SPONSORS!!! I NEED Advice on my 427 NA build - Looking for 9's (Please Help)
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SPONSORS!!! I NEED Advice on my 427 NA build - Looking for 9's (Please Help)
As the title says; I have been planning on doing a 427 CID LS3 Stroker setup for my 98 Z next summer and have some questions. Really I need some Help Putting together a SOLID combo to get me into the 9's with a 3300# F-Body. I am not against running an LS7 Based FORGED 427 either, Just don't know how hard it will be to run it in an F-Body. I don't want to run the dry sump oil system.
Now before I ask any questions, I want to add that I do not really care about driveability for the most part. I do however want it to be driveable for the street and run on PUMP GAS! Thats my ONLY concerns.
OK- So you know how to help me spec out an Engine, Here is a list of mods I HAVE or WILL HAVE when the 427 goes into the car. So considering that, Help me spec out a NASTY Engine.
* The car will have a FULL Tubular Suspension (Strange Front Struts, Rear 12 way Qa1's out Back, UMI K Member, Upper/Lower A Arms, BMR STB, BMR SFC's, And Dbl. Adj. LCA's, PHB, Etc.) and will have a Midwest Chassis Fab 9 rearend ( Options will be Back-brace, Detroit Locker with 3.70's and 35 spline Axles, Drag Bar, Chassis Mounted Tq. Arm, Aluminum Center) Along with the suspension/Rearend will be a BUILT 4L60E with a Yank SS4000 Stall or depending if I blow thru it this season, I'll be going with a TH400 and 4K + Stall. Exhaust is 1 7/8" TSP Longtube Headers and 3" TSP Rumbler "X" True Duals. (I will have it tuned by Either Chad at GLM, Mike Norris Motorsports, Speed inc., OR Ron at Vengeance) Basically whoever can fit it in at the time. All are GREAT Companies IMO.
Goals are:
-An engine that will produce As Close to 600 rwhp as possible. (Being an Auto I understand how hard this will be.)
-Mainly concerned with power under the curve and not really Peak Power. This is a STREET CAR! So I don't wanna REV to the moon to get Power out of the car.
-I am Looking for 9's with an NA 427 Build.
-NO solid Roller Cams (Hydraulic Roller Only)
Now here is what I'm thinking...
An LS3 427 with a Callies Forged Crank, Callies Rods, And Wiseco Flat Top Pistons yielding around 11.5:1 Compression for the Short Block Assm.
Heads: I am thinking of maybe using either CNC Ported LS3/L92 heads or going with a set of TFS 235cc Heads from TEA. (Any Suggestions)
Intake: Depending on the Heads, I was thinking of a Vengeance Racing Ported- FAST 92 or maybe the FAST LSXR 102mm Intake (Any Suggestions)
Cam: If I go with the LS3/L92 Heads I was looking at the LG G6X3 Cam
And if I run the TFS 235's I have "NO CLUE" which cam I'd be best running. (Any Suggestions)
My Current setup:
LS2 403 Stroker with "STOCK" LS6 Heads. It has a 248/254 .615/.623 110 LSA Cam in it. And has a FAST 92/92 setup on it right now. Level 4 4L60E with a Yank SS4000 Stall, 1 3/4" PS LT's and 3" TSP Duals, NASTY Perf. Fuel Rails & 42# Inj., Stock 10 Bolt with 3.42's and Girdle. I have Most of the suspension mods now, but the rest are going in this winter. Font Suspension is STOCK as of Now But it's gonna be a Full UMI Tubular Kit. With Strange Front Struts & etc.
The car drives awesome as it is and has gone a best of 10.993 @125.6 mph NA. Only thing I noticed is it needs a little MORE gear. So thats why I'm going to the 3.70's in the 9 inch.
^^^ Right Above I added what I have in the car now so you have a reference as to what is "Driveable" to me. The car drives Like a STOCK Camaro other than the Cam and Stall. So I can go wilder on the Cam with no problems. BASED on what I have listed here, I am asking for someone to help me build a NASTY 427.
