Oil burning 427
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Oil burning 427
My 427 (< 2500 miles) has been using a quart of oil in 500 miles or less. I have been told that there is some visible smoke on har acceleration. I pulled the drivers side header off to install an oil cooler and found a problem. The exhaust port of #5 is quite oily. The other three are dry.
What is the best way to troubleshoot this this problem?
This thing had better not need a rebuild with so few miles on it...
What is the best way to troubleshoot this this problem?
This thing had better not need a rebuild with so few miles on it...
#5
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My 427 (< 2500 miles) has been using a quart of oil in 500 miles or less. I have been told that there is some visible smoke on har acceleration. I pulled the drivers side header off to install an oil cooler and found a problem. The exhaust port of #5 is quite oily. The other three are dry.
What is the best way to troubleshoot this this problem?
This thing had better not need a rebuild with so few miles on it...
What is the best way to troubleshoot this this problem?
This thing had better not need a rebuild with so few miles on it...
#7
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PCV uses the restrictor that came from SDPC with the engine. I run that from the valley pan through a catch can to vacuum source. I also run a line from the passengers side valve cover through another catch can with a breather on it.
The pistons are forged flat tops (11.05:1 compression) and I run a 4" stroke with the 4.125" bore.
The pistons are forged flat tops (11.05:1 compression) and I run a 4" stroke with the 4.125" bore.
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Look here...I would get my *** under that valve cover, pull the #5 plug, remove both rockers, air up the cyl., remove springs/replace seals (1 at a time).......reverse order for assembly. Total time w/ parts in hand: Less than a six-pack (30-45min). Time worrying about it that last few days: well, a few days huh?
Do the leakdown but my $ is on the seals, big $ on the intake seal
Do the leakdown but my $ is on the seals, big $ on the intake seal
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I have a SDPC motor and mine is doiong the same thing. I am running a 416 LS3 with L92 heads. Its eating oil like a mother and im blowing the dipstick out due to crankcase pressure.
guys, If I pull a header and the ports are oily, does that mean its a valve seal for sure?
I wasnt sure if SDPC lapped the valve seats. ? But i called and said they did.
guys, If I pull a header and the ports are oily, does that mean its a valve seal for sure?
I wasnt sure if SDPC lapped the valve seats. ? But i called and said they did.
Last edited by VGLNTE1; 01-17-2009 at 08:28 PM.
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I have a SDPC motor and mine is doiong the same thing. I am running a 416 LS3 with L92 heads. Its eating oil like a mother and im blowing the dipstick out due to crankcase pressure.
guys, If I pull a header and the ports are oily, does that mean its a valve seal for sure?
I wasnt sure if SDPC lapped the valve seats. ? But i called and said they did.
guys, If I pull a header and the ports are oily, does that mean its a valve seal for sure?
I wasnt sure if SDPC lapped the valve seats. ? But i called and said they did.
What kind of crank case venilation are you using ? Any forced induction or are you NA ?
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Been gone for a few days. I am pretty convinced that I have at least one bad valve seal. This shouldn't happen so soon but oh well. I pulled a couple of plugs and they look ok. Neither one is oily.
I think that I will replace all of them since if I have one bad one I may well have others that are hosed. Are stock valve seals the way to go? Do I just order L76/L92 seals or they all the same?
Has anyone seen a valve seal replacement DYI on the net somewhere?
Thanks.
I think that I will replace all of them since if I have one bad one I may well have others that are hosed. Are stock valve seals the way to go? Do I just order L76/L92 seals or they all the same?
Has anyone seen a valve seal replacement DYI on the net somewhere?
Thanks.
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I am not seeing signs of crankcase pressure with mine. My dip stick is staying put.
I have a SDPC motor and mine is doiong the same thing. I am running a 416 LS3 with L92 heads. Its eating oil like a mother and im blowing the dipstick out due to crankcase pressure.
guys, If I pull a header and the ports are oily, does that mean its a valve seal for sure?
I wasnt sure if SDPC lapped the valve seats. ? But i called and said they did.
guys, If I pull a header and the ports are oily, does that mean its a valve seal for sure?
I wasnt sure if SDPC lapped the valve seats. ? But i called and said they did.
#17
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Well, typically smoke on ACCeleration means rings, and smoke on DECeleration, seals. Does not mean it is not seals however, but that is typically the rule of thumb:
First start up, deceleration, long idle, or just at idle period is usually seals.
Under acceleration rings.
Again, usually, not always the case.
Good luck, nice ride!
First start up, deceleration, long idle, or just at idle period is usually seals.
Under acceleration rings.
Again, usually, not always the case.
Good luck, nice ride!
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I finally took the car into my favorite shop and they found the problem.
They did a leak down and all cylinders were at 1% to 4%. No problem there.
I found oil in #5 exhaust port so they pulled one apart and there was the problem. The valve springs were installed at the wrong height (thanks a lot Livernois). When the valves opened they crushed the valve seals. Livernois said that the valve springs were good to .620 or something like that. I am only running .591/.610.
They did a leak down and all cylinders were at 1% to 4%. No problem there.
I found oil in #5 exhaust port so they pulled one apart and there was the problem. The valve springs were installed at the wrong height (thanks a lot Livernois). When the valves opened they crushed the valve seals. Livernois said that the valve springs were good to .620 or something like that. I am only running .591/.610.
Last edited by VortechC5; 02-25-2009 at 06:09 PM.
#19
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Its good that its not a ring issue. The shop will still have to keep the retainers from smacking the new seals. I'd much rather have to deal with this than a non-sealing ring issue!
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The shop recommended going with a Comp set of springs/retainers/locks that can be done in car without having to machine the spring pockets. They are supposedly good for .640 lift. They are going to make sure that the installed height is correct.