slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

I am starting to build an LS7, stock block, to put in a 2006 Cadillac CTS-V.

Car has ls2, so all wiring should work. I do not have the stock rotating assembly. I only have the block, and all covers.

I am looking to build a 5-550 rwhp and 500ish rwtq set up for street use, rare drag strip trips.

Looking for input of lightwieght forged rotating assembly. Money is not a big deal, but not spending more than 3-3500 for rot. assy.

keeping stock compression of 11.0:1 and may one day add some small spray but unlikely.

Next cam suggestions, other than call so and so...

And what heads have people been using. I want to keep power range form anbout 2500 to 6500, dont want to have to spin the crap out of th motor, but am willing to go to 7-7500 if cam matched to heads will still give me a good bottom end.

yonerhottlt1

iTrader: (21)

First of all sounds like a nice build you got ahead of you, LS7's are awesome motors that make great power. As far as the rotating assembly goes, there are many options out there but I would personally go with Callies for the crank and rods and Diamond pistons. Now, as far as the cam goes you don't need anything huge to make power with these motors and sounds like you want something that's more driveable anyways. I would definitely go with a custom spec cam in your case since you still have to build the whole motor anyways. And stock redline on an LS7 is already 7,000 rpms out of the factory. Adding in a larger cam and a forged rotating assembly should be able to handle it a lil bit more. Also make sure you have good valvetrain parts in there for stability and longevity. And you can have the stock heads ported which would be cheapest and still give you great results. I believe WCCH would be a good option to have your heads sent out and ported and they cam also match up a cam to the head porting/setup. I think that covers everything lol

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

I would have the block check for thin sleeves and thrust me they will be found, have those re sleeve now and save, the valves on the ls7 heads are trash get hollow stem SS intakes and good brand SS exhaust, i like the I beam connecting rods, be sure they are rated for at list 700 hp, the 4" crank though i been criticized about it i personally use Scot non twisted forging for under $800. it works for me.
For the cam i use Camhelp@guerragroup.com is only $25. to have one spec out for your car, purpose trannie gears car weight, heads, shift points and so on.
Have the heads ported, De burr the sleeves sharp edges at the top of the cylinder bores and the combustion chambers on the heads to stay away from pre ignition. As for the piston rings i don't skimp there, i use boost top rings .022 gap max .018 gap for Napier second and hard oil ring for maximum oil control, and longevity, you make more power longer with a clean plug than with a low tension oil ring and oil wet spark plugs, and who cares for a smoking ls7 any ways.
Be sure to get the same crank relucter wheel like the one you have in your engine now, cause with the wrong one, the new engine will never start.
Good luck with your build.

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

I only have a stock block with the main caps. No Cam, No heads, No rotating assembly, no oil pump, no timing componenets, no valvetrain components, so really cobbling together piece by piece, but I have bought an extra CTS-V oil pan, LS7 valve covers and new LS2 timing cover.

I do believe it will be a Callies crank and rods, price is not bad, but dont know if the Dragonslayer crank and next step up in rods is worth the extra $600 on an N/A, maybe small N2O shot build.

I am torn about having the block sleeved, I can sell it and be almost to a resleeved LS2 block for a lot less than sleeving this one. Where or who can check the block sleeve thickness, I have read they can be thin, but this motor did come out of a maggied Z06 that beat the rod bearings out of it and then was pulled with now wall damage, still can see factory crosshatching in cylinder walls.

I am using a wet sump LS2 style crank so all will bolt right in and plug up, no crank adapters or other bs.

My crank now I think is a 58 X, but will be running the VIN to verify before buying new crank.

Why the SS hollow for intake, weight, arent the hollow ones breaking?

214Chevelle

Everyone loves going with the Callies Compstar stuff. That is their cheap, bottom line stuff. Not knocking it or anyone who uses it, but it's made in China believe it or not. They will tell you the Compstar stuff is outsourced to China. That's how they're enabled to sell it cheaper and therefore they have sold a buttload of it over the years. Why do you think every builder is selling shortblocks, etc with Callies Compstar stuff in it when they advertise or you call for a quote. Then the buyer only hears "Callies" name mentioned and assumes the Callies name is synonymous with quality. Now the Compstar stuff isn't that bad, but at least move up to the Dragonslayer or for the better quality at least buy the Magnum series. Me personally, since you said money isn't an issue and you wanna spend upwards of $3500, go with Crower or Lunati.