THANK YOU in advance for all of your help.
James
Now before I ask any questions, I want to add that I do not really care about driveability for the most part. I do however want it to be driveable for the street and run on PUMP GAS! Thats my ONLY concerns.
OK- So you know how to help me spec out an Engine, Here is a list of mods I HAVE or WILL HAVE when the 427 goes into the car. So considering that, Help me spec out a NASTY Engine.
* The car will have a FULL Tubular Suspension (Strange Front Struts, Rear 12 way Qa1's out Back, UMI K Member, Upper/Lower A Arms, BMR STB, BMR SFC's, And Dbl. Adj. LCA's, PHB, Etc.) and will have a Midwest Chassis Fab 9 rearend ( Options will be Back-brace, Detroit Locker with 3.70's and 35 spline Axles, Drag Bar, Chassis Mounted Tq. Arm, Aluminum Center) Along with the suspension/Rearend will be a BUILT 4L60E with a Yank SS4000 Stall or depending if I blow thru it this season, I'll be going with a TH400 and 4K + Stall. Exhaust is 1 7/8" TSP Longtube Headers and 3" TSP Rumbler "X" True Duals. (I will have it tuned by Either Chad at GLM, Mike Norris Motorsports, Speed inc., OR Ron at Vengeance) Basically whoever can fit it in at the time. All are GREAT Companies IMO.
Goals are:
-An engine that will produce As Close to 600 rwhp as possible. (Being an Auto I understand how hard this will be.)
-Mainly concerned with power under the curve and not really Peak Power. This is a STREET CAR! So I don't wanna REV to the moon to get Power out of the car.
-I am Looking for 9's with an NA 427 Build.
-NO solid Roller Cams (Hydraulic Roller Only)
Now here is what I'm thinking...
An LS3 427 with a Callies Forged Crank, Callies Rods, And Wiseco Flat Top Pistons yielding around 11.5:1 Compression for the Short Block Assm.
Heads: I am thinking of maybe using either CNC Ported LS3/L92 heads or going with a set of TFS 235cc Heads from TEA. (Any Suggestions)
Intake: Depending on the Heads, I was thinking of a Vengeance Racing Ported- FAST 92 or maybe the FAST LSXR 102mm Intake (Any Suggestions)
Cam: If I go with the LS3/L92 Heads I was looking at the LG G6X3 Cam
And if I run the TFS 235's I have "NO CLUE" which cam I'd be best running. (Any Suggestions)
My Current setup:
LS2 403 Stroker with "STOCK" LS6 Heads. It has a 248/254 .615/.623 110 LSA Cam in it. And has a FAST 92/92 setup on it right now. Level 4 4L60E with a Yank SS4000 Stall, 1 3/4" PS LT's and 3" TSP Duals, NASTY Perf. Fuel Rails & 42# Inj., Stock 10 Bolt with 3.42's and Girdle. I have Most of the suspension mods now, but the rest are going in this winter. Font Suspension is STOCK as of Now But it's gonna be a Full UMI Tubular Kit. With Strange Front Struts & etc.
The car drives awesome as it is and has gone a best of 10.993 @125.6 mph NA. Only thing I noticed is it needs a little MORE gear. So thats why I'm going to the 3.70's in the 9 inch.
^^^ Right Above I added what I have in the car now so you have a reference as to what is "Driveable" to me. The car drives Like a STOCK Camaro other than the Cam and Stall. So I can go wilder on the Cam with no problems. BASED on what I have listed here, I am asking for someone to help me build a NASTY 427.
THANK YOU in advance for all of your help.
