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anybody else converted a 24x/1x signal motor over to a 58x/4x signal motor?

Old 10-07-2010, 11:56 AM
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Default anybody else converted a 24x/1x signal motor over to a 58x/4x signal motor?

im done with alil dragboat engine project and bout ready to sit it in the boat but the only thing i've lost any sleep over is how i converted the motor over and msd techs have no clue if what i did is gonna work with my 6012msd system. here's what i done, if anyone has done it before please let me know how it worked out for ya.

started out with a 02 lm7 5.3

made myself a reluctor alignment tool with a old 5.3 crank with a 24x wheel on it from factory. knocked off the 24x wheel on my new gm crank, stuck crank in deepfreeze over nite. next day i put the 58x wheel in oven for 30mins around 350*, pulled it out and had the crank ready , aligned the wheel, 1 small pop with a mallet and wheel was down nicely. after crank and wheel reached room temp i double checked to make sure it was on good, and its there! ok crank should be right.now its 58x instead of 24x

next was the relocation of the cam sensor to the frt cover. ordered a nice new cover with gasket/sensor/bolts/harness from ebay cheap, and when it came time to find a double roller billet true roller chain in a 4x cam gear, all i could get was a jp performance set texas speed sold me for the ls7 motors. i do the normal mods to the frt cover to clear the shimmed forward oil pump, install the chain set at 0 and put the cam degree wheel on to double check, alls good there! bolt up the frt cover, with sensor out cam gear reluctor passes nicely by like it should.

ok here's whats been on my brain and cant seem to shake the feeling its gonna bite me when i get around to firing this thing off for the 1st time. the ls7 chain set i put in the engine has 427 ls7 written on the packaging and it has me worried that the cam gear isnt phased like the stock cam gear on a 4x cam signal 5.3 say for instance. am i wrong to worry or is this a nonissue? was thinking the 427 was a taller block? maybe im wrong, there was no slack in the chain, went on like you'd expect a basic old 350 chain feel.any opinions? am i worry'n bout nothing?

btw, i did build a timing tab and tdc'd the motor prior to head installation
Old 10-07-2010, 08:07 PM
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I put a 3 bolt '08 LS7 top cam gear in my Ly6 to remove the VVT when going to a comp cam, and it works fine with my MSD 6012 box.
Just currious, were you able to check the crank reluctor against TDC? I am currious if you got the crank reluctor bang on, or if its out a degree or so????
Old 10-08-2010, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1

ok here's whats been on my brain and cant seem to shake the feeling its gonna bite me when i get around to firing this thing off for the 1st time. the ls7 chain set i put in the engine has 427 ls7 written on the packaging and it has me worried that the cam gear isnt phased like the stock cam gear on a 4x cam signal 5.3 say for instance. am i wrong to worry or is this a nonissue? was thinking the 427 was a taller block? maybe im wrong, there was no slack in the chain, went on like you'd expect a basic old 350 chain feel.any opinions? am i worry'n bout nothing?

btw, i did build a timing tab and tdc'd the motor prior to head installation
JP/Rollmaster label all Gen IV 4X/58X timing sets as LS7 (LS7 was first 58X). Nothing to worry about.
Old 10-08-2010, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rsz288
JP/Rollmaster label all Gen IV 4X/58X timing sets as LS7 (LS7 was first 58X). Nothing to worry about.
man that's awesome news!!! ya jus dont know how much i think about it and was worry'n lol, i appreciated the info brother!
Old 10-08-2010, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 3pedals
I put a 3 bolt '08 LS7 top cam gear in my Ly6 to remove the VVT when going to a comp cam, and it works fine with my MSD 6012 box.
Just currious, were you able to check the crank reluctor against TDC? I am currious if you got the crank reluctor bang on, or if its out a degree or so????
well i did mark the old reluctor to the crank before i popped it off, then i marked the new wheel with the old jus to see where it lined up with my homemade tool and it's dead on, if anything i guess its possible to be a degree off, but no more than that. that reluctor tool is 120bucks and i had the stuff to make it, so i did and it worked pretty good. i did also tdc the engine during the build and built myself a permenant timing tab up frt and marked the vette balancer when i did. couple weeks ago i put a timing tape on it as well, so technically i'll be able to look at the msd timing and compare it to what the crank actually tells me. if msd says i'm at 15*, timing lite should show the same.did everything i could during the signal conversion to prevent detonation due to over zealous timing.
Old 10-09-2010, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1
well i did mark the old reluctor to the crank before i popped it off, then i marked the new wheel with the old jus to see where it lined up with my homemade tool and it's dead on, if anything i guess its possible to be a degree off, but no more than that. that reluctor tool is 120bucks and i had the stuff to make it, so i did and it worked pretty good. i did also tdc the engine during the build and built myself a permenant timing tab up frt and marked the vette balancer when i did. couple weeks ago i put a timing tape on it as well, so technically i'll be able to look at the msd timing and compare it to what the crank actually tells me. if msd says i'm at 15*, timing lite should show the same.did everything i could during the signal conversion to prevent detonation due to over zealous timing.
FWIW your own tool is probably more accurate. Most aftermarket cranks are a few degrees away from a GM crank and GM cranks are always spot on.
Old 10-11-2010, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rsz288
FWIW your own tool is probably more accurate. Most aftermarket cranks are a few degrees away from a GM crank and GM cranks are always spot on.
sweet! since i have a 6012msd i figure ill use the lil tool alot at some point lol


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