More info on LS2 erl dry sleeved block?
02-12-2012, 09:04 AM
#65
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Update. The block came in Friday and I must say it is absolutely amazing. Not only has Seth been great to deal with since October but I couldn't believe the attention to detail on the paper work that came with the block. They documented everything there is to document on building a bottom end minus the mood the builder was in while building(surprised I didn't get that haha) all nice and neat in a clear envelope. The block is so pretty I don't want to put it together I want to sleep with it under my pillow lol. And yes I have the top end. Its a set of TEA (nitrous)ported trickflow 245s. The cam is Vengeance spec'd and pretty large(hopefully I can tune it to be able to drive) 262/266 624 624@113+3. He said the cubes and my transmission (mn12) should make this cam streetable and put down some serious power NA and even more with nitrous.
02-15-2012, 08:16 AM
#66
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Hi I like what you're doing very much. Out of all the LS Z swap projects/guys, you are by far the best.
A couple of years ago I was at Lebanon Valley Drags trying to figure out my traction & second gear problems, there was a silver turbo v6 350z with the hood up. Looked like it was having some problems. Was that you? your car?
I'm hoping to have an LS powered Z before April. Like I stated at the time when I considered buying your car, I wanted a reliable street car & a weekend consistent, bracket racer(love those big trophies
My plan is to drive to the track, do 11.5's & drive home
Raceway Park & Atco is where I mostly race. This year I think (since it's the closest) Lebonon might be my home track.
Hope to see you there.
Andre
A couple of years ago I was at Lebanon Valley Drags trying to figure out my traction & second gear problems, there was a silver turbo v6 350z with the hood up. Looked like it was having some problems. Was that you? your car?
I'm hoping to have an LS powered Z before April. Like I stated at the time when I considered buying your car, I wanted a reliable street car & a weekend consistent, bracket racer(love those big trophies
My plan is to drive to the track, do 11.5's & drive homeRaceway Park & Atco is where I mostly race. This year I think (since it's the closest) Lebonon might be my home track.
Hope to see you there.
Andre
03-10-2012, 06:56 PM
#68
The early LS1 that has the un-equal length head studs are the ones we don't want to mess with. Honestly after we do our Superdeck I sleeving to the LS1/6, LS2, LS3, LS7 and 5.3 they are all simular. We have 5.3 blocks we have sleeved that are at 2500 hp and one just won the 2011 LSX Shootout! 
We have sleeved many LS6 blocks and have quite a few of them out west in sand rails and we've got them still running strong after years and years of abuse with nitrous and blowers.
I will however only be able to Dry Sleeve an LS2, LS3, LS7 and 5.3 liter block. Included with all our ERL Superdeck I sleeving is a set of doweled billet main caps, ARP main stud kit, finish cylinder hone and align hone and bore.
You can get your ERL Dry Sleeve block with all those options done as well. We can certainly finish it out for you so you don't have to keep taking it to a bunch of different shops to get work done that we actually do all in house.
One last thing that I wanted to mention that I think is important about our sleeves is that ours are all American made! To me that's important.
We have sleeved many LS6 blocks and have quite a few of them out west in sand rails and we've got them still running strong after years and years of abuse with nitrous and blowers.
I will however only be able to Dry Sleeve an LS2, LS3, LS7 and 5.3 liter block. Included with all our ERL Superdeck I sleeving is a set of doweled billet main caps, ARP main stud kit, finish cylinder hone and align hone and bore.
You can get your ERL Dry Sleeve block with all those options done as well. We can certainly finish it out for you so you don't have to keep taking it to a bunch of different shops to get work done that we actually do all in house.
One last thing that I wanted to mention that I think is important about our sleeves is that ours are all American made! To me that's important.
03-16-2012, 08:23 PM
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ok i have no idea about the first thing on a LS motor but i came across an LQ4 that i recently purchased from a lady who's son said the motor "had a knock" i didnt pay much attention to it but then she said i can have it for $50 so i immediately loaded it in the truck and it was mine lol... anyways the reason i am commenting is because i kept seeing this $1550 price previously in the thread, did you pay $1550 to get the 434 c.i. (4X4.155)??? or was the price just for the "sleeving"?
