Want to run solid 11's... what do I need to get there?
 

OK so low 11's is the goal because 10.99 or faster and I have to have a roll cage of some sort which I'm not going to do. I need your experience to tell me what it takes to get there. A few rules.... the car needs to be reliable. I don't want to be under the hood every weekend. I'm the type that if I'm going to do it, it is going to be done right the first time. It also needs to have good street manors... decent idle quality and not too loud. Also I want to keep a lockup style converter so that might limit the size of the cam as well. Needs to be pump gas friendly.

I have been doing some research and think I know a few of the things I want so far, but nothing is set in stone yet. I'm trying to get a part list built up so I can start ordering.

-AFR 205s assembled head
-QTP or Kooks SS LT headers
-Nice Y pipe setup
-Fast intake
-cam and converter are still up in the air depending on what you guys think it will take to get in the 11's
-better roller rockers, lifters and pushrods (need ideas)
-tranny mods?
-rear end (3.73?)
-MC racing in KC will do the tuning. They tune modded LS vettes all day long!



Hopefully that gives you folks an idea the direction I'm wanting to go. Your help and experience is appreciated! :D

Adam

Pretty sure the cage limit is 11.49.

AFR 205s or the equivilant Trickflow
-QTP headers
-True duals
-Fast intake
-Can't recommend too much on the cam. MS3 or MS4 possibly. Someone will help you on that.
-Don't forget stronger valve springs.

That should get you 11s no problem.

Well I was looking at the 2008 rules and I believe the 11.49 limit is for convertibles. I would not buy a convertible for that reason.

Thanks for the help.

I'm really looking for good advice on a cam to work well with the 205's and the correct converter for the cam. Plus, what trans mods will need to be done. Will just having the tuner up the line pressure be enough? Ditch the 3.23 rear end?

Edit: On the valvesprings, I will get the assembled head.

I agree with the above mentioned... except for the true duals...

you can go with those if you like, but it's been proven that a good Y-Pipe setup is just as efficient on our cars... so either way works...

and make sure you get a GOOD TUNE!

just remember, you don't need a HUGE cam... so don't go overboard or you'll have no power till the top of your curve...

also you'll want to upgrade your intake manifold...

Yeah, I'm pretty sold on a nice Y-pipe. Seems like they draw a vacuum on each other nicely. And I agree, I want the least peaky cam I can have that will still get the job done. I'm not looking for that 4000-7000rpm range cam. Thanks

How bout a 100-150 shot of N2O

Haha... I was going to keep that option in the back pocket incase I didn't make my goal! :D

yeah, putting the dope on would help, but I'm not planning on it. people are trying to get me there, I don't know, it might happen. but I don't want to right now, I want to be all motor

tr 224 or the torquer v2 (good tune and supporting mods)will get you there with ARH headers and y-pipe with a nice cat-back and a fast 90/90 or better you will be good to go. but thats if you can get it to the ground, might some lca's torque arm, sticky tires(then might want a new rear end lol)

once you start modding you cant stop

i don't know what stall you have but that definatly needs to be on the list.

4k stall and good h/c setup should get you there, given you have the suspension and tires to hook.

or you could get a procharger and be done with it!

[QUOTE=frito1;9417346]Well I was looking at the 2008 rules and I believe the 11.49 limit is for convertibles. I would not buy a convertible for that reason.

I think that's the limit for hard top/ T top cars. It used to be 11.99 until a couple years ago.

bolt ons
3600+ converter
12 bolt
built trans
h/c (i would go with ms4 and some afrs)
suspension
tires

you said you wanted it to be reliable so trans and rear end are a must.

the problem is that these h/c setups arent as street friendly as a nice FI setup would be. albeit more expensive, but for driveability it's worth it.

nope, 11.49 and you need a 6 point roll BAR. 10.99 and you need an 8 point CAGE. Starting at 11.49 you need to have a drive shaft loop as well. Fire jacket at 10.99, and there are some other basic things but you get the idea. Depending on how strict your track is, you can probably get away without having the roll bar in the car until you decide to enter a race, and not just run at TnT.

edit: you might need the jacket at 11.49...I can't remember for sure, might want to check.

Dan you are running 11's with an A4 and 3.23s. What all do you have in your setup?

11.49 for a cage/ roll bar.

You can get there easily with the parts you mentioned and a nice "power under the curve" cam, ~3500 stall and possibly gears and probably injectors. This will be a very driveable and fun street combo with a good tune. I've seen some with a 224, headers, intake (factory heads), medium sized stall, and 3.42 - 3.73 gears running high 11's.

With regards to the Y pipe:

The Mufflex is a nice piece. I still have good ground clearance. I also scored a catted QTP Y from from Speedinc (Ebay $126.00) and it is just as nice. Both use the Flowmaster merge. Its 4 inch out so you will need a 4 to 3 reducer unless you are going bigger. The QTP came with one...the Mufflex does not.

I can send pics of the Mufflex if you want. I have yet to snap pics of the QTP.


EDIT: I also have the Comp Pro Magnum Roller Rockers in an oil bath awaiting install. They are super nice. I chose the 1.75 variety. Just got them yesterday. I have heard Yella Terra's are nice, too.

R/

Frat

cage and jacket @ 11.49 for sure