James
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We could certainly help with your goals and please email fraser@speedinc.com for motor info
..... but I have to ask a few questions.
why not make a head and intake swap on the current motor?
why not upgrade the trans to a Level7 over the TH400 when it's mainly a street car?
and in addition to the trans why not work on a converter swap more suited for max effort NA.. not saying the SS4000 doesn't work awesome, but you might see more from a custom converter from Yank built for the combo
3.73-4.10 with the correct stall / tire combo will make for a good street/strip setup
I suggest do all your suspension, exhaust and rearend upgrades as you mentioned + take weight out. I feel you should be able to get close to meeting your ET goals while spending less money since you already have a great start. This would allow to really get everything else addressed suspension, driveline, etc.
a close friend has a Ls2 402 we did with ported 243's, 90/90 and with just a couple passes was going bottom 10's at 132mph
car was 3200ish race weight
low 1.4 60ft
4.10, 28" tire, 4800 stall on brake / TH400 ( but a 60E can work just as well with the right stall / build )
We made a stall change and he never got the car back out, but we feel we should a 9 sec pass come spring. ( damn snow here )
make 600 rwhp most likely not , but it's the ET/MPH that counts and not the dyno
let us know if we can help
Happy New Year
..... but I have to ask a few questions.
why not make a head and intake swap on the current motor?
why not upgrade the trans to a Level7 over the TH400 when it's mainly a street car?
and in addition to the trans why not work on a converter swap more suited for max effort NA.. not saying the SS4000 doesn't work awesome, but you might see more from a custom converter from Yank built for the combo
3.73-4.10 with the correct stall / tire combo will make for a good street/strip setup
I suggest do all your suspension, exhaust and rearend upgrades as you mentioned + take weight out. I feel you should be able to get close to meeting your ET goals while spending less money since you already have a great start. This would allow to really get everything else addressed suspension, driveline, etc.
a close friend has a Ls2 402 we did with ported 243's, 90/90 and with just a couple passes was going bottom 10's at 132mph
car was 3200ish race weight
low 1.4 60ft
4.10, 28" tire, 4800 stall on brake / TH400 ( but a 60E can work just as well with the right stall / build )
We made a stall change and he never got the car back out, but we feel we should a 9 sec pass come spring. ( damn snow here )
make 600 rwhp most likely not , but it's the ET/MPH that counts and not the dyno
let us know if we can help
Happy New Year
Last edited by LS1 SPEED; 01-01-2010 at 09:46 AM.
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That is about the exact setup for my 2002 Formula which I bracket race. It has a SDPC L92/LS3 427 with PRC cnc'd L92 heads, 4L60 trans, 3800 stall FTI conv and it weighs 3350 w/ 1/2 tank fuel (no driver). It usually runs 10.5s and has run a best of 10.34 in -1100 DA. It will be hard to go 9s NA with this setup unless you get the weight down to 3100ish(no driver) and run like a 5500 stall and 4.30 gears, which would not be very streetable. I drive 200-400 mile a week in my Formula and it still has a full factory interior, air, heat,Monsoon stereo and I drive my car to the track unless its a 4-5 hour drive. So I would not gut my car and do 5500 stall and 4.30 gears.
Dave
Dave
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Check out my home page. I've built quite a few 9 second N/A F-bodies. Your goals are achievable although from experience, there are some things that I recommend you consider. Give me a call and I can spec and engine for you. www.rapidmotorsports.com
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We could certainly help with your goals and please email fraser@speedinc.com for motor info
..... but I have to ask a few questions.
why not make a head and intake swap on the current motor?
I would not be against this, However, I am selling the engine to a friend if everything works out as planned. So I'm looking into a 427 b/c that was my original plan b4 I bought this engine.
why not upgrade the trans to a Level7 over the TH400 when it's mainly a street car?