03-16-2012, 11:08 PM
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ok i have no idea about the first thing on a LS motor but i came across an LQ4 that i recently purchased from a lady who's son said the motor "had a knock" i didnt pay much attention to it but then she said i can have it for $50 so i immediately loaded it in the truck and it was mine lol... anyways the reason i am commenting is because i kept seeing this $1550 price previously in the thread, did you pay $1550 to get the 434 c.i. (4X4.155)??? or was the price just for the "sleeving"?
04-27-2012, 10:51 AM
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lamar, did you ever get those numbers figured out? ive seen those numbers back to 03, but didnt think the gen IV started that early.
im starting to look again as well. going to call steve in the next few days and would love to get the block done.
im starting to look again as well. going to call steve in the next few days and would love to get the block done.
04-28-2012, 06:12 PM
#72
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Got the car running last night. With the melling hi volume and 20/50 I'm getting about 18psi at idle (hot) and about 55psi by 4k and the just about stays there. 
ERL forgot to replace my rear oil barbell so I can the car for about 30 seconds with about 10psi of oil to the sender and 0 to the heads. I'm not sure if this is a normal oil pressure or if something is already hurt but I'm very annoyed.
ERL forgot to replace my rear oil barbell so I can the car for about 30 seconds with about 10psi of oil to the sender and 0 to the heads. I'm not sure if this is a normal oil pressure or if something is already hurt but I'm very annoyed.
04-28-2012, 06:48 PM
#73
Barbells dont usually "wear out". As long as its installed, there shouldn't be an issue. 10 psi per 1000 Rpms should be fine, even if it's only 55-65 at redline.
Also, keep in mind these are not priority oiling blocks- so it feeds the left side valvetrain first, then the cam and mains/rods.
Also, keep in mind these are not priority oiling blocks- so it feeds the left side valvetrain first, then the cam and mains/rods.
04-28-2012, 06:48 PM
#74
Barbells dont usually "wear out". As long as its installed, there shouldn't be an issue. 10 psi per 1000 Rpms should be fine, even if it's only 55-65 at redline.
Also, keep in mind these are not priority oiling blocks- so it feeds the left side valvetrain first, then the cam and mains/rods.
Also, keep in mind these are not priority oiling blocks- so it feeds the left side valvetrain first, then the cam and mains/rods.
04-28-2012, 10:20 PM
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ERL forgot to replace my rear oil barbell so I can the car for about 30 seconds with about 10psi of oil to the sender and 0 to the heads.
04-30-2012, 05:06 PM
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not sure im following you. were the 18/55 pressures without the barbell or once you reinstalled it? what do you mean by the sentence above? i wouldnt suspect anything being wrong with the pressures you posted. do you get the above pressures for 30 secs or does it take 30 secs to build pressure?
When I first put the engine together and started it (without the barbell) I got about 10psi...it seems as though running the engine that one start up wiped out the bearings. Now the engine has 150 miles on it and using 20w50 oil with the engine warm I see 18psi at idle and it climbs to 40psi by 2k and from there it maxes out at 45psi by 6500 rpms on the one run I made on it today. It only climbs 5psi from 2k-6500 which would indicate bad bearings. I verified with two different senders. I also notice that at around 3k rpms cruising the oil pressure is right around 40 and when I put load on the engine the oil pressure drops about 2psi and then shoots back up when I let off the gas.
05-01-2012, 12:22 PM
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Bearings. I'm not sending the block back to them and go back and fourth with a blame game. I'm just going to have a local guy who did my last motor fix it. He said starting it with no plug will absolutely do it. I sent the block out with the plug in it (didn't even know it exsisted) and I got it back with no plug. ERL told me they are very good about sending it back how it came which tells me this will turn into a huge battle which I don't have the energy for right now.
Last edited by Snyper; 05-01-2012 at 12:31 PM.
05-01-2012, 01:05 PM
#80
I can't see running it that little wiping out the bearings. I'm curious as to how they look when you pull them apart. I've done some bad bad things with LS engines, and after tear down, they didn't need to be torn down. If they did, they were not even down to the copper yet.