Project: My 6.0 LS2 F-body
05-01-2009, 09:54 PM
#62
That, or I would like to be there. I have drill this weekend, but I'm around next weekend if you haven't dropped the trans yet. Just let me know.
05-12-2009, 12:45 PM
#64
well there could be some good news, Campbell and my buddy John came up to the shop and gave me a hand with the car a bit, as I was pulling the first bolt off the starter I noticed that it had quite a bit of oil on it, not just the head of the bolt but further up it as well. Upon further investigation we found that the passenger side valvecover gasket was leaking down and could very well be the cause of the oil leak so were going to get a new gasket right now and then we'll see if that was the problem. Keep your fingers crossed
05-12-2009, 04:02 PM
#65
I put the new gasket on and the car back together and it runs but we couldn't get it to go long enough to find out for sure, but there was quite a bit of oil on the back of the pass side head so I'm hopeful. Now either my battery is going out, starter or I have some fouled plugs. The car cranks over fine but the battery dies out after a few attempts to start. The car doesn't sound like it wants to fire on all cylinders at first so I think I'm gonna swap the plugs and find out how they look and take my battery to Murray's and have them test it as well. Also when we hook it up to a charger it shows good voltage and the car will crank for as long as I hold it so I wanna say its not the starter.
05-12-2009, 05:12 PM
#67
probably just the plugs are fouled from running super rich with your open headers. Swap the plugs and you should be ok. As far as the battery, if its not fully charged it will not hold its charge even if it reads full voltage. It will still not hold it for long unless you trickle charge it or leave the car running for 15-20 mins.
05-12-2009, 06:26 PM
#68
I figured the plugs were probably fouled, the car is sitting on the charger again as we speak so once the plugs are swapped we'll see how it goes. The very first couple of times I started the car it never had any problems whatsoever so the plugs are probably it.
05-13-2009, 03:11 PM
#70
Well I went and found out my battery had half the CCA that it was rated for and needed replacement so I bought a new battery and some new plugs, gapped the plugs and installed them. The car did not fire 
It turns over prefectly but seems like its not getting spark. The only things I disconnected were the coil packs, plugs and plug wires. All of that has been double checked and I even went as far as to pull a plug and it was still fresh looking. Stuck a q-tip in the head and found no puddle of gas, really none at all. I really feel like it could be a bad ground considering it sometimes it fires up and sometimes it just cranks. The first time we tried it today it started but then died right away and then we only got it to fire one other time but had the same results, even giving the car some gas did nothing. I really need some ideas guys what do you have?
It turns over prefectly but seems like its not getting spark. The only things I disconnected were the coil packs, plugs and plug wires. All of that has been double checked and I even went as far as to pull a plug and it was still fresh looking. Stuck a q-tip in the head and found no puddle of gas, really none at all. I really feel like it could be a bad ground considering it sometimes it fires up and sometimes it just cranks. The first time we tried it today it started but then died right away and then we only got it to fire one other time but had the same results, even giving the car some gas did nothing. I really need some ideas guys what do you have? 
05-13-2009, 04:49 PM
#72
its possible but the car has run just fine before and the tach works just fine.
The first time we tried to start the car a month ago the fuel pump wouldn't come on and I discovered that the ground wire on the back of the head had come out of the loop that the bolt holds down. We just connected a piece of wire to extend in to ground over by the battery and the pump had power again and the car fired up with no problems aside from the leaks. When we had the trans out we decided to connect it back to the head again the right way and made a small extension so there wasn't any tension on the wire and that is the only other electrical piece we touched, but if the fuel pump comes on like it was before that ground should be fine and I have disconnected and reconnected it again already with no luck.
The first time we tried to start the car a month ago the fuel pump wouldn't come on and I discovered that the ground wire on the back of the head had come out of the loop that the bolt holds down. We just connected a piece of wire to extend in to ground over by the battery and the pump had power again and the car fired up with no problems aside from the leaks. When we had the trans out we decided to connect it back to the head again the right way and made a small extension so there wasn't any tension on the wire and that is the only other electrical piece we touched, but if the fuel pump comes on like it was before that ground should be fine and I have disconnected and reconnected it again already with no luck.
05-14-2009, 11:12 AM
#73
Ok well my tuner suggested last night that I try and start the car with the throttle wide open because it shuts the injectors off and lets the motor unflood itself. I tried it just now and the car fired right up and ran great. My question is what exactly does that mean? I definatly don't wanna run the car if its too rich because I don't wanna wash the piston rings and ruin the motor. Any ideas?
05-14-2009, 12:56 PM
#74
Your tuner needs to be there to upload your initial tune. I wouldn't run the motor anymore until:
A: you put back in your stock injectors (unless your injectors have already been scaled in the tune)
B: Hook up your exhaust
C: Get your initial tune uploaded
A: you put back in your stock injectors (unless your injectors have already been scaled in the tune)
B: Hook up your exhaust
C: Get your initial tune uploaded
05-14-2009, 01:06 PM
#75
The car has already been tuned for these injectors, the only change is they were cleaned out and flow tested to make sure they were all working properly. I also cannot hook up my exhaust because for some odd reason my headers are like 1" futher apart than before and my y-pipe will not fit over them now. My first job is to take the car to Stenod and have them finish up my exhaust as they are welding in a flowmaster merge and a cutout and rewelding the stock catback for me. My tuner said my previous H/C tune should be just fine until the exhaust is finished and the car has an alignment but we'll see what he says now seeing as its running a bit rich.
05-14-2009, 02:34 PM
#76
Well, your tune is not going to work at all with the exhaust unhooked. The fresh air is going to fool your O2's. You need to have a Open Loop tune in your vehicle right now which bypasses the O2 sensors. Otherwise you will continue to foul plugs and your car will not run unless at WOT. On top of that, you're washing out your cylinders. I would not be surprised if you already hurt the motor since the rings seat in the first few mins of running. I bet if you were to reset your LTFT's and STFT's your car would run normal for a little bit before going pig rich again.
05-14-2009, 02:39 PM
#77
Yeah I'm gonna have him come over and flash the pcm with a tune for now before I run it anymore. Like I mentioned though the only things that have changed are the shortblock is a few cubes bigger and the cam is different, its the same heads and valvetrain otherwise so it shouldn't be that far off but like you mentioned with no exhaust I don't want to take any chances.