Oiling Q - Relocating the dry sump tank...
04-01-2012, 01:15 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oiling Q - Relocating the dry sump tank... I'm running an LS7 w a factory GM LS9 oil pump in a 69 Camaro. The LS9 pump supposedly scavenges better. Other oil system mods include Aviad oil pan baffle, Peterson oil and and breather. In my set up, the oil tank usually goes in front of the passenger inner fender which is not ideal for weight distribution and I'd like to relo it somewhere near the trunk.
Do you see a problem w the factory pump moving oil w a longer run to the tank? I'd like to avoid going to an external staged pump if possible.
I'm also gonna check w ARE, Katech and Aviad on Monday.
Do you see a problem w the factory pump moving oil w a longer run to the tank? I'd like to avoid going to an external staged pump if possible.
I'm also gonna check w ARE, Katech and Aviad on Monday.
04-06-2012, 11:07 AM
#4
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
uh huh
04-11-2012, 01:02 AM
#5
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
04-12-2012, 08:17 PM
#6
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Interesting. I raced NASCAR late models for some time, and ran dry sump engines. I used -12 for my three stage pumps, and -16 for my 4 stage. I know that's apples to oranges, but I don't see why the -12 wouldn't work. Thanks for the info.
04-12-2012, 10:00 PM
#7
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You might be very well right and -12 would work. Right now I'm burined in packaging issues and fab...
Feel free to offer your thoughts! Trending Topics
04-14-2012, 02:05 PM
#8
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Yeah flash, I have a lot of stuff that would work for you. Pumps, line, etc. if your interested, Pm me. I'm gonna do some research on your pump, to see what it is capable of. I've been under the hood of Year One's dry sump cars, and they kept their tanks up front, Peterson stuff of course. I'd put her in the back for sure. That's a lot of weight. Is your engine a built unit, or is it a pullout? If its a custom unit, your engine builder should be able to shed some light.
04-16-2012, 08:13 PM
#9
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Scott - So here's the motor:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls7-build.html
I've decided to put the tank up front. I did some more research w guys that are running the same set up as me. One is on his third 'One Lap' race. Turns out, he's got no noticable push from the tank in the front (3600 lb car). Also, this is really a street car w track capabilities so having combustables in the passenger ccompartment is not really a good idea (loosly defined 'trunk = passenger' even w a firewall, but this came from another racer w a similar use vehicle). Also fab was gonna be a biatch - a little cutting on both the rear shock cross member for the lines to run through, and also the front subframe. Both undesireables. Plus, have you priced out XRP -16 fittings lately? About $100 ea. That'd be $800 for my shock crossmember bulkhead alone. Car is painted and I'm trying to get out of fab...
Anyway, that's where it stands right now. Keep going though buddy. I want to hear your thoughts!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls7-build.html
I've decided to put the tank up front. I did some more research w guys that are running the same set up as me. One is on his third 'One Lap' race. Turns out, he's got no noticable push from the tank in the front (3600 lb car). Also, this is really a street car w track capabilities so having combustables in the passenger ccompartment is not really a good idea (loosly defined 'trunk = passenger' even w a firewall, but this came from another racer w a similar use vehicle). Also fab was gonna be a biatch - a little cutting on both the rear shock cross member for the lines to run through, and also the front subframe. Both undesireables. Plus, have you priced out XRP -16 fittings lately? About $100 ea. That'd be $800 for my shock crossmember bulkhead alone. Car is painted and I'm trying to get out of fab...
Anyway, that's where it stands right now. Keep going though buddy. I want to hear your thoughts!
04-16-2012, 10:06 PM
#10
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Very nice! Are those polished cylinders? Yeah, there is no doubt that this stuff can put a serious dent in the wallet. There is a huge second hand market in this stuff, if you are interested in used equipment. Fittings, pans, pumps,etc. I'm not talking about Craig's list stuff here. I bought a $1500 pan from dale jr. For $100 bucks a few years back. It was like new. I've gotten radiators and tanks from the cup guys for pennies. If you want quality, it can be had a lot cheaper. Consider a custom tank, mounted behind your axle UNDER the car. You can easily keep the tank out of the trunk area. Of course there is nothing wrong with putting it up front either. Put it up front for now, and move it out back later. Either way, finish your ride and enjoy it!
