how big can you bore a 6 liter block
#61
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#63
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In some instances like track only cars running alcohol which runs alot cooler you can get away with no coolant system but that's not too common.
What alot of people do is go with a 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 fill. It lowers the cooling capabilitys but still keeps coolant flowing up top around the combustion area.
Filling a block also helps with cylinder rigidity at high rpms and has been proven to show power gains. At high rpms your cylinder is doing some crazy stuff and you may have issues with rings sealing properly at those high rpms. Filling a block reduces the problem as well.
What alot of people do is go with a 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 fill. It lowers the cooling capabilitys but still keeps coolant flowing up top around the combustion area.
Filling a block also helps with cylinder rigidity at high rpms and has been proven to show power gains. At high rpms your cylinder is doing some crazy stuff and you may have issues with rings sealing properly at those high rpms. Filling a block reduces the problem as well.
#64
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In some instances like track only cars running alcohol which runs alot cooler you can get away with no coolant system but that's not too common.
What alot of people do is go with a 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 fill. It lowers the cooling capabilitys but still keeps coolant flowing up top around the combustion area.
Filling a block also helps with cylinder rigidity at high rpms and has been proven to show power gains. At high rpms your cylinder is doing some crazy stuff and you may have issues with rings sealing properly at those high rpms. Filling a block reduces the problem as well.
What alot of people do is go with a 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 fill. It lowers the cooling capabilitys but still keeps coolant flowing up top around the combustion area.
Filling a block also helps with cylinder rigidity at high rpms and has been proven to show power gains. At high rpms your cylinder is doing some crazy stuff and you may have issues with rings sealing properly at those high rpms. Filling a block reduces the problem as well.
#65
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This thread is old, but i hope to find some information about the finding of sonic testing of the remaining wall thickness after boring to 4.125" of LQ9 or LQ4
#69
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Here you go. It's not like its 50 bucks but I think 330 bucks is still doable.
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/prod...ucts_id=195%20
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/prod...ucts_id=195%20
#70
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I agree. Even if you do it yourself and get your measurements, you will still be right back on here asking what a minimum wall thickness is, and you will still get a dozen different answers. At least at a machine shop, you can explain your goals and they can give you a better answer based on experience.
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We done a sucessfully a 376ci (6.17 liters) engine using the LQ4 cylinder block, where we overbored the block to 4.066" and used the stock crankshaft. using milled 317 heads as N/A. The car working till now for three day with out any problems till now.
We checked with the machining shop, and they adviced there is sufficient thickness.
We checked with the machining shop, and they adviced there is sufficient thickness.
#73
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LQ4 block, crank, rods, heads are the same. Pistons changed, not sure about the cam
What year block? Is it an LY6? I understood the newer 6.0 iron blocks were heavier than the old ones. 4.06" in the early days required the block to be sonic checked. 4.125" on a truck block would make for an inexpensive 427.
#76
So you think 4.070 and let's say 20 psi will be alright? The block will be well prepped, I'm just worried about cylinder wall thickness.
There will be no hard block though.
There will be no hard block though.
Last edited by 01 blue ss; 06-06-2012 at 11:15 AM.