6.5 diesel pedal on a gen iv swap?
 

Can anyone confirm if this will work? I've heard of folks using this pedal, but only in TAC equipped gen three's.

My e38 LMG 5.3 is going into a squarebody chevy, and the diesel pedal is a bolt-in deal. I'm aware of the need to repin the connector. I don't mind that, but the junkyard owner will charge me good, so I want to be sure it will work before I pull and buy it.

I'm trying this thread in the gen iv forum. Previously I've been posting questions in the Conversions/hybrids forum, but with dismal results. Am I correct in moving to this forum with questions?

The reason you're getting dismal results is because what you're asking is not very common. Perhaps if you included more information, people can help. By 6.5 diesel, do you mean the Duramax equipped trucks? If so, go to Rock Auto.com and look up the make and model of the truck and look up pictures of the pedal.

Chances are that if the pedal has the same 6 pin connector that other gen IV cars use, then it will work.

Andrew

The 6.5 is a turbo-diesel v8 that GM used in their pickups in the 90's. It used a computer controlled rotary injection pump, and was drive-by-wire. It predates the Duramax. The pedal is supposed to be a direct bolt in for a 73-91 squarebody truck.

Based on this thread, it's possible with the older LS engines. All these 6.5 TD pedal swaps are going into TAC-equipped harnesses, and my engine is new enough to not have a TAC.

What was the function of the TAC?

Would anyone know the ohm values of the 2010 pedal, or of the 6.5 TD pedal?

I don't know this for a fact, but if I was to make a bet, those pedals are not going to be compatible with Gen IV ECUs.

Andrew

Why not just use any number of Gen IV pedals? They are not hard to adapt. I'd look at the C6 Corvette, Monte Carlo SS, and CTSV pedals.

Andrew

I'll probably do just that. I already have the matching 2010 truck pedal that goes with my engine and harness. I compared it last night, and it looks like two pieces of angle iron welded together should make a bracket.

I did run across someone saying that the 6.5 pedal was prone to failure. Not something I need to be installing, I reckon.

Interestingly, I opened up my 2010 pedal to see what was inside. There's no circuitry that I can tell. All I see is several sliding variable resistors. As long as the ohm ranges are correct, pedals should inter-swap; I'd think. The basic architecture appears to be the same(ground, 5v reference, signal; all duplicated two or three times), so I think it would stand to reason that GM kept the same ohm ranges in their pedals from the 90's until recent. That's only speculation, though.