04-21-2012, 03:33 AM
#11
GM dry sump tank isn't the lightest but, if you find a Z06 "track rat" who has changed his early Z06 set-up over to something else you should be able to score a tank for under $300 that should do the job for you. As long as your Camaro osn't capable of Z06 track performance, the early 8qt tank should work fine but, GM did change the tanks in 2009 and later cars and added a piggy back tank to increase oil capacity to 10.5qts it is one UGLE looking fix and comes on the GS dry sump motor also which surprised me.
OK I guess you went with aftermarket tank, better performance, but harder to fit in early chassis. Hope you took a look at the oil pump and pan and did some porting work on them, they can use a little clean-up especially the pressure passage from pump chamber to block oil passage and the oil passage into the filter area is really BADLY done by GM. I put a few hours into my LS3 dry sump pan and pump castings.
OK I guess you went with aftermarket tank, better performance, but harder to fit in early chassis. Hope you took a look at the oil pump and pan and did some porting work on them, they can use a little clean-up especially the pressure passage from pump chamber to block oil passage and the oil passage into the filter area is really BADLY done by GM. I put a few hours into my LS3 dry sump pan and pump castings.
Last edited by 427 zeo6; 04-21-2012 at 03:43 AM.
04-21-2012, 01:27 PM
#12
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very nice! Are those polished cylinders? Yeah, there is no doubt that this stuff can put a serious dent in the wallet. There is a huge second hand market in this stuff, if you are interested in used equipment. Fittings, pans, pumps,etc. I'm not talking about Craig's list stuff here. I bought a $1500 pan from dale jr. For $100 bucks a few years back. It was like new. I've gotten radiators and tanks from the cup guys for pennies. If you want quality, it can be had a lot cheaper. Consider a custom tank, mounted behind your axle UNDER the car. You can easily keep the tank out of the trunk area. Of course there is nothing wrong with putting it up front either. Put it up front for now, and move it out back later. Either way, finish your ride and enjoy it!
The builder calls those cylinders 'diamond honed'
GM dry sump tank isn't the lightest but, if you find a Z06 "track rat" who has changed his early Z06 set-up over to something else you should be able to score a tank for under $300 that should do the job for you. As long as your Camaro osn't capable of Z06 track performance, the early 8qt tank should work fine but, GM did change the tanks in 2009 and later cars and added a piggy back tank to increase oil capacity to 10.5qts it is one UGLE looking fix and comes on the GS dry sump motor also which surprised me.
OK I guess you went with aftermarket tank, better performance, but harder to fit in early chassis. Hope you took a look at the oil pump and pan and did some porting work on them, they can use a little clean-up especially the pressure passage from pump chamber to block oil passage and the oil passage into the filter area is really BADLY done by GM. I put a few hours into my LS3 dry sump pan and pump castings.
OK I guess you went with aftermarket tank, better performance, but harder to fit in early chassis. Hope you took a look at the oil pump and pan and did some porting work on them, they can use a little clean-up especially the pressure passage from pump chamber to block oil passage and the oil passage into the filter area is really BADLY done by GM. I put a few hours into my LS3 dry sump pan and pump castings.
I did not port the oil pump but still may while I have access to it. It's an LS9 pump, suppose to scavenge 30% better. Jason @ Katech suggested I sell it and get one of thiers. I'll do one or the other to be on the safe side
Does it ever end?
04-21-2012, 04:45 PM
#13
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Hey Flash, good news, there is a nice ARE complete setup with pump, for sale on here in the classifieds. Seller is kybosh, he wants $850.00. Also saw a couple of Dailey Engineering pans in the classifieds on Pro-Touring.com. I don't see much LS based stuff out of North Carolina...yet.
Does it ever end? I hope not!!!!!!
Does it ever end? I hope not!!!!!!
Last edited by Che70velle; 04-21-2012 at 04:54 PM.
