What ignition coil has the hottest spark?
 

Aftermarket, Marine coils, factory, who has the hottest spark? Read a thread talking marine coils and how hot they were. Can't find or remember the thread, just a WK ago. Something was said about a bigger circular \ round marine coil that produced a hot spark.

I think the Marine coils are the ign-1a coils. Supposedly they're very good coils to use and Pantera EFI sells them here

Found something like what I read....no time yet to watch it... Any thoughts...

The Mercury Marine coils are indeed the IGN1A coils.

They are indeed the baddest-ass mofo coil on the planet right now, with over three times the energy of OEM GM coils... Here is a LEGIT and scientific test:


Lucky for me, my best pal is an outboard engine mechanic and has a bunch of these coils laying around... :-)

But the thing is though,
Are these coils as reliable as the OEM ones?
I have my stock coils for 14 years and have never skipped a beat.

They are OEM coils. My outboard mechanic pal say's he's never needed to replace one. Admittedly, there is less heat inside the cowl of an outboard then there is under the hood of a typical car...

But still, the mercury/IGN1A coil is a badass mofo

Can't wait to get my hands on a set of them!

Outboard runtime is fractional of an automobile engine. The stock square Mitsubishi Electric coils are of amazing build quality reliability, and have been used up to 1000hp of boosted induction. If you were to see the plant in Maysville, Kentucky where they are made, and the GM spec they were built to meet, it would become clear why they can go 1 million miles, and still work 100% when pulled from the dirt at a scrapyard.

True, but the typical LOAD on an automobile engine is fractional as compared to a marine outboard.

Your typical optimax with 1000 hours on it will have been at WOT for 700+ hours.

The Mercury ecu dwells/drives the coils harder for higher load/cylinder pressures...

IGN-1A. Fantastic coil.

You can run them daily at 8ms dwell. If one ever goes out on me i'll lt yall know

Dont waste your money. A coil will only produce as much voltage as needed to jump whatever gap and overcome the cylinder pressure present.
So if you have a 10kv coil and it only needs 2kv to jump a gap you have a 2kv coil.
The voltage will never reach the rated output.
Now if you have worn components like wires and plugs the voltage will climb. But who on this site would have worn components?

Funny? Can these coils be rebuilt? I have a set from my spare 6.0 as it came complete engine & trans with complete harness.

Don't tell me i can make my own coils now? I no of a place that makes re man alternators with + amps 210. Battery dealer also.

?

Anyone know about

ICE ignition Ls coils

1. Twice the energy of factory coils with supplied dwell table
2. Current limiting set at 20 Amps, as opposed to factory 8.25 Amps
3. Advanced design to withstand vibration and deliver maximum, consistent output
4. Suitable for the most demanding road, off-road, race or marine applications.
5. Superior common-mode noise rejection – no false triggering
6. Easy to change over from the factory coil to the ICE LS1 model

just asked > ... ICE for some product information & specifications on their 4300 ls coils...i like comparisons. My be a, re-named ign-a1 ... But i do No, ICE is a bad Mutha trucker... Known Winner with ign coils.

True, but think about boost situations where you can blow out your spark. Or you can run a bigger gap for a bigger/fatter spark.

Anyone have an example where stock coils didn't work for them and why? Not a weak/failed component, good OEM factory came with the car coils.

I put Mercury Marine coils on my 2JZ because the OEM Toyota coils required me to gap the plugs down to about .020" to avoid spark blowout - and that was only 17psi or so. I can use a .050" gap with the new coils, and have run up to 25psi with no issues.

I don't have before/after dyno numbers for comparison - but this guy does: He had LQ9 coils on his 2J, and was experiencing ignition breakup and problems. Dicked around with it a bunch, and finally swapped on the IGN1A coils. Problem solved and +20whp on a Mustang dyno at same boost and timing!

Skip to 38:30 for the conclusion blurb...

Anything on an LS? Plenty have ran 20+ PSI on stock coils so I would venture to say there was at least one weak coil.

I've not added boost to the LS, but I've had perfectly good success with OEM coils on them.

On my 2J, I did try a fresh set of coils before converting to the Mercury marine coils, so I do not agree with your assessment that I had a weak oem coil.

I've been following the dude in the video I posted for awhile. He's not a dumb ricer (and nor am I). He had lingering ignition issues with his LQ9 coils. He re-wired his power harness with 16 gage wire, added shielded trigger wires (not supposed to need that), added redundant grounds, etc etc - the problems remained. Totally solved with IGN1A. From what I saw, and knowing what I know, I was thoroughly convinced the IGN1A coils were a legit improvement to both my car and his.

That said, "hot coils" are NOT the handful-of-miracles that most people seem to think they are; but there are times when they are necessary. In my opinion, when you are convinced you NEED "hot coils", IGN1A are the ones to get. The market is full of junk, but IGN1A are the real deal.

I was not assuming you were a "dumb ricer". I am simply saying that perhaps there was an inherent issue with how the LQ9 coils interacted with your 2JZ setup and control, that was solved by the IGN1A coils. As i'm sure you're well aware, there is MUCH more to an ignition coil than simply how "hot" they are. I can appreciate the need for them when running higher boost/power levels, but nothing I've seen in this thread dictates the IGN1A.