Cam Swap Q's
07-25-2008, 09:32 AM
#1
Cam Swap Q's Hi All,
I'm getting ready to swap cams in my '03 Corvette engine. Cam only (plus springs and possibly pushrods), no heads. Going from stock to a "Texas Speed Torquer 2" (232/234 .595/.598 on 113° LC). Plan on using a set of 918 springs, will PR's need to be changed?
The engine will be out of the car for the swap. What's the deal on hanging up the lifters? Are there any good online articles on swapping just the cam w/o pulling the heads?
This is to be used with a Victor, JR manifold, Holley 750DP carb, and MSD-6010 box. Also have 1 3/4" longtube headers. What can I expect out of an otherwise stock engine?
Thanks!
Russ
I'm getting ready to swap cams in my '03 Corvette engine. Cam only (plus springs and possibly pushrods), no heads. Going from stock to a "Texas Speed Torquer 2" (232/234 .595/.598 on 113° LC). Plan on using a set of 918 springs, will PR's need to be changed?
The engine will be out of the car for the swap. What's the deal on hanging up the lifters? Are there any good online articles on swapping just the cam w/o pulling the heads?
This is to be used with a Victor, JR manifold, Holley 750DP carb, and MSD-6010 box. Also have 1 3/4" longtube headers. What can I expect out of an otherwise stock engine?
Thanks!
Russ
07-25-2008, 09:36 AM
#2
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
u can use an air compressor in the spark plug holes. or just rotate the pistons so the valves can only fall to the top of the pistion.
u can use an air compressor in the spark plug holes. or just rotate the pistons so the valves can only fall to the top of the pistion.
07-25-2008, 09:42 AM
#3
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
u can use an air compressor in the spark plug holes. or just rotate the pistons so the valves can only fall to the top of the pistion.
u can use an air compressor in the spark plug holes. or just rotate the pistons so the valves can only fall to the top of the pistion.
Russ
07-25-2008, 02:10 PM
#4
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i run a similar setup to yours...
cam only ls1 w/ victor jr., but EFI with a elbow and 90mm tb.
13/4 longtubes and true duals...thats it.
the cam is something we had laying around...its a Strictly Performance grind...low 230s duration low 600 lift...
it made 436@6200 and 389 TQ... this is through a T56 trans and a 12 bolt rear end...
at the time it also had a 85mm MAF and a 78 mm air lid with tr6 plugs..
the carb setup without a restriction and the right plugs (depending on application),will make more power than that...what ends up at the wheels will have to do with the tranny and converter selection.
for the lifters theres two easy ways...one is to run a dowel down the lifter oil feed passage on each side...these passages are visible once the cam plate has been removed...i dont remember which size dowel is the correct OD...it is either 3/8ths or 5/16ths...if i were to guess id say 5/16ths...lol i can give you a for sure answer when i get back to the shop from vegas on monday...lol
the other option is to buy 16 retractable pen magnets to hold the lifters up in place ...you would use a clothespin to hold the magnet up...im sure theres a write up on this website....the advance search feature works very well too...
i ran comp 918 springs with stock retainers and locks on mine....also with stock pushrods...it was taken all the way up to 6500 a couple times on the dyno...never bent a pushrod...a lot of street use as well...
i will be the first to admit that was pretty risky, but im broke and i got em for free...lol.. and they worked with stock retainers...
i would advise you to go with dual springs, retainers, and hardened pushrods...they dont cost much but they add stability, and most importantly reliability to your valvetrain...comp 918 is a good beehive spring, but it is not up to par for a cam like that...
cam only ls1 w/ victor jr., but EFI with a elbow and 90mm tb.
13/4 longtubes and true duals...thats it.
the cam is something we had laying around...its a Strictly Performance grind...low 230s duration low 600 lift...
it made 436@6200 and 389 TQ... this is through a T56 trans and a 12 bolt rear end...
at the time it also had a 85mm MAF and a 78 mm air lid with tr6 plugs..
the carb setup without a restriction and the right plugs (depending on application),will make more power than that...what ends up at the wheels will have to do with the tranny and converter selection.
for the lifters theres two easy ways...one is to run a dowel down the lifter oil feed passage on each side...these passages are visible once the cam plate has been removed...i dont remember which size dowel is the correct OD...it is either 3/8ths or 5/16ths...if i were to guess id say 5/16ths...lol i can give you a for sure answer when i get back to the shop from vegas on monday...lol
the other option is to buy 16 retractable pen magnets to hold the lifters up in place ...you would use a clothespin to hold the magnet up...im sure theres a write up on this website....the advance search feature works very well too...
i ran comp 918 springs with stock retainers and locks on mine....also with stock pushrods...it was taken all the way up to 6500 a couple times on the dyno...never bent a pushrod...a lot of street use as well...
i will be the first to admit that was pretty risky, but im broke and i got em for free...lol.. and they worked with stock retainers...
i would advise you to go with dual springs, retainers, and hardened pushrods...they dont cost much but they add stability, and most importantly reliability to your valvetrain...comp 918 is a good beehive spring, but it is not up to par for a cam like that...