More info on LS2 erl dry sleeved block?
10-13-2011, 06:06 PM
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More info on LS2 erl dry sleeved block? I ordered a brand new LS7 block and after reading up and checking out the website I noticed the ERL dry sleeved block for 1550$. Is that total cost or just labor cost? I already have an LS2 block and it seems as though this might be a better way to a 427 then going with an LS7 block. Also, if I do this with the 4.125" bore can I run an LS7 top end? Seems like a no brainer.....thoughts on this?
Last edited by Snyper; 10-13-2011 at 06:18 PM.
10-13-2011, 06:34 PM
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You can have them make any bore up too 4.185
The block sleeve work is what you mentioned plus shipping
Their is a place though in ct that does the sleeve work also
But they are a little more costly.
2100 plus tax plus line hone decking cylinder hone clean etc
But it might acute ally be cheaper doing it that way vs shipping to erl.
I've done all the homework on the resleeve business.
Then their a shop called r.e.d.
But in California iirc
The block sleeve work is what you mentioned plus shipping
Their is a place though in ct that does the sleeve work also
But they are a little more costly.
2100 plus tax plus line hone decking cylinder hone clean etc
But it might acute ally be cheaper doing it that way vs shipping to erl.
I've done all the homework on the resleeve business.
Then their a shop called r.e.d.
But in California iirc
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10-13-2011, 09:08 PM
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It seems like the right way to go. It will end up costing me about 1500-2000$ less than an LS7 based block while providing the same thing an LS7 block provides but stronger. All said and done, it will still be a stroked LS7 because of the top end im using.
10-14-2011, 03:19 PM
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Don't overlook ERL's Superdeck option for your LS2 either. Wet sleves are stronger, you get billet main caps, ARP studs etc. Costs more than the dry sleeve but still less than a new LS7 block.
10-14-2011, 05:48 PM
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Yeah, I thought about it but for what I'm looking for, the dry sleeves will be more than enough. Looking to do a 441 with a 125 shot and he said the block would be safe at or over a 200 shot with the 4.125 bore since they can be bored out to a 4.185. Also, im shipping him the block(already has main studs) and I already have callies rods so it saves me over 500$. They said they will reuse the rods and take 500$ off the price of the 5000$ shortblock. Im just going to have them build the whole thing. 4500$ for a sleeved 441 isn't bad at all considering I was spending 3k on just a block before.
10-15-2011, 08:39 PM
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This build is going to be 1 bada$$ build. 
Sorry I just wanted to say that. lol
And for $5,000 It's a hell of a deal.
Especially considering you already have the core.
You could always try it out and see how you like it... And if the N20 setup isn't for you... Bore it again (if needed) and do an FI Setup.
If your stuck on LS7 heads you'll need the 4.125 bore minimum.
If you ever want to step up to some aftermarket castings like the TFS 245's, You'll have to have at least a 4.155 Bore. So just keep that in mind in case you ever wanted to use a Big Cathedral Port Cylinder Head. TFS 235's will work on the 4.125 Bore though!
**By using a 4.125 stroke crank and 4.155 bore you'll have a 447 CID Stroker And There would still be room to bore it .030 over and make it a 454 CID Stroker later on. So theoretically you have more room to grow with this setup.
I have also talked to the people at ERL, and they told me you can go to 4.190" Bore... But thats it. And they don't really like going that far. I was told the 4.185" Bore was Perfectly Safe for whatever! I was also told a Dry Sleeve setup can be made into a Wet Sleeve setup, But A Dry Sleeved Block cannot go back to a Dry Sleeve Setup! Just a lil 411 for ya!
As for the Special Coolant... I don't know about that! I have yet to hear about that. But I will inquire about it and post back with what I find!
James
Sorry I just wanted to say that. lol
And for $5,000 It's a hell of a deal.
Especially considering you already have the core.
You could always try it out and see how you like it... And if the N20 setup isn't for you... Bore it again (if needed) and do an FI Setup.
If your stuck on LS7 heads you'll need the 4.125 bore minimum.
If you ever want to step up to some aftermarket castings like the TFS 245's, You'll have to have at least a 4.155 Bore. So just keep that in mind in case you ever wanted to use a Big Cathedral Port Cylinder Head. TFS 235's will work on the 4.125 Bore though!
**By using a 4.125 stroke crank and 4.155 bore you'll have a 447 CID Stroker
And There would still be room to bore it .030 over and make it a 454 CID Stroker later on. So theoretically you have more room to grow with this setup. I have also talked to the people at ERL, and they told me you can go to 4.190" Bore... But thats it. And they don't really like going that far. I was told the 4.185" Bore was Perfectly Safe for whatever! I was also told a Dry Sleeve setup can be made into a Wet Sleeve setup, But A Dry Sleeved Block cannot go back to a Dry Sleeve Setup! Just a lil 411 for ya!
As for the Special Coolant... I don't know about that! I have yet to hear about that. But I will inquire about it and post back with what I find!
James
10-15-2011, 08:45 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm actually coming from a big single turbo setup. When I first swapped the engine into my 350z it was a cam only with a 100 shot making 503whp and the car was a blast. Then I went to an 88mm turbo and made 733whp on the stock engine and then did a full build. The car became a headache at that point and was no longer fun to drive. So I'm going back to NA and nitrous hoping to have some fun again.
10-15-2011, 09:12 PM
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WOW! Sounds like some very FUN setups... 
IMHO, And I'm not trying to tell you what to do. But I would do the 4.155 Bore just so you could go with any "large bore" cylinder head available in the event you dislike the LS7 heads for some reason. And you'd still be able to bore it over .030 if you hurt something later on down the road.
But thats just my oppinion. I always look at both sides of every story. **Able to use the Largest Heads available, and still have more room to grow on the bottom end, if something does go wrong!
And oh I know how it goes... more power = more problems. The "Weakest-Links" pop up like crazy.
I have spent more time wrenching on my old high 10 second NA Camaro than I did driving the thing.... Grrr! lol
I would really like to see what you decide to go with and how it turns out. I can appreciate the hard work going into that car... Your doing a Great Job with it tho, or so it seems!
-James
IMHO, And I'm not trying to tell you what to do.
But I would do the 4.155 Bore just so you could go with any "large bore" cylinder head available in the event you dislike the LS7 heads for some reason. And you'd still be able to bore it over .030 if you hurt something later on down the road. But thats just my oppinion. I always look at both sides of every story.
**Able to use the Largest Heads available, and still have more room to grow on the bottom end, if something does go wrong!And oh I know how it goes... more power = more problems. The "Weakest-Links" pop up like crazy.
I have spent more time wrenching on my old high 10 second NA Camaro than I did driving the thing.... Grrr! lol
I would really like to see what you decide to go with and how it turns out. I can appreciate the hard work going into that car... Your doing a Great Job with it tho, or so it seems!
-James
10-15-2011, 09:49 PM
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Is it true that you need to run that special coolant if you go with dry sleeves?
10-16-2011, 03:27 PM
#20
ERL sleeves the blocks for 1550, plus shipping there and back. They will sleeve any new Gen IV block up to 4.185 in dry sleeve form, and 4.200 in wet sleeve form.
The LS7 sleeves are weak, and Id recommend using a Sleeved LS7 over a stock LS7, or Sleeved 5.3/6.0.
The LS7 sleeves are weak, and Id recommend using a Sleeved LS7 over a stock LS7, or Sleeved 5.3/6.0.