To be honest, I would love to keep the 4L60E but I'm beginning to worry about how much power they will hold as opposed to a th400. I drive my car ALOT on the street and yet do not want to worry about tranny problems when I go to the track. Since I do not trailor my car, The th400 is obviously stronger and would be less to worry about IMO. If you can lead me into the right direction, I'd be more than happy to look into a 4l60e. And see I have almost 3k into my current 4l60e setup and don't want to buy another if I am just gonna break the new transmission at my new power level.
and in addition to the trans why not work on a converter swap more suited for max effort NA.. not saying the SS4000 doesn't work awesome, but you might see more from a custom converter from Yank built for the combo
Thats also a plan. If I can get an engine spec'd out along with a cam size and gear size and trans/converter combo. I would go that route. I am not opposed to anything at this moment. I'm looking for ANY ideas to help reach a 9 second NA pass with my car. Whether I need to sell everything and start over, I will if needed. With that in mind what type of converter would be ideal for MAX effort NA setup like what I'm wanting to do.
3.73-4.10 with the correct stall / tire combo will make for a good street/strip setup
So if I go with 4.10's and say a 28" tall tire would my driveability be iffy? I do alot of highway driving and would like to be able to turn 70 mph at a little less than 3000 rpms. Anymore rpm's than that, (over a period of time) is hard on an engine over time. IMO
I suggest do all your suspension, exhaust and rearend upgrades as you mentioned + take weight out. I feel you should be able to get close to meeting your ET goals while spending less money since you already have a great start. This would allow to really get everything else addressed suspension, driveline, etc.
I agree, I have done SOME weight mods already. (front bumper support, COMPLETE AC delete -Kept the heat, front sway bar, carpet-replaced with lightweight, no back seats, and passenger comes out at the track also has no passenger side airbag, and gonna change out the drivers steering wheel with a "Grant" one to delete the air bag.) And I will have a FULL suspension and MWC Fab9 in it by summer. Then it's on to the 427 or ???.
a close friend has a Ls2 402 we did with ported 243's, 90/90 and with just a couple passes was going bottom 10's at 132mph
car was 3200ish race weight
low 1.4 60ft
4.10, 28" tire, 4800 stall on brake / TH400 ( but a 60E can work just as well with the right stall / build )
We made a stall change and he never got the car back out, but we feel we should a 9 sec pass come spring. ( damn snow here )
make 600 rwhp most likely not , but it's the ET/MPH that counts and not the dyno
Thats the truth, (mph/et count most) In a 6 speed car the #'s are always higher and I'm not concerned really with 600rwhp. I just want to reach a 9 second NA car goal that I now have. And I know that 600rwhp will get me there, so thats why I said that.
let us know if we can help
Happy New Year
..... but I have to ask a few questions.
why not make a head and intake swap on the current motor?
I would not be against this, However, I am selling the engine to a friend if everything works out as planned. So I'm looking into a 427 b/c that was my original plan b4 I bought this engine.
why not upgrade the trans to a Level7 over the TH400 when it's mainly a street car?
To be honest, I would love to keep the 4L60E but I'm beginning to worry about how much power they will hold as opposed to a th400. I drive my car ALOT on the street and yet do not want to worry about tranny problems when I go to the track. Since I do not trailor my car, The th400 is obviously stronger and would be less to worry about IMO. If you can lead me into the right direction, I'd be more than happy to look into a 4l60e. And see I have almost 3k into my current 4l60e setup and don't want to buy another if I am just gonna break the new transmission at my new power level.
and in addition to the trans why not work on a converter swap more suited for max effort NA.. not saying the SS4000 doesn't work awesome, but you might see more from a custom converter from Yank built for the combo
Thats also a plan. If I can get an engine spec'd out along with a cam size and gear size and trans/converter combo. I would go that route. I am not opposed to anything at this moment. I'm looking for ANY ideas to help reach a 9 second NA pass with my car. Whether I need to sell everything and start over, I will if needed. With that in mind what type of converter would be ideal for MAX effort NA setup like what I'm wanting to do.
