Putting in a Patrick G custom grind soon. Can't wait!

So far I've got the cam, Patriot Gold springs, 7.450" pushrods, and a Powerbond 25% UD pulley. Sticking with the stock lifters and oil pump for now.

I plan to pick up a cam swap gasket kit from Texas Speed, an LS2 timing chain, some Dex-Cool, 13? quarts of oil (do I need to run everything for 20 minutes, then change oil after the cam swap just like any ordinary SBC?), a new belt (anyone know exactly which part # I'll need with the pulley?), some red Loc-tite...and I think that's it.

If I'm forgetting anything please let me know.

Thanks
Matt

 

No need to break in a roller cam.

 

I know it doesn't need to be "burned in", but I thought it was good to run it for 20 minutes or so just to get the springs, cam lobes, etc a wear pattern and "rinse" out any crap from assembly?

 

Thats what i would do, then change it at like 100-200 miles just to be sure

 

i changed my oil after my cam swap about 500 miles after, then put some good old mobil 1 in it and it ran perfect! you can order a underdriv pulley belt from texas speed

 

Gotcha, BTW Apollo I'm in Stuart. Are there any meets going on around here? I've been out of the loop and don't really hang around the PSL crowd.

 

I just completed my swap this weekend, along with new springs, retainers, bases, seals and keepers. My cam was big jump up so I checked valve geometry, piston to valve clearance and degreed the cam. Here are some things I thought of, depending on how deep or thorough you are going to get with the swap.

-While youre at it, why not in stall an ARP crank bolt instead of reusing the stock one?
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-2503/10002/-1

-Breaker bar with length of pipe for an extension?

-24mm socket for the crank bolt? If you go with the ARP bolt, you will need a 27mm 12 point socket to install it. (torque to 190ft lbs with moly lube)

-Torque Wrench that will read 240ft lbs? (190 ft lbs if you use an ARP bolt)

-Torque wrench that will go down to 18ft lbs?

-You will/should have a longer bolt for the crank pulley. Using the stock bolt, you only get a thread or two in the crank to pull the pulley back on. You run the risk of messing up the threads. Go and buy an M16 2.0 pitch x 120mm bolt and a large flatwasher or two.

-Do you have a tool to remove the old valve springs?

-What method are you going to use to keep the valved from falling down when you remove the valve springs?

-What is your method for holding the lifters up when sliding out the new cam? I used the pen magnet method and it worked great.

-Are you going to check PTV with the new cam? If so, you will need a pushrod length checker and weak checker springs.

-Do you have a degree wheel and dial indicator?

-How do you know you will need 7.450" pushrods? Do you know the base circle of the old and new cam? If not, you will want to measure and set the lifter preload properly.

-Grey RTV silicone?

-Water pump gaskets incase the old ones rip when removing them? (these are cheap so it is always good to replace them anyway.)

-New front crank seal?

-One piece of advice; Go slow. Measure everything twice. Check and recheck all torque settings. When done, turn it over by hand, then by starter with no spark plugs or fuel (pull fuel pump fuse) to listen for strange noises. If all is good, install plugs, replace fuse and touch it off.

It just sucks when you get going on a sweet project like this and forget something that brings it to a screeching halt. Good luck. Post up any questions you have.