dyno just with the different shortblock.
I am contemplating doing a series of dyno tests on the car during 2003 to test the various parts available from the aftermarket. I am also supposedly going to get a cast aluminum intake from a MW company for testing in Jan/Feb, and if it works, it would be the first production style intake that works better than the stock LS6 intake. The intake incorporates porting from prior castings made over the last 14 months.
What do you members think?
422 ARE iron block
-02 LS6 heads big valve stage II
-244/244//112 ARE/Comp XE-R grind
~11.75:1 compression
-1.75 TTS longtubes
-3 inch dual exhaust, with 2.5 H pipe crossover, and 3" Borla XR1 Sportsman mufflers with dumps
-26 degrees of WOT timing
-93 octane with 2-3 gallons of 100 racegas
-Locked up FLP tranny with Yank 4800TPE
-Thru 9" Moser rearend
-On Speed Inc. dynojet
-On 28 inch slicks
Now on one hand, I am thinking of trying some dyno tricks and also some changes...
-X pipe instead of H pipe (option A); bullets
-3" Y pipe with dual cutouts (option B); catback
-Dyno on regular radials
-Meziere Eletric water pump
-1&7/8 Dynatech headers
-Retarding the cam 2 degrees (it's +4 aka 108icl)
I can do that with my current block, though I was talking to Wade @ ARE and I have to say their big bore resleeved motors have been impressive this year as far as durability is concerned... The Shop car, the silver Z28 aka 'Agent Argent' in the GMHTP buildup articles ran all race season with one of their 4.100 bore Aluminum bore motors with zero issues. My ARE 4.060 bore iron block has been great all year, no leaks or head gasket problems, but it's tempting to run a 4.100 bore motor.
From a project standpoint, what would you guys like to see, a swap to a resleeved 4.100 aluminum block and we can see how it does during the 2003 season, or stay with the 4.060 longer stroke iron block? I have to say I am a bit curious as to what the motor would dyno just with the different shortblock.
I am contemplating doing a series of dyno tests on the car during 2003 to test the various parts available from the aftermarket. I am also supposedly going to get a cast aluminum intake from a MW company for testing in Jan/Feb, and if it works, it would be the first production style intake that works better than the stock LS6 intake. The intake incorporates porting from prior castings made over the last 14 months.
What do you members think?
#2
The Bull
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Have you even pointed it down the track yet or are you still waiting for Harlan to tune it? Ride it out and do some mild tweaks, see what happens!
#3
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Well it's winter now and I have almost four months before local tracks open.
I feel pretty good about the 471rwhp on Speed Inc.c's dyno, the next LS1 down from me did 469rwhp (422 iron block) but that guy dynos thru a stock rearend and on stock tires... So I know I make more than him.
I feel pretty good about the 471rwhp on Speed Inc.c's dyno, the next LS1 down from me did 469rwhp (422 iron block) but that guy dynos thru a stock rearend and on stock tires... So I know I make more than him.
#4
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Actually John,Hughes and Wilson make an intake that really works for the LS1,but there $$$$.
I think u should leave well enough alone but if it were my car I would try big headers w/ bullets and dumps..
Good luck and have a nice holiday
JS
I think u should leave well enough alone but if it were my car I would try big headers w/ bullets and dumps..
Good luck and have a nice holiday
JS
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swapping shortblocks would be an insane waste of money. When are you gonna test that sheetmetal intake?
#7
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Very simple answer here! Drop the $3K for MORE Performance's 1-7/8" to 2" stepped headers!!! After all, they promise 40 more HP over conventional headers and you could tell them that if they don't get you 40 more HP, to send you your money back <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> After all, everyone is whining about the price of these headers but if you think about it for a minute, how many people spend $3K for a set of heads only to pick up 40HP or less and never complain <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> SO NOW JUST DO IT!!!!!!!!!!
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#9
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The intake I referred to above is not sheet metal. I did talk about a sheet metal intake a few months ago but it's still undergoing R&D.
#10
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Highly recommend a set of 1 7/8" headers. We have seen HUGE increases going from 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" with motors with displacement over 408 ci. It's easy enough of a project with definate gains! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
#11
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Hmmm I'd like to dyno the difference on the headers... and it's super easy to swap headers with the BMR K member...
Keep the ideas and comments coming, what other dyno tests might be interesting?
Keep the ideas and comments coming, what other dyno tests might be interesting?
#12
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I think you should call up LPE and ask them for their special from the rear.By the way Johnny what happened to my thread?
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No wait nevermind.I know the answer to your question.Just give Ed a call and I am sure you 2 can work something out on the side(if you know what I mean)for one of their 900hp motors.Oh and to top it off I am sure he will let you bake for him when your done.I know he likes cookies. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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i think you should concentrate and fixing your electrical situation and wait to get a run in @ the track before going and changing things again....
#15
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Any reason you didn't dyno open headers? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> The 1 7/8 headers will get you closer, but somehow I doubt 30rwhp.
I personally like the solider roller idea. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
I personally like the solider roller idea. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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John screw 500 and spray it and go for an easy 600 HP or even 700. Other than that try all the dyno tricks like carbonfiber driveshaft etc.
#18
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MacGyver:
<strong>Have you thought about a solid roller setup John? That might net you near 500 from just swapping to that?
Will</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have, and will be doing that in the not too distant future. I am very curious to see just how much difference this will make.
PSJ - this is an option also to think about.
<strong>Have you thought about a solid roller setup John? That might net you near 500 from just swapping to that?
Will</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have, and will be doing that in the not too distant future. I am very curious to see just how much difference this will make.
PSJ - this is an option also to think about.
#19
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I would keep the headers you have, go with dual electric cutouts in a 3 inch mandrel Ypipe like Nineball has, and a quiet catback. Dyno on 26 inch radials and do a race gas tune for 100 octane like the other big guys <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
That alone will be close or right at 500RWHP right there and your car will be quieter and more pleasant to drive too. then you can play with intakes etc <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Cheers,
Chris
That alone will be close or right at 500RWHP right there and your car will be quieter and more pleasant to drive too. then you can play with intakes etc <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Cheers,
Chris