3.73-4.10 with the correct stall / tire combo will make for a good street/strip setup
So if I go with 4.10's and say a 28" tall tire would my driveability be iffy? I do alot of highway driving and would like to be able to turn 70 mph at a little less than 3000 rpms. Anymore rpm's than that, (over a period of time) is hard on an engine over time. IMO
I suggest do all your suspension, exhaust and rearend upgrades as you mentioned + take weight out. I feel you should be able to get close to meeting your ET goals while spending less money since you already have a great start. This would allow to really get everything else addressed suspension, driveline, etc.
I agree, I have done SOME weight mods already. (front bumper support, COMPLETE AC delete -Kept the heat, front sway bar, carpet-replaced with lightweight, no back seats, and passenger comes out at the track also has no passenger side airbag, and gonna change out the drivers steering wheel with a "Grant" one to delete the air bag.) And I will have a FULL suspension and MWC Fab9 in it by summer. Then it's on to the 427 or ???.
a close friend has a Ls2 402 we did with ported 243's, 90/90 and with just a couple passes was going bottom 10's at 132mph
car was 3200ish race weight
low 1.4 60ft
4.10, 28" tire, 4800 stall on brake / TH400 ( but a 60E can work just as well with the right stall / build )
We made a stall change and he never got the car back out, but we feel we should a 9 sec pass come spring. ( damn snow here )
make 600 rwhp most likely not , but it's the ET/MPH that counts and not the dyno
Thats the truth, (mph/et count most) In a 6 speed car the #'s are always higher and I'm not concerned really with 600rwhp. I just want to reach a 9 second NA car goal that I now have. And I know that 600rwhp will get me there, so thats why I said that.
let us know if we can help
Happy New Year
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL OF YOU AT SPEED INC.
JAMES
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Caveman thank you for the input as well. I agree with what you have to say as well. It looks like something will have to be sacrificed in the long run to achieve a 9 second car. Whether it be some streetability or ??? Or a WELL thought out Combo, which is what i'd really like to put together. (thus why I posted here)
And mikey, Could you send me some info on what you think might put my car into the 9's? I am very curious as to which route to go and at this moment am very open for whatever it's gonna take to reach my goals.
Thank You in advance.
James
And mikey, Could you send me some info on what you think might put my car into the 9's? I am very curious as to which route to go and at this moment am very open for whatever it's gonna take to reach my goals.
Thank You in advance.
James
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I'm looking into a few ideas and am quite pleased with the help from the sponsors on here. Also if some members would like to chime in and let me know about their combo's and what kind of times and some pros/cons with a 427, I'd appreciate it. All the help I can get the better.
Thanks
James
Thanks
James
#11
I don't think that you will be able to run that 9 without an 8" converter and 600 hp through a th350 or 400 N/A, pump gas and hydraulic will be impossible.
3300lbs with a hydraulic 427 at 11:5:1 making a 9 second pass is doable. I think you should consider a bit more compression, maybe 12, 12:5:1, you could still drive it on pump and race it on race, maybe 104-110 octane.
My hydraulic 441 13:1 made 536rwhp through the th350, 8"vert,12 bolt and 3:73's. Converter stalls at around 4400 (converter is KEY, can't stress this enough)
I race on 110-at 3240lbs my car went 9.59@138 for a best.
I'm a little limited with the stock intake but you get the idea.
3300lbs with a hydraulic 427 at 11:5:1 making a 9 second pass is doable. I think you should consider a bit more compression, maybe 12, 12:5:1, you could still drive it on pump and race it on race, maybe 104-110 octane.
My hydraulic 441 13:1 made 536rwhp through the th350, 8"vert,12 bolt and 3:73's. Converter stalls at around 4400 (converter is KEY, can't stress this enough)
I race on 110-at 3240lbs my car went 9.59@138 for a best.
I'm a little limited with the stock intake but you get the idea.
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Give Mikey a call. He build my 427 build and did a exellent job. I made 572rwhp through a S60. Mike and Tim do top notch work. you will not be dissapointed. PM me if you have any questions.
