Anybody running titanium valves on a set of 243's on a DD ? Looking to run this setup and need some input. Have been hearing horrible things so kinda having second thoughts. |
Originally Posted by blakss
(Post 14768126)
Looking to run this setup and need some input. Have been hearing horrible things so kinda having second thoughts. If you are building a DD, why the Ti valves? |
Jus looking to free up some weight and speed up the revs. And well got a good deal on the set so was trying to have them put in while I was having the head work done but the people who are doing the head work are telling me its not worth it because I need copper valve guides and copper beryilium seats and to get them install and everything its gunna get expensive . And that I was better off with LS3 valves . |
Originally Posted by blakss
(Post 14768731)
Jus looking to free up some weight and speed up the revs. And well got a good deal on the set so was trying to have them put in while I was having the head work done but the people who are doing the head work are telling me its not worth it because I need copper valve guides and copper beryilium seats and to get them install and everything its gunna get expensive . And that I was better off with LS3 valves . Before I made a decision I would look at OEM LS7 heads for valveguide and valve seat material. Your head shop probably meant bronze guides. How many Ti valved LS heads have they done? Not sure what you mean by "speed up the revs". Lighter valves, when combined with the correct valvetrain parts will allow higher maximum rpm while maintaining valvetrain control, but they really don't help the engine accelerate faster. Check the weight of a Ti intake vs. an OEM LS3 (hollow) vs. an L92 truck intake. Ti is definitely lighter, but unless you engine is pulling well above 7000 there are better things to do with your money. Some head shops are just that...they are not valvetrain experts. Evidence of that is some of the valve, spring and retainer combinations they put on their heads. Good valvetrain design should be part of your engine's plan. Sadly, many times it is not. Jon |
Originally Posted by Old SStroker
(Post 14772127)
Good valvetrain design should be part of your engine's plan. Sadly, many times it is not. Jon |
OP: You should get the Ti valves coated if they are not already. Otherwise they will not last long on the street. |
Originally Posted by Stage7
(Post 14772209)
OP: You should get the Ti valves coated if they are not already. Otherwise they will not last long on the street. or do you know something we dont.. :confused: OP, what RPM do you plan on spinning to? |
Stage7- Yea they are already coated. But working on having them trimmed down and recoated, heard they should be fine with the coating on the street. |
Originally Posted by Fb0dy0nly
(Post 14773378)
Im pretty sure that GM designed the ls7 to be driven on the street... or do you know something we dont.. :confused: Of course GM intends the ls7 to be a street motor. That's why they coat the titanium valves in the ls7 heads. |
Fbody- Yea that's what I'm saying ,everyone is saying you need CuBe seats and bronze valve guides to make this even remotely possible. And I'm not trying to go that high if anything right around 6500 . |
SStroker- Yea your right kinda hard making decisions because I'm not to familiar with the LS7 heads at all and from all the research that I've done looks like they ran titanium valves with regular plain jane seats. So from what I see I should be fine but every one else(the shops that I called) call me a witch! Lol they say that that's not gunna work without bronze valve guides and CuBe seats , Sorry I was in a rush before and wrote copper. But either way the shop I called says I'm better off running the LS3 valves, never even looked at the L92 valves, but know the valves I got weigh 71 grams idk how the compare to the rest. And true about the valvetrain combos. Most people lead me in the Dual spring combos which I wasn't a fan of but I think I'm gunna give it a try. And as for the decision, I got a good deal on the valves so figured I'd see if I could work with it or if not go a different route. |
What Jon said. I looked into runnning Ti valves but they have issues with parts compatability. I went with the REV valves for an LS3 they are a better part for the money. Imop. Check and see if they have aset for the 243 heads. |
Originally Posted by Old SStroker
(Post 14772127)
Before I made a decision I would look at OEM LS7 heads for valveguide and valve seat material. Your head shop probably meant bronze guides. How many Ti valved LS heads have they done? Not sure what you mean by "speed up the revs". Lighter valves, when combined with the correct valvetrain parts will allow higher maximum rpm while maintaining valvetrain control, but they really don't help the engine accelerate faster. Check the weight of a Ti intake vs. an OEM LS3 (hollow) vs. an L92 truck intake. Ti is definitely lighter, but unless you engine is pulling well above 7000 there are better things to do with your money. Some head shops are just that...they are not valvetrain experts. Evidence of that is some of the valve, spring and retainer combinations they put on their heads. Good valvetrain design should be part of your engine's plan. Sadly, many times it is not. Jon Have you expressly omitted to mention the rockers, the pushrods, the lifters, and the lobe design when you write about valvetrain expert? Christian |
Originally Posted by miami993c297
(Post 14788250)
Hello Jon, Have you expressly omitted to mention the rockers, the pushrods, the lifters, and the lobe design when you write about valvetrain expert? Christian My "correct valvetrain parts" comment broadly hinted at this. You are most correct: valvetrain stability starts with the lobe design and includes all of the bits. One weak link in the valvetrain chain will "screw the pooch". Too many valvetrains have more than one weak link. I believe you have experienced valvetrain woes that were corrected when the correct parts were used. Regards, Jon |
Originally Posted by Old SStroker
(Post 14791595)
Christian, My "correct valvetrain parts" comment broadly hinted at this. You are most correct: valvetrain stability starts with the lobe design and includes all of the bits. One weak link in the valvetrain chain will "screw the pooch". Too many valvetrains have more than one weak link. I believe you have experienced valvetrain woes that were corrected when the correct parts were used. Regards, Jon I didn't know you could replace "costly nightmares" by "woes"!!! Christian |
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