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Hey James, what kind of rear suspension setup and tire combo do you have on it now and what was you best 60ft. you ever had?
Engine recommendations: Different heads AFR225s+, Port your 90/90 and add more scr for sure.
Engine recommendations: Different heads AFR225s+, Port your 90/90 and add more scr for sure.
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Right now I have the stock 10 bolt with 3.42's. But before I get the car out this year, It will be a 9 inch. I am working with Eric at MWC to get a fab 9 with all the goodies in and on it. Along with a tunnel mount tq. arm and drag bar he offers. The front suspension will be ALL UMI (considering it's a street car I'm not gonna use solid rod ends on anything other than the lower A-Arms that they offer/come with). I'm working on getting that stuff as we speak, and I will have strange struts in the front as well as all of the rear suspension is already done, and will be complete when the MWC Fab9 goes into the car in the spring.
Also as for the SCR, I am running close to 12.1:1 now with my 403, so I'm not against running higher compression. Considering on a NA setup that will only help. And also, I will be selling my un-ported Fast 92 intake to my brother, and was gonna order the Ported FAST 92 from Ron at Vengeance simply b/c I'd only have $200 more in it by the time I sold mine to my brother. Unless I need to be looking into another intake to help this thing breathe??? Any oppinions?
As for the engine setup, I was thinking of an LS3 427 with TFS 235cc Heads and a custom grind cam, along with the compression somewhere close to the 12:1 +/- a little and with the Ported FAST 92/92 setup (or whatever is recommended)and 1 7/8" Longtube Headers and 3" TD's. Not to mention the transmission will probably be a BUILT 4L60E with a custom Converter (Need Help Here guys) or a TH400 with a Coan Stall. (custom Built for the application) and then The MWC Fab9 Rearend with a Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 3.70 gears (or whatever is prefered) Chassis Mounted Tq. Arm, and a FULL Suspension to top off the Project.
I guess you can say I'm just looking for any ideas or critics against what I am planning. I am open for all oppinions and just want a solid Combo. I have spoke with Chris at CC Performance Parts and we have figured out a few things and he is positive that Eric at HKE can get me into the 9's NA with a built 427. So I am SERIOUSLY thinking thats the route I will be going. But again, If someone can help with personal experience as to what it will take to reach 9's I'd love to hear the different ideas.
I haven't had the time to reach any of the other sponsors to hear their oppinions, due to me working during the day and when I get home the companies are usually closed.
So feel free to shoot me a PM if you are reading this with what you feel I will need to reach my goal, or what you can do for me.
Thanks
James
Also as for the SCR, I am running close to 12.1:1 now with my 403, so I'm not against running higher compression. Considering on a NA setup that will only help. And also, I will be selling my un-ported Fast 92 intake to my brother, and was gonna order the Ported FAST 92 from Ron at Vengeance simply b/c I'd only have $200 more in it by the time I sold mine to my brother. Unless I need to be looking into another intake to help this thing breathe??? Any oppinions?
As for the engine setup, I was thinking of an LS3 427 with TFS 235cc Heads and a custom grind cam, along with the compression somewhere close to the 12:1 +/- a little and with the Ported FAST 92/92 setup (or whatever is recommended)and 1 7/8" Longtube Headers and 3" TD's. Not to mention the transmission will probably be a BUILT 4L60E with a custom Converter (Need Help Here guys) or a TH400 with a Coan Stall. (custom Built for the application) and then The MWC Fab9 Rearend with a Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 3.70 gears (or whatever is prefered) Chassis Mounted Tq. Arm, and a FULL Suspension to top off the Project.
I guess you can say I'm just looking for any ideas or critics against what I am planning. I am open for all oppinions and just want a solid Combo. I have spoke with Chris at CC Performance Parts and we have figured out a few things and he is positive that Eric at HKE can get me into the 9's NA with a built 427. So I am SERIOUSLY thinking thats the route I will be going. But again, If someone can help with personal experience as to what it will take to reach 9's I'd love to hear the different ideas.
I haven't had the time to reach any of the other sponsors to hear their oppinions, due to me working during the day and when I get home the companies are usually closed.
So feel free to shoot me a PM if you are reading this with what you feel I will need to reach my goal, or what you can do for me.
Thanks
James
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I don't think that you will be able to run that 9 without an 8" converter and 600 hp through a th350 or 400 N/A, pump gas and hydraulic will be impossible.
3300lbs with a hydraulic 427 at 11:5:1 making a 9 second pass is doable. I think you should consider a bit more compression, maybe 12, 12:5:1, you could still drive it on pump and race it on race, maybe 104-110 octane.
My hydraulic 441 13:1 made 536rwhp through the th350, 8"vert,12 bolt and 3:73's. Converter stalls at around 4400 (converter is KEY, can't stress this enough)
I race on 110-at 3240lbs my car went 9.59@138 for a best.
I'm a little limited with the stock intake but you get the idea.
3300lbs with a hydraulic 427 at 11:5:1 making a 9 second pass is doable. I think you should consider a bit more compression, maybe 12, 12:5:1, you could still drive it on pump and race it on race, maybe 104-110 octane.
My hydraulic 441 13:1 made 536rwhp through the th350, 8"vert,12 bolt and 3:73's. Converter stalls at around 4400 (converter is KEY, can't stress this enough)
I race on 110-at 3240lbs my car went 9.59@138 for a best.
I'm a little limited with the stock intake but you get the idea.
Assuming I'm using a TH 400- Maybe a Coan 4000??? And assuming I'm using a 4L60E- Maybe a Yank or Circle D 4400 ???
Which converter or other converter would be best for 1 or the other???
Thanks to everyone helping me with this build!
James
#16
Best to use an 8" convereter, Coan is good, I use Neal Chance-customer service is Awesesome and a great product. With an 8" converter you will lose the lock up on the 4L60 so keep that in mind, you'll still have OD just no lock up.
Cartek built my motor, you should certainly give them a call 908 317 4496
Cartek built my motor, you should certainly give them a call 908 317 4496
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Best to use an 8" convereter, Coan is good, I use Neal Chance-customer service is Awesesome and a great product. With an 8" converter you will lose the lock up on the 4L60 so keep that in mind, you'll still have OD just no lock up.
Cartek built my motor, you should certainly give them a call 908 317 4496
Cartek built my motor, you should certainly give them a call 908 317 4496
Also, I will look into Cartek and see what they have to say. I'm really looking into whats the best route and the more advice I get the better. I just want it done right and with no issues.
James
(BTW, If anyone has a solid combo I should look into.... Please, share with me.)
#19
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Solid rollers have come along way. I drive mine on the street ocasionally. The cold lash is set at .002 cold on the cam motion stuff so not real radical lash like the old days. The 245's might be a hair big but I have found alot of guys do prefer them over the 235's even for a 427. Also, if you ever go bigger or FI you will be a head of the game. All the numbers in my sig are 100% 93 pump gas. Never had a race gas tune put in the car so there is quite a bit more in it. Also, power under the curve is alot better than hyd. And on a side note solid rollers sound soo much better.
Just some ideas to throw at you not trying to convince anyone of my opinions just some things to think about. Good luck to you either way and get that thing on a diet.
Just some ideas to throw at you not trying to convince anyone of my opinions just some things to think about. Good luck to you either way and get that thing on a diet.
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Thats cool, I respect you throwing out the ideas. I'd just like to stick with a hydraulic roller setup since mine is more of a daily driver and I also would not want to limit the power by putting on a FAST 92 when I think a Solid Roller Cam setup that would spin higher would probably benefit from a single plane intake. Which for a street car, I don't want to use b/c of having to cut the cowl up when running an elbow, or running an accufab 4 brl TB and having no room for a breather. Just my oppinion... But Thank You Again for your insight on that combo.